Full step nickels
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I have just started collecting and come across a 1962 and 1963 full step nickel. I can easily see the steps and coins look great...thinking about getting them graded..any thoughts? The close up pic is the 1962 the one that shows t full coin is the 1963

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Welcome to the boards, these appear to be proofs and all proofs will have full steps.

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Being proofs they won't be designated as full steps.  It is assumed all are.  People saved thousands of the early 60s mint and proof sets.  Since they were the last of the 90% silver half, quarter and dime.  People stuck them away for decades, then broke up the set and sold the silver.  Leaving lots of nice looking, but low value nickels and pennies.  It would be rare to find one high enough grade to be worth it.  And those don't jump out at me as anything spectacular.

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So really its  a circulated coin that is in good shape and has the full steps that produces its own value since they weren't a mint or proof? Does that make sense?

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Welcome to the forum.

Before you start sending coins in to be graded, I suggest doing some reading and studying to learn about things like the difference between proof and business strike coins, circulated vs mint state, etc. You need to buy a copy of A Guidebook of United States Coins, also known as the Redbook. The information in it is well worth the price.

Don't get in a rush to buy a bunch of coins without first gaining some knowledge. It will save you some money and heartache.

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Partly, although an uncirculated coin from a mint set may or may not have full steps.  Depends on how strong the strike was, also how new the die was.  That's why the full steps designation adds value.  Because conditions had to be just right for the steps to fully fill out in the minting process.  And then be kept out of circ so the steps aren't worn off.

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On 9/14/2020 at 11:21 PM, Modwriter said:

If you can afford to get these nickels graded and put into holders for preservation, do it. 

I'm sorry but this is poor advice, spending $40 to "preserve" a $1 coin is not a good use of a collectors budget.  The rev of the coin in the photos has spots and a fingerprint showing in the photo and the acids in human skin oils tend to etch the delicate proof surfaces very quickly.  If the op wants better protection than the 2X2 the coin is in now then an inexpensive plastic holder like a $.60 Air-Tite holder that I have linked is a much better way to protect the coin without spending lots.

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On 9/14/2020 at 10:22 PM, Dtkingsley said:

Is it worth it to have them graded?

No.

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3 hours ago, Coinbuf said:

I'm sorry but this is poor advice, spending $40 to "preserve" a $1 coin is not a good use of a collectors budget.  The rev of the coin in the photos has spots and a fingerprint showing in the photo and the acids in human skin oils tend to etch the delicate proof surfaces very quickly.  If the op wants better protection than the 2X2 the coin is in now then an inexpensive plastic holder like a $.60 Air-Tite holder that I have linked is a much better way to protect the coin without spending lots.

If I grade a coin MS myself, I submit it. So far so good. Eight coins that I have submitted so far have graded MS64 to MS68. Plus 3 that have sentimental value to me and will grade AU or lower. I do have budgetary limits.

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45 minutes ago, Modwriter said:

If I grade a coin MS myself, I submit it. So far so good. Eight coins that I have submitted so far have graded MS64 to MS68. Plus 3 that have sentimental value to me and will grade AU or lower. I do have budgetary limits.

What you choose to do is certainly your business, but in this case your advice is unwise from a financial standpoint.  To even have a chance at breaking even on the cost to submit the op's coin would need to grade at least 67UC, and it will not grade anywhere near that high.

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4 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

What you choose to do is certainly your business, but in this case your advice is unwise from a financial standpoint.  To even have a chance at breaking even on the cost to submit the op's coin would need to grade at least 67UC, and it will not grade anywhere near that high.

Without a pic of the obverse it is hard for me to put a grade on it.

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Just now, Modwriter said:

Without a pic of the obverse it is hard for me to put a grade on it.

In that case you should defiantly not be giving advise on submitting it.  And in almost every case I would want to see both sides, but its easy to tell that this coin is not high grade or a UC coin. 

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So here is the obverse...I dont plan on having them graded. I would have should i be getting a different reaction and possibly worth some cha ching... i do enjoy the topic that it was and the one it is becoming. And understanding the whys and why nots of grading. Obviously some grade for sentimental reasons...others to solidify their collection. And I am sure there are players that do this to try and flip coins for some cash...i am leaning towards flipping some to fund my collecting.

 

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2 hours ago, Coinbuf said:

In that case you should defiantly not be giving advise on submitting it.  And in almost every case I would want to see both sides, but its easy to tell that this coin is not high grade or a UC coin. 

Opinions are like individual_without_enough_empathys, everyone has one. I would submit the 62 at MS63 and hope for a higher grade. Do you have a 62 that is graded lower perhaps?

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I am a beginner and these are 2 nickels that I got in a lot that I bought. But would that put the value high enough to make it worth it? Seems like I might just break even.....like I said i an new and enjoy the discussion because that us how I learn.

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Look at the page linked below. It is the NGC Coin Explorer page for the 1962 proof Jefferson. Scroll down to the prices listed, and use the "PF," PF CA," and "PF UC" tabs to search past auction prices.  You can also go to the page for the 1963 by looking above the words JEFFERSON FIVE CENTS, where it says "1963 5c PF." You will find that, in order for it to be financially prudent to have your coins graded, they will have to grade PF69 Ultra Cam. I don't think either of your coins will qualify. Neither looks cameo on both sides, to me. Enjoy them as they are.

Link

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39 minutes ago, Modwriter said:

Opinions are like individual_without_enough_empathys, everyone has one. I would submit the 62 at MS63 and hope for a higher grade. Do you have a 62 that is graded lower perhaps?

Awww did somebody get their feelings hurt.  lol  If you need hand holding and reassurance your talking to the wrong guy, I'm honest and direct no safe space here.  As I said if you want to throw money away on pocket change that is just fine go right ahead nobody cares, but advising others to do the same foolish thing is irresponsible.  I sure hope your not a financial adviser. 

 

14 minutes ago, Dtkingsley said:

I am a beginner and these are 2 nickels that I got in a lot that I bought. But would that put the value high enough to make it worth it? Seems like I might just break even.....like I said i an new and enjoy the discussion because that us how I learn.

Several members other than myself have already said the same as I have, no these are not worth submitting.  You will spend $60 in grading/fees/shipping and end up with two coins worth $11 ($1 for the coin and $10 in plastic).  The math is really straight forward, however if you prefer to follow the bad advice of one individual then certainly go for it and submit those two.  Please report back and let us know how you do with your grades.  I suggest you do some homework first tho, so because I'm in a helpful mood (just ask modwriter) here is a link to a completed ebay auction for a 1962 proof PCGS graded PF67 that sold for $6.50.  There are others that sold for more but most sold right around the range I said of $10-$12.

ebay

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Hello all and hello kingsley, welcome to the forum. I would like to add something to this thread. I am an avid Lincoln collector and have been for years but really just got into serious collecting and examining coins late last year. There is a lot of great and excellent advice from the professionals on this forum. I have really gotten to know my coins from the overwhelming help from the pros here, thank you all!! 

With that said, I really started trying to learn the grading process of the coins I have found. I have used numerous website pictures and other grading services on the web to compare my finds with AU and MS grades posted online. Even though I have been an interested collector for awhile, I FINALLY attended my first coin and expo show this past weekend and man was it an eye opener!!!!!  Wow!!

What I truly believed to be an MS 66 or possibly a 67 coin I had found.... I quickly realized it was maybe an AU 59 or MS 60 at best!!! Huge learning curve to say the least.   There is nothing better than holding a CERTIFIED slabbed coin by either NGC or PCGS and truly seeing what a high graded coin looks like!! I was truly blown away and have an entirely new perspective and respect for what high grade coins actually look like with “coin in hand” as opposed to looking at pictures on the internet. 
 

By all means I would purchase the literature previously mentioned in this thread. But, in order to get a true visual perspective of what Mint State Graded Coins look like, I would strongly suggest you attend a reputable coin show on your area. Hope this helps. 

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1 hour ago, Coinbuf said:

Awww did somebody get their feelings hurt.  lol  If you need hand holding and reassurance your talking to the wrong guy, I'm honest and direct no safe space here.  As I said if you want to throw money away on pocket change that is just fine go right ahead nobody cares, but advising others to do the same foolish thing is irresponsible.  I sure hope your not a financial adviser. 

No feelings hurt here coinbuf. Have a nice day!😊

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