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New collector

26 posts in this topic

Welcome to numismatics.

Mk123 is right. Here's why: even people who don't know much about a specific coin can easily look it up, but condition and authenticity are everything, and they can only get that from sharp photos, obverse and reverse. Weight and diameter are also worthwhile.

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You definitely have something there. Please treat it with care. Hold it with gloved hands by the edge, and be sure to only place on a padded surface. It is metal, but the proof surface is delicate and can easily be scratched,  lowering the value.

Question: is the edge plain, or does it appear to be corded? On the reverse, is the cap atop the pole actuallly touching the A, or is it just close? That information will help with the identification.

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Did you black out the ceertificate number in the image or is it blacked out on the certificate itself?  The coin is very nice, but the certificate itself is a rarely seen item as well.

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8 hours ago, Conder101 said:

Did you black out the ceertificate number in the image or is it blacked out on the certificate itself?  The coin is very nice, but the certificate itself is a rarely seen item as well.

I was hoping you would see this. Can you explain the difference between this certificate and the Anacs split grade photo certificates?

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13 hours ago, Conder101 said:

Did you black out the ceertificate number in the image or is it blacked out on the certificate itself?  The coin is very nice, but the certificate itself is a rarely seen item as well.

I blacked it out on the photo. Not sure is that is supposed to be private information or If it didn’t matter?

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21 hours ago, Just Bob said:

You definitely have something there. Please treat it with care. Hold it with gloved hands by the edge, and be sure to only place on a padded surface. It is metal, but the proof surface is delicate and can easily be scratched,  lowering the value.

Question: is the edge plain, or does it appear to be corded? On the reverse, is the cap atop the pole actuallly touching the A, or is it just close? That information will help with the identification.

The edge is corded, and the cap is touthing the A

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There are at least three "corded" or "engrailed " edge varieties of this copper, which is listed on your paperwork as Baker3. (That refers to the numbering system given to these pieces by W.S. Baker, who wrote Metallic Portraits of Washington in 1885.) As far as I can determine this variety is the most common one,  being considered as a URS-8 or 9 (between 65 and 250 known to exist - Still pretty scarce), according to the Whitman Encyclopedia of Colonial and Early  American Coins, written by Q.David Bowers. He gives it the catalog number W-10360. (It is possible that it is W-10370, the bronzed copper version minted from the same die pair, but ANAAB makes no mention of this on your certificate,  so I assume it is the copper version.) As far as value, that would depend on its condition, which is hard for me to determine from the pictures, but there are a few examples graded between Pr 63 and Pr65 right now on Ebay, with asking prices from $650 to $1100. If I were to put a price on yours for insurance purposes, I would value it somewhere between $800 and  $1000.

The paperwork at the end of your post looks like a reference book page showing an example of your piece.

This is a very interesting piece that you have. Having the accompanying documentation is icing on the cake.Thanks for sharing.

 

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1 hour ago, Just Bob said:

There are at least three "corded" or "engrailed " edge varieties of this copper, which is listed on your paperwork as Baker3. (That refers to the numbering system given to these pieces by W.S. Baker, who wrote Metallic Portraits of Washington in 1885.) As far as I can determine this variety is the most common one,  being considered as a URS-8 or 9 (between 65 and 250 known to exist - Still pretty scarce), according to the Whitman Encyclopedia of Colonial and Early  American Coins, written by Q.David Bowers. He gives it the catalog number W-10360. (It is possible that it is W-10370, the bronzed copper version minted from the same die pair, but ANAAB makes no mention of this on your certificate,  so I assume it is the copper version.) As far as value, that would depend on its condition, which is hard for me to determine from the pictures, but there are a few examples graded between Pr 63 and Pr65 right now on Ebay, with asking prices from $650 to $1100. If I were to put a price on yours for insurance purposes, I would value it somewhere between $800 and  $1000.

The paperwork at the end of your post looks like a reference book page showing an example of your piece.

This is a very interesting piece that you have. Having the accompanying documentation is icing on the cake.Thanks for sharing.

 

Thank you for the info! That is super awesome, I didn’t know the paperwork was anything special. 

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On ‎9‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 12:15 AM, Firewoman35 said:

I recently inherited a coin collection and decided to keep it, but I was wanting to know the value of some of the items I have. Anyone know what a 1783 certified authentic AB Washington piece restrike is worth?

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome.gif

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Yes Firewoman --- Welcome to the forum!!  That is a pretty SWEET coin and it will be a joy to see some more of them.

Sorry for your loss and at the same time I am glad that you joined up here to learn about your new collection pieces.

Thanks for sharing(thumbsu

Rick

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On 9/2/2018 at 9:23 AM, Just Bob said:

Can you explain the difference between this certificate and the Anacs split grade photo certificates?

ANACS and ANAAB were two different companies operating at different times but both with the same owner.  When the ANA sold ANACS to Amos Press in 1990 part of the deal was a non-competition clause that kept the ANA from starting another grading service for a given length of time.  When that ended the ANA began ANAAB.  This was NOT a grading service, it was a return to what ANACS had been originally, an authentication company.  Coins could be submitted and they would be authenticated with identifying photocertificates being issued.  The grading services at that time were almost exclusively geared toward US coins.  They didn't do world, ancient or hammered coins, or tokens or medals.  But the ANA had access to experts in many fields and they accepted just about anything.  Over the life of the company they issued four different varieties of photocertificates, they never used slabs.

Two things lead to the eventual downfall of the company. One for the most part every one was more focused on the grade of their coins not the authenticity.  Since it was assumed that getting a grade also brought an authenticity guarantee along with it why not just have your coins graded and get both at once.  Two since the ANA's experts were not in-house, and were not employed by the ANA, coins would have to be shipped out and back, the experts worked at their own leisure, and experts for various field kept coming and going.  That often resulted  in LONG delays before coins would be returned.  These two factors resulted in ever decreasing submissions, and ANAAB finally closed their doors in Nov of 2002.

Since everyone was chasing grades while ANAAB was active there were never a lot of submissions and many of the coins have since been slabbed with the old ceertificates being discarded.  Today the certificates are rarely seen.  I believe I only have an example of one of the varieties in my reference collection.

Did that help?

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On 9/9/2018 at 2:10 AM, Conder101 said:

ANACS and ANAAB were two different companies operating at different times but both with the same owner.  When the ANA sold ANACS to Amos Press in 1990 part of the deal was a non-competition clause that kept the ANA from starting another grading service for a given length of time.  When that ended the ANA began ANAAB.  This was NOT a grading service, it was a return to what ANACS had been originally, an authentication company.  Coins could be submitted and they would be authenticated with identifying photocertificates being issued.  The grading services at that time were almost exclusively geared toward US coins.  They didn't do world, ancient or hammered coins, or tokens or medals.  But the ANA had access to experts in many fields and they accepted just about anything.  Over the life of the company they issued four different varieties of photocertificates, they never used slabs.

Two things lead to the eventual downfall of the company. One for the most part every one was more focused on the grade of their coins not the authenticity.  Since it was assumed that getting a grade also brought an authenticity guarantee along with it why not just have your coins graded and get both at once.  Two since the ANA's experts were not in-house, and were not employed by the ANA, coins would have to be shipped out and back, the experts worked at their own leisure, and experts for various field kept coming and going.  That often resulted  in LONG delays before coins would be returned.  These two factors resulted in ever decreasing submissions, and ANAAB finally closed their doors in Nov of 2002.

Since everyone was chasing grades while ANAAB was active there were never a lot of submissions and many of the coins have since been slabbed with the old ceertificates being discarded.  Today the certificates are rarely seen.  I believe I only have an example of one of the varieties in my reference collection.

Did that help?

That’s really awesome to know, thank you!

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On 9/8/2018 at 11:23 PM, Mk123 said:

firewoman, how about other pics of the other coins in the collection!

It is kind of difficult to take pictures of these coins because they are in sealed plastic cases. Anyone know what these are? This is just one, there are several more. 

DBD16E80-5A54-48B3-A768-D469FEBFD6F7.jpeg

BA91C6B6-654C-42B0-A2A5-5E1996BAE597.jpeg

2203214F-BB9A-414F-A874-2476C7E8304D.jpeg

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There is no way I can keep this whole collection, even though I would love to. We have like three books of the silver three cent pieces alone.  There are so many that I really don’t have any place to store them all. Where would you all recommend to sell some of them? I definitely don’t want to just go to a pawn shop or some place like that

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I would start by listing them on the Marketplace Forum, or perhaps on Ebay. If you don't want to list them on Ebay yourself, you might be able to find someone on here who would be willing to sell them for you on consignment. I definitely would not recommend a pawn shop. If you have a local coin dealer, you might take a book by there, and get some opinions or possibly an offer from them.

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