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Photographing Slabbed Gem Proof Coins- Your thoughts?

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I have been working with some of my remaining proof coinage over the weekend. I don't seem to have too much trouble with the Deep/Ultra Cameo coins. These coins here were shot raw and they were much easier to photograph.

 

These two Deep/Ultra Cameos are both 1984-S coins. One is a Jefferson Nickel and the other is a Kennedy Half Dollar. I shot both coins from directly overhead with no angle to the coins or camera. I also used high angle lighting using 2 CFL Daylight bulbs. I think the images turned out quite nicely and they represent the coin very well. The Jefferson Nickel has some very nice golden toning that came out very nicely in the photographs.

 

1984-SJeffPFUCFullCoin_zpsba2608e1.png

1984-SKennedyPFUCFullCoin_zps62b05a32.png

 

I don't have any Cameo Proofs to work with as of now. And I only have two Non-Cameo Proofs to work with, one of which is a Jefferson Nickel that has an excellent Purple tone to it. This is what I have so far. The top image is the coin being angled into the light. The bottom image is the coin being shot from directly overhead with no coin/camera angle.

 

1962JeffPF67FullCoin_zpsa6648301.png

 

The trouble I am having with this particular coin is that it is in a slab(NGC PF67) and capturing the toning on the coin is quite difficult. I have tried several different light sources and lighting angles. I was able to angle the coin into the light and capture it that way and I like the look of it. It really shows off the mirrored fields and the devices quite well. But I would really love to be able to capture the great toning in this coin. Anyone have any suggestions or tips that I could use or try? Any and all suggestions are welcomed! Thanks!

 

 

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Mr. Goodman's book, Chapter 13, page 106.

 

You need to tilt the slab and use a higher aperture "so the depth of focus is better able to handle the tilted coin".

 

He says to try a slightly lower contrast lighting. It will lower color intensity but will display the toning across the whole coin.

 

Here's a toned, Non Cameo, Canadian Proof. Left image is straight on - Right is tilted

 

DSC_0148-horz.jpg

 

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Thanks Mike! I've read Mark Goodman's book from cover to cover. It has a wealth of information but it doesnt get as detailed or descriptive as I thought it would. I guess a fella can't give away all his secrets! I have tried higher apertures, up to F18, but have not gotten the results that I am looking for. The 1962 Jefferson was shot at F14 and it had the best overall look from the others that I had taken. I tried many different shutter speeds and other settings as well. I'm sure there is something that I am missing. I just haven't found it yet! I'm working on it though!

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I was in my spare room, where I used to have my camera/copystand set-up before I moved it into another room, and I found some GE Reveal Bulbs that I forgot I had. I think that was the missing piece I was needing. Swapped my bulbs out and this is what I've got so far. It's just an Obverse picture for now, but both sides are toned like this. The purple color is a shade darker than what is in the picture though. I think I may need a little less diffusion??

 

1962JeffPF67Obv_zps0c1f3dc8.png

 

 

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I'm starting to get a feel for what your toned proof nickel looks like in hand!

 

Your Ultra Cameo Images look very nice from here. The reverse of the nickel is very sharp!

 

Mr. Goodman also talks a little bit about editing software being needed for these types of shots. Using some contrast in particular. Not to "juice" just to accurately represent the coin.

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That's exactly what I had to do with this coin once I started to process the photos. There was some slab glare due to the tilt, so I shot it a hair underexposed with a little slower shutter speed. I used the contrast adjustment just enough to take out the glare in the slab and then I stopped. I always try to accurately represent the coin in my photos but this one does look a little "juiced" in my opinion. The toning is very thick and the dark purple color makes this coin very difficult to photograph! If this coin had some cameo to it, I think I could get some better results.

 

I really like the Deep/Ultra Cameo proofs. I don't have to change my setup much when I want to photgraph them. With this non-cameo proof here, I had to rearrange everything! But it's the only way to learn what works and what doesn't!

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