$100,000 Budget - What coins should I buy?

[Eagle1]

Hello Fellow Board Members,

 

Over the past three years I have had the pleasure of reading many of your posts. It has been very educational, enlightening, and entertaining. I remain in awe of the knowledge and good nature of the people here on the boards, and of course those working at NGC. I enjoy this hobby very much, I can spend hours at my desk immersed in the Numismatist, Numismatic News or a book from one of the hobby's many good authors. (or until my wife reaches her tolerance level, whichever comes first) But, it is those of you who contribute to the boards that make this hobby come to life - Thank you!

 

Several months ago I made the decision to make a significant purchase of coins during 2004. Well, significant for me anyway. I set for myself the following parameters;

 

1) The coin or coins will be kept for a minimum of 10 years.

2) The coin or coins must be such that could be re-sold easily when the time comes.

3) The coin or coins must be such that could be re-sold at no less than what I paid.

 

I would certainly like to see an appreciation in value at the end of the 10 years, but that is only a secondary issue. These are for the pure enjoyment of the hobby.

 

The decision to set aside the money was easy, but I have found that deciding what to buy is the hard part. Four months have gone by and I still can't decide what would make the most sense. So, I thought I would turn to the Boards and ask what you think.

 

What are your suggestions? I would really like to hear from you. What coin or coins would you suggest I purchase and why?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

[Tradedollarnut]

Jim: There are very few coins that will meet your parameter of "The coin or coins must be such that could be re-sold at no less than what I paid". Coins are like a new car - when you drive it off the lot you lose 20%. Too much depends on the timing of when you sell to guarantee anything. However, if you hold the coins for 10 years plus any extra time to reach an up market, then you stand a better chance of realizing a gain.

 

With that said, I would recommend purchasing eye appealing coins in the MS or PF64 grade that have one line or tick too many to be a 65 under today's standards. These are the type of coins that one day might very well become the next grade up and therefore will cost you a premium in today's market. However, my experience has shown me that the premium paid is usually very inexpensive compared to the quality received. Also, I would only buy coins that jump up and cause you to say "wow" - this way if you do lose money in the long run, you at least have 10 years worth of numismatic enjoyment to show for it!

 

Good luck to you!

[Here]

I had/have an almost identical situation. The first thing I did was make a mistake right off the bat. I chased quality and rarity in CC Morgans with a goal of having some NGC MS 68s!! Well, the first pile of money needed a second pile of money so I came up with a five group plan

 

1. Morgans: I picked a common date and mint mark that had a really good strike.

This way I can concentrate on picking up an occassional MS67 and

have even managed a MS68! I could have never done that with CCs.

 

2. Core Coin: This is the category I have for chasing quality and rarity. This is my

study coin. I have started out with a raw AU55 (yes, uncleaned from

a reputable dealer-I already learned that mistake-bunches) and plan

to slowly trade up and only have one at any given time. I picked 20

cent silver pieces.

 

3. Stuff: No matter what plan of attack I've come up with I always seem to

have "stuff" float by. So, the easiest thing for me to do was to make

a seperate group. i.e. Canadian Hologram sets, 1982 50 cent Wash

pfs, etc. any type singles for fun. Easiest way not to end up with this

group is not to buy any stuff.

 

I know I said five groups, but I just stuffed groups 4 and 5 in the Stuff group to make it easier. I just thought of that! Why have 3 groups of stuff, when stuff is stuff. I don't know if this helps, but it was fun writing it. Jerry

[BAJJERFAN]

Well for the coins that would seem to fit criteria 2 and 3 I would recommend you go to your bank and get $100,000 worth of quarters!!

[Eagle1]

Tradedollarnut,

 

Yes, I learned that lesson with my Bullion sets. I have a complete set of $1 ASEs and $50 AGEs in both NGC MS70 and NGC PF70 UCAM. Combined, this is one of only two possible complete sets (today anyway), but I think it would be tough to breakeven if I sold them right now. I truly enjoy the coins, and I appreciate the dealers who helped me to assemble them, so I really don't pay much attention to their market value.

 

The only other series that I feel that way about are the first few years (1795 to 1800) of the early US gold pieces, the $2.5, $5 and $10's (the silver dollars too). But I think those in MS are a little out of my league right now.

 

As a novice, I still am hoping to find that there are some classic coins out there that historically have a market (can be easily re-sold) and hold their value (over a long period of time, understanding the ebb and flow of the market prices). I ask myself, what about a MS63 or MS 65 High Relief Double Eagle, or a red 1909-s VDB or 1856 Flying Eagle penny? They were highly touted when I was a child and still seem to make the "highlight" page of the auction houses.

 

Is it just smoke and mirrors? I have been around long enough in the hobby not to buy in to all of the auction house hype of huge gains, but I have to admit that you and Bajerfan are scaring me a bit. I am not looking for the $1,000 coin that will turn in to $1,000,000 down the road, I'm just looking for ones that will hold their own over time. Aren't there any coins out there that fit that bill, or are most of them truly a losing proposition?

 

In regard to cherry picking the MS/PF 64's, that sounds like a very good approach and I will give that some thought once I settle on what to buy. By the way, your Legend set is incredible. I have thought about you a few times while I wade through the coin markets here in China (I will be here for the next two years). I see a lot of trade dollars, but very few with chop marks so I doubt their authenticity. I wish I had a better eye to tell the real ones from the fakes.

 

Thanks again for your comments and best wishes, Jim

[Eagle1]

Bugleboycoins,

 

I know exactly what you mean by "Stuff." I have a pile of it too, it just sort of appears one day. Its usually something I never thought of before, but for some reason it seems right, then the next thing you know you end up with a huge pile of "Stuff." It's hard to get rid of too, just can't seem to pull trigger, so it gets moved around a lot. I bet some of my "stuff" has been moved around far more that it ever was when it was out in circulation.

 

I really like your "Core Coin" strategy. Thank you for sharing that with me. I think I will use that approach once I determine what my study coin will be. Good luck with your 20 cent silver pieces.

 

Thanks again for your time and comments, Jim

[Eagle1]

Bajjerfan,

 

My apologies for the incorrect spelling of your name in my reply to Tradedollarnut (I left out a J).

 

In regard to your suggestion about the quarters, my head absolutely agrees with you. My heart, however, is still holding on to that naive and romantic notion I had when I was a child and collected my first Franklin half dollar, being that coin collecting was a hobby in which you could enjoy and lose nothing but time.

 

I have put a note in my calendar to PM you at the end of the year. I will let you know which concedes defeat to the other, my head or my heart.

 

Thanks, Jim

[JD-migration]

Several months ago I made the decision to make a significant purchase of coins during 2004. Well, significant for me anyway. I set for myself the following parameters;

 

1) The coin or coins will be kept for a minimum of 10 years.

2) The coin or coins must be such that could be re-sold easily when the time comes.

3) The coin or coins must be such that could be re-sold at no less than what I paid.

 

I would certainly like to see an appreciation in value at the end of the 10 years, but that is only a secondary issue. These are for the pure enjoyment of the hobby.

 

Here's what I think based on my personal experience.

 

1) Not every certified coin is as good as the grade on the holder, so learn to tell the difference, i.e. eye appeal, & technical merit. Having said that, buy only NGC or PCGS certified coins. You stand a much better chance of buying what you expected. When it comes time to sell, your coins will not be subject to the usual level of buyer's criticism of grade.

 

2) Buy what you like, and collect it in a manner you enjoy, BUT buy coins in pivotal grades, i.e. review price guides and choose a grade that is just under a huge jump in price to the next higher grade. Demand will usually be higher at this grade level and thus more appreciation. As a reference, John Highfill's book US Silver Dollar Encyclopedia covers this topic for each date/mint.

 

3) When you select coins for 2) above, I suggest you avoid the Registry Set syndrome and choose coins that are truely scarce & rare, not just "rare in grade "such as an 1880-S Morgan Dollar in MS69, whereas a desireable, semi-key, pivotal grade coin might be an 1893CC in MS64. Even though the 1893-O increases multiples more from MS64 to MS65, the price tag on the MS64 is too high. Your readily marketable requirement would suggest that you should buy most (but not all) coins in the core buyers range of $1,000 to $5,000 area. Sure there are buyers for more expensive coins, but they number far fewer. Another benefit to this is typifed in todays market. A much higher percentage gain has occurred for an 1889CC MS60 than the 1893S in AU50, although both are good investment coins. Why? I think it's due to affordability by core buyers.

 

Just my 2 cents worth. Whatever you choose to do, there's been some good advice given by others to help you in your decision. Enjoy the experience.

[gmarguli]

Some very good advice, especially TDN's "liner" coin suggestion.

 

Just a few points that you need to think about:

 

Picking a time frame can be very risky. You say at least 10 years. Are you going to hold firm to that? What happens if the market shoots up? At year 8 the coins could be worth a fortune. At year 9+ they could crash in value. Lots of people are still waiting to break even on their 1989 purchases. For many they should be able to do it in the year 2067.

 

If you want preservation of capital, I suggest a nice T-bill. Coins are not a good investment vehicle, but like everything else some have good profit potential. I would avoid the modern coins since there is not enough of a history to help predict where they will be 10 years from now. When the registry hype fades what will happen to these coins?

 

Key dates are usually a better investment than common coins. However, many key dates have shot up in value over the past few years. They might not be a good buy right now.

 

In order to spread out your risk I would go for a type-set approach. Find some nice classic coins that you like - since you may be owning them for a lot longer than 10 years - and pick nice examples. They don't have to be super grade coins, just nice examples. A nice VF Chain cent with a smooth planchet. An eye appealing Trade Dollar dripping with luster, but not in that money grade, a PQ MS64 instead. A Bust dollar in NICE AU - not a market graded washed out choice VF in an AU slab. This is the type of stuff that will be easiest to sell in the future.

 

Avoid the common stuff like common date Indian cents in MS65RD. Every dealer seems to have these in stock. Avoid wonder grade coins. Sure an MS68 Morgan looks really nice, but is it worth 20X an MS67?

[michael]

go to www.pqcoins.com

 

click on the eastern collection

 

then if you want to see larger photos click on the smaller photos these are coins the type of coins you should be buying!!

 

coins that are amazing in the eye appeal coins that ARE extraspecial IN EXTRAORDINARY qualities category with the "look" cant tell you what the "look" is but show me a coin and i will tell you if it has the "look" or not

 

and also value priced value does not mean cheap either

 

it means to pay for something that is priced fairly for what it is at the time with no hype/promotion or rabid short term demand that has risen the price up to where the coin was priced at lots more 2x 3x etc. what it was 5 years ago with some sort of contrived inflated demand due to some sort of crazy circumstances like the plastic around the coin or other factors like adding coins to a public venue that makes the coin more in demand so it drives up prices

 

 

if you want me to give you certian specific coins to be on the lookout for that are currently great vlaue coins and that in my opinion have monster potential with at least some to no downside again in my opinion that also in my opinion at the worst case scenerio has neutral profit

 

of course it goes without saying if we have some sort of huge act of God disaster or other huge man made event like a depression or some other bad man made then your coins will be worth little as most other things will

 

but i am assuming a stable world and economy as per my first above statements

 

 

michael

[michael]

proof three cent nickels that are gem proof 65 and higher that are deep/ultra cameo coins and i mean they are all there no brainer coins with tremendous eye appeal if the coin has non cloudy non hazy mirrors then a great really rarfe coin to buy monster of ocurse the 1870's deep/ultra cameo coins all the better plus plus also totally original prioof 66 and higher three cent nicks that are totally ice blue color with some rose coloring too that have the right "which means they are original mint tissue toned coins stored many decades in the origina mint tissue paper and also gem proof 65 and higher usually they are more likely to be 66 and 67 grades even m ore the better!!!!! i have maybe seen close to 10 that looked like this in 35 years or so also if the coin is still strongly cameoed or deep /ultra cameo all the better agauin with amazing eye appeal and the last of the proof three cent nicks would be again gem proof 65 and higher wildly colored coins which are like really rare if you are a dealer on the lookout for these coins and you go to every show and auction you might see maybe a few a year to two years these are really rare coins

 

why should you buy these coins? they are totally undetrvlaued and usually not seen or understood by even dealers they are unpopular coins as they are supposedly common as most you see are just plain ugly! if you can buy them even at a premiun you got a coin that hasno where to go but up!! and at worst case scenerio you will break even in my opinion again my opinion

 

michael

 

even nice proof 65 and even better 66 67 proof three cent nicks with strong cameoes and great eye appeal are cheap ultra good coins to buy for the above rreasons also

 

the best of the best the cream so to speak is waht i first wrote about in this post

 

 

if you go to www.pqcoins.com and click on the eastwrn collection you can see two proof three cent nicks with the look and the scans barley dio justice to the coins they need to be in hand sight seen to be fully understood and appreciated

[michael]

proof 65 and higher two cent pieces and indian head cents that are brown and red brown that have monster great eye appeal with deep mirrors and/or are definately cameoed but will not get the designation due to the colors on the coin which is okie but still a strong contrast between the devices and the fields

 

coins that have great colors and deep mirrors and have incredible eye appeal

 

these coins are just undervalued and underapprecaited and beautiful yo0u just do not see such coins 8n the marketplace on a regular basis and even deawletrs do not understand such coins as they do not usually see them so they are usually priced fairly not cheap but fair and have not seen such monthly apprecaition as other series especially so the proof two cent pieces

 

orf course a plus would be the 1864 and 1865 which usually have dull mirrors and are subdues with the mirrors also

 

the later two cent pieces usually come nicer but as long as the coin is all there be it proof two cent or indian cent proof red brown red then buy it!

 

but most importanylt they must have the :look: cant tell you what that is but show it to me and i will tell you if it gots the look

 

here is a coin with the look hard to show from scans though as in person the coin is 1000 times better

 

 

 

michael

[michael]

proof 65 and proof 66 red and i mean full red 1909 matte proof lincoln cent

 

currently a so called esoteric coin that is underapprecaited

 

the KEY TO THESE COINS ARE gem and red !!!!!!!!!!!

 

the 1909 is the underappreaited coin of the matte proofs it is just a sexy date too the first year! also with i think much pressure with the up and coming 100 year historic anniversary of the minting of the lincoln cent the current longest running series and no other series even comes close!! most likely never will either on topof being extremely beautiful it is really RARE why you ASK

 

WELL GO TRY to buy in an ngc/pcgs holder a true gem proof65 red even better 66 red that is totally eye appealling full red no spots stains even color good luck!!

 

this coin in my opinion dynomite!

 

an issue this date 1909 that usually comes drab dull spotted uneven coloring striated surfaces etc. and of course lots are red brown and brown and these coins are not like no braoner proof coins to a novice like deeply mirrored and cameoed proof coins but man oh man go try to find a solid proof 66 red matte proof 1909 that is solid red and no spots stains fantastic eye appeal and even color and even though mellowed ib bolor as they should be the way they where stored is none the less full red this is a no brainer special proof coin that can be seen as such as a proof by anyone novice and advanced collector specialist alike!!

 

now go try to find one that is as described as above good luck they are out there and reasonably priced as not in rabid demand but this will change and especially moreso in 2009 and overall with the right "look" a great undervalued underapprecaited coin to won and again a sexy first date this 1909

 

michael

[michael]

here is in my opinion another great coin series to buy

 

proof 65 and higher post 1900 deep/ultra cameo proof barber quarters

 

these coins are really rare downright rare and as long as the coin has great eye appeal and no haze spots stains cloudiness i like it

 

most all of the time with these coins even pre 1900 and most all of the time post 1900 they are close to someitmes deep/ultra cameo reverses with the obverses mildly cameoed and even if solid cameo still not deep/ultra cameo on the obverse no way no how

 

to find a post 1900 barber quarter in proof that is a solid ultra cameo reverse and obverse

 

is well amazing to say the least

 

and evenmoreso after 1907

 

a great extra special coin to own as the barbers in proof gem and higher aew really low pops comapired to other quarter proof series that are earlier and if ultra cameo to boot wild and totally underapprecaited and undervalued besides that the coin just looks STUNNING

 

in my opinion

 

michael

[michael]

proof barber dimes post 1910 thAT are again gem proof and higher strongly cameoed and of course ultra cameoed even though i do not believe there are many in fact really few ultra cameos

 

but any strongly cameoed plus plus proof barber dime would be a great coin to own

 

just read the above post comments with the proof barber quarters and add the comments to that post and put it on this post with regards to proof barber dimes gem and higher strongly cameoed plus plus post 1910

 

and also awesome looking coins

 

 

michael

[michael]

totally undervalued totallt underappreacited non jyped as it is impossible to do as the pops are so low and totally non preforming coins the last many years

 

barber halves in gem ms65 but totally original thick skinned white coins never dipped and with great eye appeal i guess ms66 too but they must really be scarce i have never seen one as such

 

i do not even care if it is the so called common date which it is lets say 1909 go try to find a true gem ms65 1909 barber half with a thick original skin that is crusty crunchy crinkley and bascially white or any date like this for that matter

 

wow rare the highest degree and magnitude of rarity and evenmoreso valuewise

 

 

michael

 

 

 

[EZ_E]

Eagle 1,

 

This is an excellent thread that you have started! There has been great input with which I whole heartedly agree. You would be wise to heed to their advice because this is a vicious market!

 

Michael, geat input!

 

As Michael and GMARGULI stated, types are a great buy right now. Why buy something that is being hyped at the present? This has just served to sky-rocket the prices. Try to avoid hype.

 

Key dates are always a good buy but they have risen so drastically in prices lately then I would be hesitant to buy them right now.

 

I'll tell you something that I am convinced is a no-brainer, winner of a coin: the 1997 matte Jefferson nickel. There were only 25,000 coins minted and at $200, I feel that there is no place to go but up. I own one and plan on purchasing some more for an investment.

 

The 1994 Jefferson matte and the 1997 (or is it '98?) Kennedy half in matte are also very low minted coins. If these slots are ever placed inside of the Whitman albums, et al, then they will take off big time. Just look at the 1995 W proof ASE. Crazy, ridiculous price! This is now over a $3000 coin and there were almost 31,000 of them minted. I think that the three matte issues of the 1990's have tremendous potential.

 

And, once again, nice types and you probably can't go wrong.

 

Best of luck!

[BAJJERFAN]

It seems the one thing that you would want is liquidity which means that whatever is popular today will likely be popular in 10 years hence, tho no one can predict for sure if prices will be strong or what will be of interest. If you stick with the old standbys like Walkers, IHC's Lincolns and of course the Morgans you likely won't go wrong. Key dates, semi-key dates and of course the better dates would be the ones you want. Just my 2 cents worth.

[Eagle1]

JD,

 

I think you bring two very good points to my attention. I have never really looked at price guides in the manner that you suggest, looking for the jump in price between grades. I will spend some time this week doing so. Second is your suggestion of a "Core Buyer's Range" between $1000 and $5,000. That makes a great deal of sense and I will bear this in mind.

 

Thank you for sharing your thoughts! Jim

[Eagle1]

Greg,

 

Yes, I too have some coins (Liberty Nickels purchased in the 70's) that appear to be lifers. (I guess it's not officially a loss until you actually sell it!).

 

You bring up a good point about Market cycle. Is there a publication out there that tracks history (5, 10 or more) of various classic dates / types? Such as 1907 $20 High Relief’s, is there such a graph? If so, I would like to see it. If not, I suppose I could piece something together through old "Prices Realized" sheets from Bowers & Merena. I will look farther in to this.

 

I am beginning to think along the lines of a type set as you mentioned. I will kick this around awhile too.

 

Thanks (for this and all the other contributions you make to the Board)

 

Jim

[Eagle1]

EZ_E,

 

Thanks - I am very happy I started this thread, I am learning a great deal.

 

I think your advice on avoiding the hype is very good. It also serves to point out what might be the best approach for a new collector to begin. Too many times a new collector (I've done it myself) gets excited about the hobby and rushes out to acquire a mass of coins, only to find himself or herself saying "what have I done" the next morning. It seems to me that the point you are making is that it’s best to take a long term approach not just in holding your coins but also in acquiring them as well. Avoid the hype, buy what is reasonably priced at the time, and be patient and wait for the auction house darlings to become more reasonable as the lime light fades.

 

Very good point!

 

It's funny that you mention the 1994 Matte Jefferson and the 1998 (I think) Matte Kennedy. I have been telling myself the same thing. Maybe I have found my first two coins Anyone second the nomination?

 

Thanks - Jim

[Eagle1]

BAJJERFAN,

 

Yes, I agree with you. I think you are right that it would be better to stick with key dates, spread out over various types, instead of putting together a date set of one particular series. Thanks for your comments, I do appreciate them. Jim

[Eagle1]

michael,

 

Just a quick note for now, I did not want you to think I was ignoring your post. You have some great comments here and I am still going through them. I will respond to them in more detail tomorrow. Thanks again for now. Jim

[chinook]

I believe this site may help you with the charts you are looking for. greysheet graphs

 

 

And welcome to the boards!

[Eagle1]

Chinook,

 

A couple weeks ago I ordered an on-line Grey Sheet that gave me current values, but I did not see the graphs. This is exactly what I was looking for and I really appreciate you pointing me in the right direction. This will keep me busy for the next few days. Thanks again! Jim

[michael]

jim eagle one you can go to coin world online if you are a subscriber and they have a coin prices section and every coin you lookup has a price graph!

 

and it is not necessary to comment on what i wrote on here to your question

 

you where a collector asking for some opinions from some other collectors and i just gave you my two cents worth on what i believe in....... in answer to your question

you take what you want to and leave the rest

 

but let me know what you deside to collect just pick something thst you like is a great value and is also special with extraordinary eye appeal and properly graded

 

then you are basically protected in case the market standards change and the grading services change that way a great really nice coin is always that and you do not have to worry about the plastic around the coin if you got a monster extra special eye appealing quality coin in the holder will always be a good coin no matter what type of plastic is around the coin if any at all

 

if you got coins in plastic where if you break the coin out of the holder and the coin value drops more than 35% you are in big trouble

 

the best coins to buy are coins worth as much in or out of the holder if not more

 

 

michael

 

michael

[michael]

now other coins that are great are monster colored or original thick skinned white ms67 seated dimes

 

but they would need to have really amazing eye appal to boot and again be original

 

and earlier date proof dimes seated like 1860 to 1865 in gem proof or higher colored with thick original skins to them!

 

the 1862 would be a killer date to get!!

 

same for a nice proof 64 or higher but they get monster expensive higher than 64 strongly cameoed proof seated 1868 quarter like the 1862 proof dime both are the lowest pops at the services in terms of gem proof and higher proof strikings

 

the 1901 02 03 04 barber quarters in mintstare ms65 and higher would be super undervalued great coins too underrated really much so!! but the couins would need to be blast lustre and neatly original toned would be good to but this is how they come just make sure you pick one with great toning with booming lustre comnig through the toning!

 

and of course these are not common they seem to be at all the shows with multiples available but go find one like i will describe here and they are really super uncommon coins as such

 

proof 66++++/67 strongly cameoed on the cusp of deep cameo pcgs 1880's seated quarters that are totally blast white but with no cloudiness haze crisp clean mirrors stains or ghost white patches of dipped out white blotches all over the coin

 

with early commems go try to find a neatly ms67 muiltcolored oregon half this would be a really good coin to own!!

 

a monster prooflike ms66++++/67 new rochelle that is all there what an amzing coin to own and approx. half that are certified as PL are NOT PL just made it one or both sides do not count no matter what the holder says

 

any classic proof half cent from after 1833 that is a no question proof that has mirrors is double struck and is rb and original not this pinkish dipped [!@#%^&^] and also has little to no spots would be a really great monster coin to own in proof 65 or better if IF there is such a thing also with great eye appeal as best as can be for a coin like this

 

any satin proof 1936 buff nick would be a real treat to own a one date type coin the only satin proof of the proof buffs after 1935 proof 67 and if it has great color all the better wild!

 

any really monster cameoed toned and/or colored proof67 or higher liberty is a totally undervalued coin with room to grow and of course with these coins and allthe rest as per the above all need to be extraordinary amazing eye appeal and good value prices too not crazy priced but within reason even if really high reason

 

michael

[BAJJERFAN]

Suppose that you were to put together a date sete of Morgans. A higher grade set likely couldn't be done today for $100 K. A lower grade set would not be compatible with your goals. Even in a better set more than half of the coins could be considered as fillers for the set; even in grades of 65 and 66. Common date coins in 65 and 66 are almost always readily available and mite never be worth a premium 10 years down the road.

[Eagle1]

Michael,

 

I get Coin World delivered, but considering they have the graphs that you mention perhaps I will get an on-line subscription. Thanks.

 

I know it is impossible to describe "The Look" but you have actually done a very good job. Your comments along with the visual aides on your web page have helped me to understand a little about what you mean. I fully agree with you, I have looked a quite a few high grade coins but some just don't seem to grab you. Technically they may be all there, but you don't get that "wow" factor as you look at them. Finding a coin that technically is where you want it to be is much easier than finding one that also has 'the look. - Very, very good point.

 

Jim

[Eagle1]

BAJJERFAN,

 

I like the Morgans too and I agree that a very high grade date set could not be done today with what I have. Another concern I have is that it seems everyone likes the Morgans and I wonder if the "Hype" that TDN, JD, EZ-E and Gmarguli is not in full play right now.

 

It seems like kind of a balancing act. On one had its a popular coin series and it has been for quite a while, so perhaps it will be down the road as well (Easy to Sell). The common dates are not too expensive but the rare ones are out of sight (hype maybe?).

 

Perhaps with the Morgans it might make sense not to do a date set, but to pick good dates based on the "Jump" in price between grades. What do you think?

 

Jim