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Found 3 results

  1. Okay, I may have screwed up a bit. I have bought a few of the coins for my Washington album already slabbed and have had to liberate them for my album. The primary reason for this is that a few of the pricier ones I was able to get at a very good price in the grades I wanted and as a plus I got the added insurance with the purchase of knowing they weren't cleaned or had issues I couldn't see with the seller's pictures. I am down to just the final 3 or 4 holes in my Washington album. The final slots are not particularly challenging to fill, I just was looking for nicer detailed coins at a good price. Some of these coins I found in BU grade for little above melt cost and others I found in XF or even VF+ quality for some lower mintage issues. The final 4 coins needed are the 1940-D, 1947-S, 51-S and 52-S, none of which are rare or even particularly scarce--they just happen to be the last 4 holes by random chance. Much of the album was filled with some strategy behind it. I started by buying 2 incomplete albums and taking the decent coins and adding to my singular set. Next came a process of buying the P, D and S together of the same year which got me some great 3 BU runs with some and 3 circulated coins with others. Whittling away any group dates I could ( the prices are significantly better when purchasing 3 coins for an $8-10 cost per coin as opposed to the asking prices of $15-25 often for single slot fillers.) I finally have ended with these four. I tried hunting for the 51-S and 52-S together but there aren't any groups of these 2 dates. I did find some larger lots which I might purchase and can resell the 51 P& D and 52 P & D and make my purchase for the S mint coins a good bargain. My "mess up" was with the 47-S. I couldn't find any group lots of this issue and started looking for just nice single coins at reasonable prices. Most raw BU coins were in the $20 range listed which is about the pricelist costs of $17 for a 63 and $28 for a 64---but low and behold I threw out a wild flyer bid of $30 for an NGC MS66 that was attracting my eye. I actually won the MS66 for an unbelievable $24.50 --I was pretty excited to get a $60 coin for under $25 but when it arrived there was a bit of a conundrum. The coin is almost too nice to break out and stick in an album. If I don't crack it out I'll have to buy another and then what to do with a single slabbed Washington quarter? I already have way too many coins that aren't a part of any set but were just too attractive and well-priced to pass up, so I will eventually crack it out and plug the hole in my album--but for now, I'm just leaving it on my desk and enjoying it.... Here's some pics--It is more of a personal taste thing and I know many here won't see it the way I do, as I love the peachy/rose blush overall on the obverse and the reverse has blotches of really vibrant emerald greens, turquoise and purples...a fun coin but it may skew the "balance" of that page in my album. Oh well, if I have to upgrade a few of the surrounding coins on the page to give the overall look a better blend then that is what I'll do...happy hunting everyone......
  2. Well my Mercury Dime album set has been a lot of fun to assemble. I have ( for the most part) avoided my usual trap of assembling a set and then "just" upgrading this coin and that coin for another with a little more luster/detail/tone etc etc. I have upgraded about 3 coins of the teens and early 1920's for coins that have a touch less wear. For Page 1 of my Whitman, the general goal is full rims and dates--Page 2 I'm looking for some fasces details/lines and Page 3 ( the late 1930's and the 1940's years) I set AU/BU standards. I just purchased a nicely detailed and problem free 1921-D. The coin is in an NGC slab so I'll have to crack it out for my album. I usually am averse to doing this but since the coin is very solid for the grade and problem free, I have no issue with liberating the dime. Of course that leaves me with just the 1916-D. I have $600 set aside in paypal. I had some unexpected expenses recently but managed to raise the funds for the repairs and left the remainder for the "coin budget." I'm hoping to find a higher detailed G6 or VG8 in that range ( or a little more), which would fit nicely with the min standards for the coins on that page of the album. I never really liked having a bunch of VF/XF quality coins on a page and then a lone G6 which stands out like an ugly eyesore ( even if the G6 is more pricey than all of the rest.) As a side note, I left my Indian cent registry listing up for now although I also created a Custom Set for the series. This enables me to continue to work on the set and have TONS more options for quality coins. I'm not gonna beat a dead horse but there are probably 9 PCGS Indian Cents for every NGC coin and as a collector, to limit myself to a particular plastic holder in lieu of collecting quality coins would be silly. I recently found an 1890 cent MS64 BN that fits my strict parameters and also has the look I love so this leaves me with only the 1892 and 1894 to finish my little indian short set. Happy hunting everyone---collectors adapt and the journals will always be a useful place for me to archive my collecting over the years ( although 10 years of my past journals have sadly disappeared since my registry name and chat board names were sl8ightly different--very disheartening.)
  3. After some recent frustrations with registry sets slots, I have decided to take a hiatus from Grading coins, submissions, NGC vs PCGS and even removed almost all of my Registry "competitive" sets. The frustration has long been building with the politics in the hobby and not just with trying to get through the myriad of confusion associated with collecting any modern series and their innumerable annual issues. Whether it is SP's listed as MS or as PF's, multiple slots for the same coin but with different names, incomprehensible points assignments ( 2000 points for some $50 coins and 300 points for some $1000 coins) or Pop report/census that only even lists about 25% of an entire series--the fun in registry participation has been sapped away. However my love of the hobby remains. This is why I have gone back to my roots--album collecting and raw coins. With my coin cabinet and chests with their velvet lined drawers allowing for better viewing, displaying and the weighted feel as I hold the coin in hand, I wonder why I waited so long. I think it was probably half because I enjoyed the sets listed on a page where I could add photos and had easy access to see which slots were needed no matter where I was. The other reason I stayed was the camaraderie among several members here that I PM on occasion, buy/sell/trade with and have been messaging with for years. Most recently I found an old Whitman Mercury dime album with about 12 coins in it. What fun the past few weeks have been !! Although not as challenging as the old days when I tried filling albums with just the selection from the 2 local coin stores--it is still a lot of fun searching for a certain look, a minimum standard ( full reverse rims and some vertical fasces lines) and hedging on some coins to hold out for a little nicer or a few bucks cheaper. I have re-discovered the thrill of passing up a $12 AU coin which I almost bought, and then later uncovering a $10 BU coin instead--saved $2 and a nicer coin, WIN ! The only downside is that I'll have to learn some improved restraint. As opposed to slab collecting where I may buy a pricey, graded coin once or twice a month- with the album collecting, I can add dozens of nice, quality coins for the same or less the cost. My most recent exciting purchase was a very nice set of Merc BU coins with "several toned" coins from 1940-1945 all PDS complete. The listing was vague and the picture so-so of a single, torn out page from a thumb buster. I won the "page" of toners for just $30 ( barely more than melt). Once in hand- WOW what excitement to find that most had glorious colorful tones and 75% were BU. The 1945 even has strong separation of the midline although not complete. I picked through and have mixed and matched with some "pristine white" coins and interspersed several of the toned beauties ( the rest I carefully removed and put in flips in my coin chest to enjoy.) Unfortunately, I am down to the 1916-D and the 1921 and 21-D to complete the set. Most of the teens and early 20's are in F/VF quality and all of the 1935-1945 coins in AU or BU. I feel at liberty to change parameters or grade limits per page in the album as I please so I've kept every coin pretty cheap to buy. I've never collected a shield or liberty nickel set and think I might start that next with mostly "readable date" and " problem-free" coins in lower grades but with honest wear. After that maybe a Morgan "short set album of XF/AU grades--who knows it sure is a lot less complex now and no disappointments for bodybags, perplexing grading results, massive shipping both ways or 17 to 20% buyers fees! Some photos of my recent assemblage which has reinvigorated my collecting passion. Happy Hunting E1......