jackson64

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About jackson64

  • Boards Title
    The Post-man always rings twice. Uhm... ring ring?

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  • Occupation
    health
  • Hobbies
    Sailing/coins/anything done at, on, or near the water
  • Location
    Chesapeake Bay Shore

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  1. You make an excellent point which I have groused about-- the 7070 for all of its variety does not go far enough! The half dollar type sets include separate slots for the 1873/74 arrows coins ( as do the other seated coinage issues).. also I would have liked to have holes for certain series that technically have had more modest changes that are delineated within the series-- examples would be the various types of 3 cent silver coins and "type 2" and "type 3" standing liberty quarter slots--among others. But it is still a blast with always something to search for when you have this kind of variety.
  2. I'm really enjoying building my first serious type-set. In the past I have made a Half Dollar type set and a 5c type set but both pale in comparison to the fun and increased knowledge I'm getting with my 7070 set. I have gotten some bust coins for half dime, dime and quarters which I've never owned. I also added several of the varieties ( so far) of the half cents and large cents. I've never owned a Seated Dollar or 3-cent silver so I've had fun reading up on them, figuring out which coins I can afford in higher grades and possibly instead opt for a lower grade but of a scarce date. This last slot decision- high grade common date or lower grade of a tougher date- is what I faced with the 20c piece. There were several dates that I could have bought in nice AU or even patiently waited for a low-BU deal, but in the end I opted for the Carson City issue in F15. Two main reasons directed my choice. First was, I wanted the set to be a bit more encompassing than just AU/BU quality coins. I actually enjoy a 150 year old coin that somehow has honest wear but keeps a nice patina and has made it through the decades without any dings, scratches or tampering. Secondly, I wanted at least 1 issue from Philly, Denver San Fran New Orleans and Carson City. Since I already added my "O" mint issue via the Morgan slot, the 20c piece gave me one of the few remaining chances for a Carson City coin in the set. The 1875 and 75-S both run about the same value in AU50 as the 75-CC does in F/VF so my path was clear- find a 1875-CC, a 140+ year old coin with just 133,000 minted, in untampered, natural patina, undamaged/dinged/scuffed/scratched/hairlined/cleaned F+ condition... Just the kind of hunt I love. Well I found a nice one-- I would have liked a bit more obverse, lettering detail but overall I really like the tale this worn old coin tells so elegantly... Happy Hunting everyone
  3. You may not like the answer but I believe that if you sent in PCGS to NGC or NGC to PCGS as a crossover then it really is about ego with the graders. I have about 50% same or upgrade with ANACS small slabs ( quite a few actually go up) but the big 2 almost universally downgrade 75% of the time. As an aside, I forget who did it but a collector/member tried an experiment a few years ago and posted the process on the chat boards/forums here. He sent in 20 ASE's and received MS69 and 70's on all 20 coins-- he documented each coin and photographed the process as he cracked out each coin and re-submitted them ( line by line and numbered on the submission form for accuracy).. the result? 13 of the 20 coins changed grades!-- with 6 former 69's becoming 70's and 7 70's dropping to 69's... I believe personally that as well as coins are minted and packaged today that 69 or 70 are indistinguishable 90% of the time. Another story to finish-- I had a 1917-D reverse Walking Liberty Half graded as MS62 and felt it was nicer ( plus the price jumped, at the time, from $1500 in MS62 to over $2000 in 63).. I sent that sucker in TWICE for grade review and the coin was just sent back to me at the same grade with an invoice. I was so frustrated I ended up selling it to a dealer friend of mine for cash and a St Gaudens generic. Long story short, he sent it in again to NGC but this time cracked out of the PCGS holder -- he got an MS64 grade which was over $3500 back then. Never was sure whether it was because of his dealer status or the fact it was not in a PCGS holder but he got a significant 2 grade jump where I just got a charge on my debit card. I have a discerning eye for Walkers and have 3 coins that I KNOW are undergraded or at least would be an easy + if sent by a dealer, but I will never waste the money again on regrades or crossovers.-- Crackouts are another story however, I have had some hit/miss luck with those ( but then the risk of a coin in a current NGC slab coming back as ungradeable is a big risk too as I have had about a half dozen NGC crackouts come back in a bodybag as "artificially toned" or "cleaned" when the coin was untouched from slab to flip to grader)
  4. Thanks everyone-- has been on my office desk all week and I've picked it up a dozen times at least and just soaked it in-- love a nice burnished silver coin's luster.
  5. I feel the same way about silver and gold bullion ! For now I'm still adding the occasional roll of ASE's, maple leafs etc and like to spend under $20 an ounce. The next true upward bounce might finish off my bullion acquisitions if it's back to $500+ a roll. For now, while I'm a buyer and 10+ years away from retirement, let coins and PM's stay affordable!
  6. Well I barely got it under the wire but I remembered to utilize my $150 submission credit for my Premium Membership before it expired this year. I decided to use it to just add the final 5 silver $1 coins for my BU Bahamas sets. The Bahamas BU silver series running from 1966 through 1973 has long been a favorite side-collection of mine. I had already completed the 50c coins with the dancing Marlin and the silver dollar sized $2 coins with the Flamingo couple in front of a setting sun ( both gorgeous designs to my eye) but had not completed the silver $1 series with the Conch shell lying among the coral bed. I guess that I'll go ahead and add the large $5 coins soon ( over 1.2 ASW per coin) since I actually own all of them already from the 2-dozen or so mint sets I have been using to assemble top sets with. Every coin in my 3 completed series/sets has come via my own submissions and crossed-finger grading. Props to NGC for recognizing the variance in mints, finish and packaging for various years of these Bahamian issues and nailing the appropriate grading criteria. To start, the 1966, 1969 and 1970 coins were minted at The Royal Mint and each year had some packaging issues. The 1966 coins tended to bounce around in their mint-issued snap box and although BU, often have quite a few contact marks and scuffs. The 1969 coins are a bit of a disaster as they were in an ill-fitting, hard-plastic single, flat piece that allowed considerable friction on the coins even though remaining in an unopened mint packaging. The 1970 coins were placed in the snap box and managed to stay in place in their assigned concavity better than the 1966 coins, but the case was lined with that faux-velvet, red flocking which often comes loose of the case and attaches to the coins leaving residue and spots. To give an idea of how much the variance in just packaging affects grades of the Bahamian Uncirculated Sets: my $1 conch series has grades of: 1969- MS64, 1966- MS65, 1971-MS66, 1973- MS67, 1970 MS68 and 1972- MS69.. I couldn't have done that if I tried. In 1971 the Bahamas switched to the Franklin Mint for their national coinage and the quality is amazing. First of all, the 1971-73 Uncirculated silver coins were done in a matte finish ( long before the burnished look became in vogue for ASE collectors.) This matte finish truly is stunning with the cartwheel effect it plays in unison with the silver and light dancing around the coin as it's tilted in hand. A slight and often unnoticed design change also occurred on the obverse in 1971- the nation began referring to itself on its coinage as The Commonwealth of The Bahamas instead of the prior coin's inscriptions of "Bahamas Islands. " On July 10th, 1973 the Bahamas officially became an independent nation ( I also own the $10 silver Bahamas coin from 1973 with their Independence day and sailing ship- a large 1.5 ounce silver coin.) So back to the original title of this journal-- along with the remaining dollar coins to complete that series, I had a wonderful $2 Flamingo coin from 1972 that I believed would easily be an upgrade over my existing MS66 for that year. There have now been 199 Bahamas $2 uncirculated coins submitted to NGC from the 1966 thru 73 series and I am proud to say, we now have a SINGLE Perfect MS70 in the books and encapsulated to stay that way. Without further ramblings-- here is the first picture of this scintillating beauty. Best of luck with your submissions my friends and as always, happy hunting........
  7. While some have gone up-- ( under $100 and moderns) many of the classic series have plummeted. My Walker set, for example, has dropped in its book value from around $40k to slightly over $25k ( before my recent upgrade pushed it back to near 30k). If you use NGC resources page for price history, you'll see that buffs, mercs, franklins, commems(really huge drop from 10+ years ago), Morgans etc etc-- all down at least 25% from values 10 years ago. The exceptions are the series key dates and of course distinct PQ coins still draw premiums. It will always be a case of " a coin is worth what someone is willing to pay for it." As our hobby becomes somewhat gentrified and inflation and purchasing power of the dollar keep driving us to less discretionary funds for hobbies, I foresee an even longer slide to lower values for our holdings. Keep it as a hobby is my advice-- between buyers costs, sellers fees, paypal, shipping and the dollar's decline in value.. there are far better investments than collector grade coins. Sorry to be a negative nelly--I'm happy as a collector and will continue to do so, but I don't lie to myself and think that my collections are going to rocket up in value and be a nest egg for my retirement or progeny.
  8. well done! So what's your next objective? Any sets in the works?
  9. jackson64

    Summertime Fun

    Great post-- and kudos to the local dealer for such great contributions/prizes for your club. I guess this is another downside to living in the sticks, 50 miles from the nearest larger city/town.. not enough folks for a club activity that size.
  10. I think we must remember that the average Ebay seller is looking at around 10% costs for shipping, seller fees and paypal fees... so $350 seems about right when we consider melt at $300 PLUS $30 in fees placing the coin/fees at $330 for the seller. If he sells at $325 then once fees are factored, he might even be selling at below melt! I think the crazy ones are the ones who sell common date gold at the Auction Houses. Take an average 2016 MS69 AGE 1 ounce-- I see this type of coin at various auctions often ( Heritage, Great Collections, Stacks etc). Currently at $1500 or so as bullion....... Seller fees are often 10% or more but let's just say 10%.. that means someone would need to bid $1650 to break even for the seller ( obtain bullion base value). What really happens is most auction houses (GC being excepted) have a 15 to 20% buyer's fee also. So buyer's are not going to bid above bullion for common date gold, not in conditional rarity. They will factor the buyer's fee in their bids.... so a 1 ounce common gold coin may sell for $200-300 less than melt at these auctions ( happens all the time, look at auction histories for proof)... In the end, selling a gold coin at auction might see a $1300 winning bid, another $130 deducted for seller/consignment fee and the random other costs to ship to seller etc...The consignor ends up with $1150 for a $1500 bullion coin and the Auction house profits $300+ for simply receiving shipment and mailing to a new owner.... PS: Gary, I have lots of gold and silver bullion that I have bought that is still below my costs. Always expected it as long-term holdings but the blatant manipulation of bullion prices is frustrating. Paper shorts and vast paper gold vs physical gold/silver has been used for over a decade to keep the worthless dollar as king. I have to even admit to having 100 silver eagles tucked away that I spent $3000 on ! Gonna be awhile before I recoup those losses...
  11. Thanks everyone--especially to all of my fellow Walkerfans ( CBC and Bob included)-- I know she is a little soft on the reverse strike but I felt the eye appeal, luster and miniscule amount of ticks made it a solid 67 overall.... anyone want to buy a beautiful MS66 and try for a crackout shot at 67 or 66+?..
  12. I'm not going to make this journal overly wordy. It has been, amazingly, over a year since I last posted a journal entry. I have been busy collecting though. I won't go through all of my activities of the past 12+ months but I will say that I am building, piece by piece, a highly-discriminatory 70/70 type set. The type set building has been the most fun I've had in a while for collecting as I get to acquire examples of so many different coins, have lots of hunting opportunities and even have bought my first coins of certain series that I've ever owned! On to the point-- I mostly presumed that I had completed my Walking Liberty Short Set as high quality as I could achieve without spending above my pay grade for coins in MS67 for the 41-S, 42-S or 44-S. I have swapped out coins when I found equal grade coins but a newer example was of superior strike or eye-appeal. The one exception was that I have been looking for a 1947-D in MS67 to replace my MS66 - as an aside, I truly believe that my MS66 could/should be an MS67- especially after the 67's I've passed over the past 3 years. I guess I could get a "+" symbol on it and a CAC sticker and double its value but I rarely go to such effort for + marks or to validate my own discernment. So I'm perusing Seated Dollars on ebay and just as a whim I decide to check for the 47-D MS67. There are several there ranging from attractive $3,000+ coins mediocre MS67 white blah coins for near $2000 and a few uglier examples around $1500. BUT LO and BEHOLD! The most attractive of the 6 or 7 examples is also one of the cheaper! Under $2000 for the eye appeal and dazzling toner that I'd hoped to complete the set with. After 3 years, ( over 10 years total to finish this 20 coin set) I finally acquired the last piece....what a great feeling for a collector.....
  13. I used topical coins with my granddaughter--- I found Tanzanian coins with butterflies and also several Spiderman coins.. ( did her geography report on Tanzania and loves butterflies and Spiderman). There are lots of super hero coins out there if he likes them
  14. PS: if you think it will help jump starting his interest--I have some of the old, brass game tokens in one of my stashes....PM me an address and I'll shoot some various tokens your way ( might even have some old transit tokens from different cities in these mish mash boxes too-- could be nice transitional pieces from game tokens toward coins.............
  15. Great story--thanks for sharing this with us................