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    Sailing/coins/anything done at, on, or near the water
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    Chesapeake Bay Shore

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  1. Cone top and steel beer cans from old, extinct breweries and brands-- some of the artwork on these early cans is wonderful.. Fortunately, the tack room in the stables stays mostly closed and weather resistant so I can display them there. My wife draws the line with my collecting when it comes to empty beer cans lining the walls in the house .. They are nice pieces of Americana
  2. PCGS price guide for a 41-D MS67 FSB is $140...
  3. rons.. nicely toned 1941-D at great collections--currently just $52 for this MS67FB.. bet it goes for < $200
  4. Agreed.. I have a Sacagawea proof set-- I always run a year or more behind but then remember I have them and often- with patience- even get the PF69DCAM date I need for around $10. Rev-- I also have a set of these 2 oz coins. Since I only buy 1 each and keep them raw, I usually get them when released ( the 2020 White Lion coin was purchased a few months ago.) I actually saw the opposite happen with this series though, as the Falcon and a few other Beasts actually kept getting higher in price as time passed.
  5. Ray said, "I am not belittling PCGS or collectors that have them but you have to agree the grades they place on coins is not of the same quality as an NGC grade." Actually, I don't have to agree-- and neither do a large percentage of decades-long numismatists. And even though PCGS coins sell at a premium, often, above NGC coins of same grade/series, I would not agree that PCGS grading is superior either. I don't know what series you collect, but it would be a HUGE sacrifice to collect many of the classic series coins without buying PCGS coins. First, there are some series that appear to be almost 80%+ PCGS holdered, so if you are limited to selecting from the 20% of NGC slabs, then the quality of your collection suffers. Many series and dates may only have a few dozen coins THAT EXIST in the grade range in accordance with one's budget- and PCGS standards WERE actually higher for many years. The bottom line is, I am an NGC registry collector and send my submissions to NGC because of the service and quick returns ( relatively) however I am not a "rah rah" type who has to be close-minded into joining a red team or blue team and then talking smack about the other. As Walker fan says-- there are beauties and dogs in both holders (NGC had its dog years too and I could post pics of dozens of ugly, harshly-cleaned, over-graded coins in either slab.) It is good for the registry ( especially as a tool for collectors to organize, photo, list, show-off collections) to have the best coins-- now with PCGS holders allowed again, I can hunt for the nicest coin I can find to fill a slot--not just the nicest NGC holdered coin available. I must question-- should a true numismatist have such blind corporate/brand loyalty? Does the RahRah Ford guy refuse his uncle's classic vette from the inheritance? Wrong label?.. not even an apt comparison because the RahRah coin guy is being loyal to a plastic holder and not the actual coins..... I also noticed a marked drop in registry participation after NGC precluded PCGS graded coins -- large drops in the chat rooms, journals and waning interest in general participation even if coins were still being collected ( myself included).
  6. I find those labels annoying actually. I have a few yearly sets and I like the holders to match ( for the most part.).. Having a complete set of Burnished ASE's SP70's but one of them is in a weird blue labeled holder does not give the set the orderly feel I like...…. ( I also have a complete Proof Ike dollar set but 2 of the labels are "photo labels" and the coins are in the holders backwards. I've written posts about the annoyance of some foreign coin sets where 25 of 30 coins put the queen's bust on the label side but 4 or 5 coins have the reverse on the label side???? Makes no sense.....
  7. Maybe one or two over the past 15 years with USPS, and those were coins under $50 I thought I'd risk with first class...….. As an aside, the Flat Rate small box was just $4 a few years ago and now is almost $8! Couple that with the ebay sales tax and a combined 10% on seller's fees and paypal and coin collecting's "surcharges" seem to be skyrocketing.
  8. That coin looks so much more defined-- from fingers, mountains to simple lettering ( has "depth").. they did a fantastic job and kudos to you for preserving such a fine coin.
  9. You make an excellent point which I have groused about-- the 7070 for all of its variety does not go far enough! The half dollar type sets include separate slots for the 1873/74 arrows coins ( as do the other seated coinage issues).. also I would have liked to have holes for certain series that technically have had more modest changes that are delineated within the series-- examples would be the various types of 3 cent silver coins and "type 2" and "type 3" standing liberty quarter slots--among others. But it is still a blast with always something to search for when you have this kind of variety.
  10. I'm really enjoying building my first serious type-set. In the past I have made a Half Dollar type set and a 5c type set but both pale in comparison to the fun and increased knowledge I'm getting with my 7070 set. I have gotten some bust coins for half dime, dime and quarters which I've never owned. I also added several of the varieties ( so far) of the half cents and large cents. I've never owned a Seated Dollar or 3-cent silver so I've had fun reading up on them, figuring out which coins I can afford in higher grades and possibly instead opt for a lower grade but of a scarce date. This last slot decision- high grade common date or lower grade of a tougher date- is what I faced with the 20c piece. There were several dates that I could have bought in nice AU or even patiently waited for a low-BU deal, but in the end I opted for the Carson City issue in F15. Two main reasons directed my choice. First was, I wanted the set to be a bit more encompassing than just AU/BU quality coins. I actually enjoy a 150 year old coin that somehow has honest wear but keeps a nice patina and has made it through the decades without any dings, scratches or tampering. Secondly, I wanted at least 1 issue from Philly, Denver San Fran New Orleans and Carson City. Since I already added my "O" mint issue via the Morgan slot, the 20c piece gave me one of the few remaining chances for a Carson City coin in the set. The 1875 and 75-S both run about the same value in AU50 as the 75-CC does in F/VF so my path was clear- find a 1875-CC, a 140+ year old coin with just 133,000 minted, in untampered, natural patina, undamaged/dinged/scuffed/scratched/hairlined/cleaned F+ condition... Just the kind of hunt I love. Well I found a nice one-- I would have liked a bit more obverse, lettering detail but overall I really like the tale this worn old coin tells so elegantly... Happy Hunting everyone
  11. You may not like the answer but I believe that if you sent in PCGS to NGC or NGC to PCGS as a crossover then it really is about ego with the graders. I have about 50% same or upgrade with ANACS small slabs ( quite a few actually go up) but the big 2 almost universally downgrade 75% of the time. As an aside, I forget who did it but a collector/member tried an experiment a few years ago and posted the process on the chat boards/forums here. He sent in 20 ASE's and received MS69 and 70's on all 20 coins-- he documented each coin and photographed the process as he cracked out each coin and re-submitted them ( line by line and numbered on the submission form for accuracy).. the result? 13 of the 20 coins changed grades!-- with 6 former 69's becoming 70's and 7 70's dropping to 69's... I believe personally that as well as coins are minted and packaged today that 69 or 70 are indistinguishable 90% of the time. Another story to finish-- I had a 1917-D reverse Walking Liberty Half graded as MS62 and felt it was nicer ( plus the price jumped, at the time, from $1500 in MS62 to over $2000 in 63).. I sent that sucker in TWICE for grade review and the coin was just sent back to me at the same grade with an invoice. I was so frustrated I ended up selling it to a dealer friend of mine for cash and a St Gaudens generic. Long story short, he sent it in again to NGC but this time cracked out of the PCGS holder -- he got an MS64 grade which was over $3500 back then. Never was sure whether it was because of his dealer status or the fact it was not in a PCGS holder but he got a significant 2 grade jump where I just got a charge on my debit card. I have a discerning eye for Walkers and have 3 coins that I KNOW are undergraded or at least would be an easy + if sent by a dealer, but I will never waste the money again on regrades or crossovers.-- Crackouts are another story however, I have had some hit/miss luck with those ( but then the risk of a coin in a current NGC slab coming back as ungradeable is a big risk too as I have had about a half dozen NGC crackouts come back in a bodybag as "artificially toned" or "cleaned" when the coin was untouched from slab to flip to grader)
  12. Thanks everyone-- has been on my office desk all week and I've picked it up a dozen times at least and just soaked it in-- love a nice burnished silver coin's luster.
  13. I feel the same way about silver and gold bullion ! For now I'm still adding the occasional roll of ASE's, maple leafs etc and like to spend under $20 an ounce. The next true upward bounce might finish off my bullion acquisitions if it's back to $500+ a roll. For now, while I'm a buyer and 10+ years away from retirement, let coins and PM's stay affordable!
  14. Well I barely got it under the wire but I remembered to utilize my $150 submission credit for my Premium Membership before it expired this year. I decided to use it to just add the final 5 silver $1 coins for my BU Bahamas sets. The Bahamas BU silver series running from 1966 through 1973 has long been a favorite side-collection of mine. I had already completed the 50c coins with the dancing Marlin and the silver dollar sized $2 coins with the Flamingo couple in front of a setting sun ( both gorgeous designs to my eye) but had not completed the silver $1 series with the Conch shell lying among the coral bed. I guess that I'll go ahead and add the large $5 coins soon ( over 1.2 ASW per coin) since I actually own all of them already from the 2-dozen or so mint sets I have been using to assemble top sets with. Every coin in my 3 completed series/sets has come via my own submissions and crossed-finger grading. Props to NGC for recognizing the variance in mints, finish and packaging for various years of these Bahamian issues and nailing the appropriate grading criteria. To start, the 1966, 1969 and 1970 coins were minted at The Royal Mint and each year had some packaging issues. The 1966 coins tended to bounce around in their mint-issued snap box and although BU, often have quite a few contact marks and scuffs. The 1969 coins are a bit of a disaster as they were in an ill-fitting, hard-plastic single, flat piece that allowed considerable friction on the coins even though remaining in an unopened mint packaging. The 1970 coins were placed in the snap box and managed to stay in place in their assigned concavity better than the 1966 coins, but the case was lined with that faux-velvet, red flocking which often comes loose of the case and attaches to the coins leaving residue and spots. To give an idea of how much the variance in just packaging affects grades of the Bahamian Uncirculated Sets: my $1 conch series has grades of: 1969- MS64, 1966- MS65, 1971-MS66, 1973- MS67, 1970 MS68 and 1972- MS69.. I couldn't have done that if I tried. In 1971 the Bahamas switched to the Franklin Mint for their national coinage and the quality is amazing. First of all, the 1971-73 Uncirculated silver coins were done in a matte finish ( long before the burnished look became in vogue for ASE collectors.) This matte finish truly is stunning with the cartwheel effect it plays in unison with the silver and light dancing around the coin as it's tilted in hand. A slight and often unnoticed design change also occurred on the obverse in 1971- the nation began referring to itself on its coinage as The Commonwealth of The Bahamas instead of the prior coin's inscriptions of "Bahamas Islands. " On July 10th, 1973 the Bahamas officially became an independent nation ( I also own the $10 silver Bahamas coin from 1973 with their Independence day and sailing ship- a large 1.5 ounce silver coin.) So back to the original title of this journal-- along with the remaining dollar coins to complete that series, I had a wonderful $2 Flamingo coin from 1972 that I believed would easily be an upgrade over my existing MS66 for that year. There have now been 199 Bahamas $2 uncirculated coins submitted to NGC from the 1966 thru 73 series and I am proud to say, we now have a SINGLE Perfect MS70 in the books and encapsulated to stay that way. Without further ramblings-- here is the first picture of this scintillating beauty. Best of luck with your submissions my friends and as always, happy hunting........
  15. While some have gone up-- ( under $100 and moderns) many of the classic series have plummeted. My Walker set, for example, has dropped in its book value from around $40k to slightly over $25k ( before my recent upgrade pushed it back to near 30k). If you use NGC resources page for price history, you'll see that buffs, mercs, franklins, commems(really huge drop from 10+ years ago), Morgans etc etc-- all down at least 25% from values 10 years ago. The exceptions are the series key dates and of course distinct PQ coins still draw premiums. It will always be a case of " a coin is worth what someone is willing to pay for it." As our hobby becomes somewhat gentrified and inflation and purchasing power of the dollar keep driving us to less discretionary funds for hobbies, I foresee an even longer slide to lower values for our holdings. Keep it as a hobby is my advice-- between buyers costs, sellers fees, paypal, shipping and the dollar's decline in value.. there are far better investments than collector grade coins. Sorry to be a negative nelly--I'm happy as a collector and will continue to do so, but I don't lie to myself and think that my collections are going to rocket up in value and be a nest egg for my retirement or progeny.