SkyMan

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Everything posted by SkyMan

  1. Unlike many other collectibles markets, on the whole, the space artifact market has been trending upwards, particularly over the last several years.
  2. While I wouldn't mind getting an original Apollo 11 flown Robbins medallion, I'm not willing to spend the ~ $25,000 - $35,000 they would cost to get one. These restruck medallions hold no interest for me, but they might interest someone else. http://www.collectspace.com/news/news-081418a-apollo11-robbins-medallions-50th.html BTW, if you've got the scratch, Armstrong's Apollo 11 flown gold Robbins medallion (1 of 3 gold Apollo 11 Robbins medallions, one each for Armstrong, Aldrin and Collins) will be going up for auction within the year. I wouldn't be surprised if it goes for $250,000.
  3. That's a beautiful looking gold Robbins medallion! That sucker is gonna' go for a bundle.
  4. Blame the seller? Pardon me, but that sounds like blame the person who got raped. You buy and you sell, and while you hope your timing is good, sometimes it isn't. For all we know the seller might be into these coins for $250 - $300 a coin. C'est la vie.
  5. Actually, it is not just a matter of cut and paste. For text it is just cut and paste, but for images you have to do them individually for each of the three major coin board sites (here, PCGS-CU, and Coin Talk).
  6. Here are my 1943 PDS Washingtons for my Registry set. The images are by Bob Campbell, and I think he did an excellent job. The P is a PCGS MS67, the D is an NGC MS65*, and the S is a PCGS MS66.
  7. Peace dollar. Common date/mm. Every few years I'll donate the current piece to a (younger) person who shows interest in learning about the coin. Hopefully one or more has/have gotten interested in numismatics through this.
  8. While I would NOT crack these out, I certainly have cracked a fair amount of slabbed Washingtons to put into my toner Danscos.
  9. These were put into my NGC Registry set before the NGC only rules took effect.
  10. Here are the 1942 PDS Washingtons for my Registry set. All three coins are PCGS MS66. The 1942-D was imaged by Bob Campbell, and I think he did an excellent job. It sure is a lot harder to get decently toned Washingtons from the early 1940's than it is from the 1950's.
  11. Here are the 1957 P and D Washingtons for my A toner Dansco. The P I cracked from a PCGS MS66 slab, and the D I pulled from a Mint Set. The D was imaged by Bob Campbell, and I think he did an excellent job.
  12. Much as I enjoy Washingtons, I'm glad I'm not into those coins at those prices...
  13. This one always makes me think of Easter...
  14. I can't believe I just hit 60. Please post a coin or medallion from 1958, or one that has a 60 in it, or one that has a space based theme. Thank you!!
  15. There's a collector in New Zealand who is interested in collecting space coins and medallions. There are assorted other links on his website to his collection of flown (material) medallions and meteorite coins. While these are not the sort of items I collect, the site shows a bunch of different items, so it is a worthwhile resource if you are interested in finding out about a space related coin or medallion you might have seen someplace. http://www.spacecollection.info/medal_sets/coin_sets.html
  16. Here are the 1957 PD Washingtons for my B toner Dansco. I bought the P as an individual coin off of eBay, and the D I pulled from a Mint Set that I bought at a local B&M. The D was imaged by Bob Campbell, and I think he did an excellent job.
  17. Welcome to the Boards!!! You'll find a lot of knowledgeable and interesting people here. Many people here specialize in a given Type (or series), or more than one. If you have questions about specific coin Types you might ask who on the Boards is an expert in that Type, and generally that collector will be happy to help you. FWIW, one of the areas I specialize in is Franklin half dollars. Finding any silver coin these days in a bank roll search is a treat. As mentioned above, your coin is well circulated, but it is still silver, roughly .36 ounces of it, so given today's silver value it is worth roughly $6. There were 3 mints that produced Franklin half dollars during their 1948 - 1963 run; Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco. Each of these mints had certain characteristics. Generally the S mint had the worst strike of all the mints. It is much more difficult to find fully struck examples of the S mint than their comparable D and P date brethren. The 1953 S was particularly egregious in this regard, hence the rarity and high valuation for fully struck 1953-S Franklins. FWIW, when looking at Franklins, aside from the full bell line, another characteristic of a nicely struck coin on the reverse is that you can read "Pass and Stow" easily (just above the central bell crack). On the obverse of a well struck Franklin you will see 3 curls of hair in front of his ear. Here is my 1953-S. It is graded NGC MS66*. You'll note that you can NOT see the three curls of hair in front of the ear on the obverse, On the reverse you will note "Pass and Stow" is fully visible, but that the bottom bell lines are not full, being non-existent in the area of the bell crack. Even though this coin does not have either the 3 curls on the obverse or full bell lines, it is an above average strike for the date/mintmark. Note also how your coin shows more wear than this coin. That is caused by the circulation of your coin, e.g. it was used for commerce. All coins, in particular more modern coins, are broken down into circulated coins and Mint State (or uncirculated) coins. As you might imagine, mint state coins are worth more than circulated coins. Most Franklins, once they get a moderate amount of wear on them, are (with a few exceptions) generally worth their silver melt value.
  18. While many of D. Carr's Moonlight Mint works are attractive, they are, BY DEFINITION, not coins. A coin is something that is OFFICIALLY sanctioned money. With regards to the poll, my all time favorite design is not on it, and would be the DBHE design. Of that design, I'd say the larger the coin, the more I like it. One suggestion that I might make for the poll is that you don't have one of the most collected designs of all, the Lincoln cent. Given that you have a limit of 20 choices, and given that you've got the Barber design in three different sizes, I suggest you use the Barber design as one single design Type, add the Lincoln cent as another choice, and then you could add one other design. I'd suggest using either the Indian Head Cent or the Liberty Seated design as your extra design (or of course you could split apart the Walking Liberty and Franklin halves).
  19. The active ingredient for toning should still be sulfur. Sunlight can increase the speed of toning in that it increases the energy levels (heat if you will) that increase the speed of chemical reactions.
  20. Thanks Bobby! Actually it's more common than not for toners in 1947 - 1958 Mint Sets to have different levels of toning on the two sides of the assorted cards. For many of the years in question, one side of the cardboard card would have the paper covering glued to the cardboard, so you could see only one side of each of the coins. That is why the Mint Set cards always had two coins of the given mint for each denomination, so one obverse would face upwards and one reverse would face upwards for each denomination. Over time the owners would pull the coins out and sometimes they'd put them back in the way they were supposed to and sometimes they'd put them back any old way. Of note is that it was the coins on the side exposed to air that would tone up first, NOT the side of the coins that was on the glued paper side. This set is actually unusual in that the colors match up pretty well on both sides for the P mint coins. My best guess is that the glue used in 1956 was weaker or something, because many times when I look at 1956 Mint Sets the (pink) paper is not glued to the card. Take a look at the color of the pink paper in the obverse/reverse images of the P mint card, and notice the difference in color. Note also that the cardboard in the P reverse/(second) image appears discolored as I believe a light glue coating was applied to this side Here are the Mint set cards for the Mint Set... The P Washington shown in the beginning post is in upper left position of the first image (FWIW I sent in the upper right Franklin to be slabbed and it came back PCGS MS66FBL. The Franklin in the lower left IMO is also 66FBL, but I've kept it raw for my Franklin A toner Dansco). The P Washington is in lower left position of the second image. (The slabbed Franklin is in the lower right position). The D Washington shown in the beginning post is in lower right position of the third image, and is in the upper right position of the fourth image.