World Colonial

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About World Colonial

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    I was posting here when you were in diapers.

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  1. I don't buy $8500 coins but I have lost more than a few times myself. Every time I did, I obviously liked the coin but not remotely enough to potentially get "buried" in it. The coins I collect aren't widely held and getting into a bidding war can put you way over likely value in a hurry, a market value which you won't really even know.
  2. Under the eBay system, they may also block you. Most might not care and wonder why anyone would want to buy from the same seller again but it might happen. I bought from a well known prior forum member here who has been selling on eBay for years. I had several transactions with them with no problems. This was all for graded coinage. I then bought an ungraded coin relying on their images and my perception of their reputation. When I received the coin, it wasn't terrible but I contacted the seller to return it. My messages were ignored, including through this forum. I was subsequently blocked for leaving a neutral.
  3. Make sure you can the return the coin or if you cannot, that you actually want it. Otherwise, you are probably better off buying it in the grade you want from a reputable TPG.
  4. It is an option but my opinion is that it would disproportionately result in "fire sale" prices or the coins not selling. Using this option, what I would do is consign a relatively small portion of the collection and see what happens by comparing the results to my estimate of value and dealer offers, if any. I don't believe any auctioneer is going to take the time to list thousands of low value coins as individual lots. No money in it for them for the time it will require. The only possibility I can see for any auction company accepting an 11,000 coin collection of this estimated value in its entirety is if they offer it in bulk lots with the size of the lot depending upon the composition and quality, whether the collection is sold at once or split up over several auctions. If the lots are large, the only likely bidders will be dealers with maybe a somewhat better price due to the competition. For smaller lots, there might be collector interest. Under either, almost certainly still at massive discounts to the Krause list or even actual retail. I have heard that these auctions do sometimes result in inflated prices due to ignorant buyers (purportedly disproportionately non-collectors just buying something) but I wouldn't expect it. For most collectors, eBay is a better option since you can return the item if you don't like it and can't usually perform a personal inspection.
  5. You are welcome. My focus is narrow too but I still enjoy spending time reviewing other coins I don't collect, a lot of it. I check eBay, auction firms such as Heritage and on Sixbid, PCGS Facts and the TPG population data. I use it for general reference and where applicable, as a point of reference for what I collect. Example: Since I don't know how scarce my primary series (Bolivia, Guatemala and Peru) pillar minors actually is, I attempt to infer it from other series which appear to be a reasonable comparison. I also have a few other coins with reflective fields, but as you stated. One is a 1936 South Africa shilling. I bought it as a PL but when I received it, only the obverse. NGC can also be quite strict in awarding CAM and DCAM; stricter than PCGS for the coins I own at least. One is a 1957 SA penny with the deepest obverse mirrors I have ever seen but it must have been the reverse which did not quality.
  6. The only PL I have ever owned was an 1892 South Africa ZAR penny. It graded MS-64 RB PL and is now one of the seven in the NGC census for all color combinations. It was graded in 2005, so though I don't know when NGC started assigning the designation to world coinage, I assume it applies universally at least since this date. Of the series I collect, there aren't many. A few other SA ZAR denominations; I believe an 1892 crown and 1894 two shillings. Also a single 1936 two shillings and a couple of 1934 half penny. I believe one Mexico pillar dollar (maybe more) but can't remember the date without checking. Outside of series specifically struck with this finish (such as 1960's and 1970's mint sets), the number from my review is quite low. Exceptions include the 1861 Mexico 2R and 1821 Guatemala 1/2R or 1/R.
  7. You seem to be confusing the catalog value with actual retail prices. Yes, coin dealers will frequently use the Krause (NGC Price Guide) value IF it suits their purposes. In other words, they will sell at this price if it is much higher than actual market (usually the case) and will certainly use it to make offers if they know it is substantially below it. However, this is different than what you seem to believe. You only include a few examples in your images. However, if your collection consists of 11,000 coins and has a catalog value of $250,000, this is going to mean that it's overwhelmingly composed of low to very moderately priced coinage. If it is substantially composed of (very) high quality examples from a series (country, design and denomination) which is in demand, it will be much easier to sell near or even above catalog. On the other hand, if it is mostly average to lower quality coins or even decent examples which aren't in demand, actual retail is going to be a low or even minimal fraction. To give you a few examples, I collect Bolivian coinage. The 1942 50c is listed at $8 in "UNC". I don't visit coin shops but this is probably how much a dealer will ask though the coin isn't remotely really worth this amount even in somewhat higher mint state grades (above a 60). In a true auction on eBay, with a starting price of 99c, it might sell for 99c, it might sell for $2 or it might not sell AT ALL because it is an extremely common coin and most collectors would rather buy a better example or something else. Another one is the 1973 Soviet 15 kopek which I discussed on this site previously. It is listed @ $220 in MS-63. Going by eBay listings where I saw multiple full sets in much better quality sitting unsold for months at only slightly higher ask prices, the actual value in grade is probably $25 or even less. Yes, a full set of eight or nine coins which looked maybe MS-66 (better or a lot better) offered for only slightly more than this one coin is listed in Krause sat on eBay for months. Some might still be there now. Not trying to discourage you but to get the value you seem to believe you have, you aren't going to be able to get it by taking any short cuts. The less effort you put in yourself, the less money you are almost certainly going to receive. As others have implied, no dealer is going to both have an established customer base for your entire collection and be willing to put in the time to sell it except by offering you a "fire sale" price. The selling of a large number of low value coins is a time consuming activity and sellers need to expect that a dealer will expect sufficient compensation for it. The catalog price you see which many collectors think is actual retail, it incorporates what I am describing to you and in many instances going by eBay results, it's probably most of the supposed value. There is also an opportunity cost if it takes a long time to move the coin and the dealer will want to be paid for that as well.
  8. I agree with you and particularly the post above where you recommended other options for financial gain. I suspect what is in effect here is the minimal financial capital required to search through circulating coinage versus other options. To make any "big money" in the stock market you have to start with at least a decent amount of money, unless you hit the jackpot with options or an Amazon.
  9. I saw your post but was typing it as you posted it. You beat me to it.
  10. Where did you obtain your estimates? If from Krause, you might as well know that the prices are not accurate, frequently wildly inaccurate and when it is, more often than not over valued. As mentioned by others, you can list it on eBay but otherwise, to maximize the proceeds you will need to find the right outlet which will depend upon the coin.
  11. Thanks. Not familiar with that 1923 SA farthing. It isn't listed in any price guide I know, including Kaplan from 1950. Old SA currency is both rare and expensive, at least in decent or high quality. Is the "Three Graces" crown in the collection? I believe Heritage auctioned one at NYINC. The Metropolitan Museum of Art had one (in gold) displayed by the cafeteria in the late 90's or early 2000's when I visited.
  12. Too bad. Someone with their influence and deep pockets was in a unique position to assemble a comprehensive quality collection at mostly cheap prices for the time. And by this, I am excluding the quality standards in recent use which would have been of no interest to any collector a long time ago and which they would have had no reason to believe would ever matter. As an example, somewhere in the NGC news archives, there is an article covering the Baldwin collection of South African "patterns" when they graded it. The article didn't state it but since this firm was founded in 1872 and this coinage was issued later, I infer this family was able to use their network to acquire it shortly after it was issued though it may have been from another collector or dealer. In the case of the British royal family, they could have assembled the best British and commonwealth collection of all time had they wanted to do so.
  13. I have bought a few raw coins in the vicinity of $1000 from eBay and other auctions. I'll do so as it is either that or pass and have no opportunity to buy the particular coin (date, denomination, origin) at all. The most recent instance was in 2017 for a 1768 Bolivia 2R which I grade AU-55. It also could use conservation, as I believe it was previously dipped or lightly cleaned and there is residue in the legend. I need to take it to a coin show and have NGC evaluate it directly at some point.