powermad5000

Notice the strike on the experimental planchet looks nothing like the quarter you have in your possession. I note on the error piece there is a total lack of rim on the obverse and what I will call a messed up rim on the reverse. Also notice the flow lines toward the rim and the effect of the flow of the lettering out towards the rim. Much of this is probably attributed to there being incorrect pressure on that strike and probably too high for the metal to handle. I am also not sure if it broke or trashed the collar during that strike as I can't see the edge of the error or know if the size is slightly larger than an average quarter.

Ok

As a fan of this series, I wouldn't mind a comprehensive book regarding the varieties throughout. I do note more often than not, that a person will refuse to share information if they think the person they are going to share it with will profit off of the reveal of the information, instead of the holder of such information making their own profit off of said, or at least getting a cut of the profit. Money makes the world go round.

Removed.

Hello and welcome to the forum! Understandably that is too many coins to take photos of. I don't see any potential key dates in your general description of the collection either. Unless you are willing to do your own extensive research and spend a lot of time trying to learn about the different coins and their separate nuances, I would also take them either to a local dealer for an assessment, or to someone you know that knows coins well to check for any with potential elevated values. Also, typically it depends on the condition of the coins and if they are in superb condition or modestly or well worn. The 1901 Morgan dollar can be worth premium if it is in uncirculated condition, but well worn specimens of that coin value between $40-$100. I agree with @Coinbuf that many collections are assembled usually because the coins are "old", but many of those specimens are not necessarily based upon rarity, superb condition and premium value.

Hopefully it is the translation word @Just Bob. Like earlier in the thread the word weaken was used in place of submission or submit. I am hoping this also means submit.

Photos are necessary for us to make any kind of assessment.

Love me some of them home rolls! Yum!

Nice to see you back! It's been a while.

Hello and welcome to the forum! For the 1882 year, there is an O/S VAM with three subtypes but the O in these VAM's is the predominant mintmark with the S underneath and looks nothing like the mintmark on your coin. I can see the top of the S and part of the downward slant of the middle of the S is lower in height than the bottom part of the S. Being silver is a soft metal, it looks like a hit displaced some of the metal of the original mintmark and caused it to look deformed. I think this would fall into the damaged category (not for the mintmark) and would receive a details grade for also being cleaned, at least on the obverse. I see some hairlines that travel in different directions and some deep scratches in the leaves and cotton bolls that basically erased all of the detail in the leaves and cotton bolls. I would say you paid a fair price for it, but in its condition, it would not have any added value.

I don't need to look at the reverse really in this case. The obverse speaks for the rest of the coin. It is a counterfeit and not a good one. Without typing out the full laundry list just on the obverse, the date numerals are not correct, the motto lettering is uneven, and the denticles are not fully formed. The overall detail is severely lacking the fine details that should be present on these being the first year of the series. Even though the others have already stated, never lay a coin on your bare hand. Always handle coins by their edges.

Unless you paid a high sum of money to acquire these, I can pretty much guarantee they will not achieve those grades. Using the very common 1923 Peace Dollar as an example, of all that NGC has graded (362,489 total), less than 5,000 achieved those grades. Anybody selling ones at those levels would have surely made a very good dent in your wallet to part with ones of that quality. If you are dreading sending anything in, it just means you need to do a lot more work on your self grading. Most of my submissions at this point come back graded with what I thought they would. Its only taken me over 45 years to get to this point however, so settle in for the long haul, do the work, but enjoy the chase along the way. Be glad for the people you meet along the way. Some unique individuals make the hobby fun and interesting on their own even if coins were not involved at all.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I believe we had a discussion in the forum here involving multiple strikes in a thread quite some time ago and it was determined that the second, or possibly more strikes will obliterate most of the evidence of the first strike. On the date of the coin you posted, I see one primary date and three weaker images, all shifted. I do not see how this could have occurred during the striking without also affecting the rest of the design and lettering as well as showing some evidence of the same type of rotation happening on the reverse (if it were to be the planchet rotating between strikes). I don't see this same thing in any area of the reverse. I am going to say someone took a soft impression of this cent, and transferred it to a harder metal and then used that to hammer extra strikes on to this coin. I note the coin is also misshapen some which would explain the extra hammer blows to me. I do not think this happened at the Mint.

One would have to have some type of evidence to support such a claim, as a photo of him with the coin in his hand and clearly that particular piece. Otherwise it is just merely rumor and speculation. Looks spooned to me and anybody could have spooned it.

Hello and welcome to the forum! Being you looked online, could you tell us where you saw one for $10K asking price? Was it a legitimate large auction house such as Heritage, Stacks and Bowers, or Great Collections? Or was it eBay? Be advised, there are some real scumbag sellers on eBay looking to push off non legitimate errors (plated, damaged, altered) for such prices. Not all sellers on eBay are crooked in this fashion, but be aware there are dozens that are.

Thank you for posting photos of your coins. You have some really nice ones there! It is good that you are striving for the best examples you can find. It does take some knowledge to buy coins such as the ones you have in the cardboard flips and know whether they are valuable enough to submit them. This I stated in a previous comment. I do have some moderns which I sent in and they came back worth less than $10 USD which means the plastic costed more than the coin in it. Some of those I had personal sentiments involved, but as for building a collection, what I did would not be the best idea. As I have many modern coins as part of my collection, I will say it is difficult to find a modern coin worth over $100 USD let alone worth $300 USD. As they are your coins, and you can do with them as you wish, I would still only submit 3 coins or less on my first submission and wait to see how the results return and see how your feelings are after getting those back before sending in many coins.

Being as you are new to the hobby, you need to get familiar with coins in general and the specifics of each series. I would take the advice of @Sandon in your shoes. I collected for decades before I ever even thought about spending $1000 or more on a single coin purchase. I don't expect you will get too many solid answers to your question as it is really something very specific to each different collector. Each one will have a different list. Also, as someone who has been at it in this hobby for over 4 decades, I can tell you I just went to one of the largest coin shows in this area last week and specifically intended to spend $2,500 on a single coin. I looked at roughly over 100 different coins and types, and I have to admit, there was a lot of coins priced in that area that were "nice", but grading wise were just not worth the money being asked for them. As an example, one was an 1874 CC Trade Dollar which looked fantastic and nice white color in the case and in the flip it was in. It wasn't until I asked to have it removed from the flip, which the dealer abided by, and I got to examine the surface without a barrier over it that I found many hairlines on the surface which would have given the coin an Unc Details - Cleaned grade and surely impacted the value of it to well less than $2,000. The ask price on the flip was $2,700. Had I bought that coin, I would have basically lost at least $1,000 as soon as I walked away from the table with it. It is reasons like this that I say to take the advice given here, and spend your money buying books and paying entry fees into coin shows, and spend time reading those books and examining as many coins as you can for either true quality or for flaws.

I asked because you actually never know what you might get in cash register change just as well as roll hunting. Over the years I have gotten some surprising things in my cash register change. I did get an Indian Head cent only one time. It was a common 1900 date very well worn but I was still surprised to get one of those handed to me.

I got a full roll of the Formative Years design from the bank when they came out. The roll was all the same date and same (P)'s. I went through the whole roll one at a time and sent in the best one of the roll. It came back MS 66 RD. Not really worth the cost of sending it in. My advice would be since you already messed with the end of the roll, it would be hard to sell off the whole roll on say eBay because everybody will assume it has been cherrypicked so I would go ahead and open it, but I wouldn't expect to find any 67's or 68's unless you were super lucky. It's kind of like playing the lotto. I hope you get lucky and do find a superb gem in it. Good luck! Maybe revisit this thread with the results.

Just curious as to where you found it. Roll hunting?

Nothing wrong with collecting moderns and the fact that you are striving for the highest grades possible is good. Most moderns are not worth the cost of grading unless they are exceptionally high grades which would be MS 67 and above. My advice for someone who has never sent coins in to be graded, make your first submission small which would be 3 coins or less and see what grades you get back unless you are very self confident in your own self grading skills. Making a small first submission will give you an idea on just how good the quality of the rest of your collection is.

Hello and welcome to the forum! The first thing I noted from the photo was the shape and positioning of the D mintmark which led me to look at Variety Vista. It is possible it may be the 1945 D RPM-005 variety. Without clear, fully cropped photos of both sides of the coin, however, it cannot be determined from the provided photo as we are unable to check the obverse and reverse for the markers that would identify if it were to be this variety. As for the "corral", I would also give the coin a soak in some acetone as it looks like it is some kind of glue or adhesive or other foreign substance on the surface and it would be beneficial to remove this substance. Please note to let the acetone do the work and do not use any object in an attempt to scrape the substance off. Also, do not rub the surface of the coin in an attempt to remove it. Any of these methods will surely damage the coin.

It is important to note that it is not just US coins that are counterfeited typically by the Chinese. These would also fall into that category as well. I would say before you attempt to sell this or the Bison you have that you take them to an expert who can properly provide some kind of evidence that what you have are legitimate specimens.

Hello and welcome to the forum! Submitting coins for grading is an expensive process and typically most coins to be submitted should be valued at a base minimum of $100 while many collectors will only submit coins valued at $300 or more. The advice of @Sandon is very good and he is well respected in the forums here. Just as a question, could you perhaps tell us what types of coins you are considering submitting and possibly post a photo of one of them here? If we have a little more information about what you plan to send we could perhaps be able to better guide you as to whether or not to submit them to be graded.