Matt_dac

Post the contact/sales link so we can inform the owner how not to get ripped off. 

A few more/larger pictures:

Freshly graded and ready to ship.  $400 net to me shipped.

I suspect this thread will be shut down soon, but one question to pose is "what is the line between natural toning and artificial toning?"

For those who acquired and submitted to our hosts, how did you make out?  I acquired two V75 ASE's, one I managed to buy myself and the other I bought from a buddy.  I submitted both and got one 70 and one 69.  I'm keeping the 70 and selling the 69.  I managed to get a a V75 AGE into my cart, but could never checkout with it. 

I suggest starting with a Whitman coin album for your Wheat cents to view what you have and to create hunting goals.  It's hard to believe that 100 year old pennies can be spent with little actual loss, but it's true.  There are just a few Lincoln dates with any value: 1909-S VDB, 1909-S, 1914-D, 1922 No D, 1931-S, 1955 Double Die, 1969-S Double Die, and of course the 1943 copper.  During this hunt, particularly if you're looking at double die coins, be sure to review the difference between actual double die (valuable) and mechanical doubling (worthless) as the latter has beguiled many new collectors.  Tell you son about some of the history during the year one of your coins was minted, how much things cost back then, etc.  I still find that aspect fascinating. 

Sadly, no real value with circulated examples (maybe $2 per coin at best), and even proofs are going for $11 (which means they are not worth even a fraction of the grading fees).  Don't let this discourage you though.

My Eagle has a bit of rose toning:

As other intimated, even 2020 proof coins from the mint can have production or handling flaws which render it a lower grade.  Also, with time you will observe that even coins which have been graded may have been over or under graded.  Trust the pros, but sometimes it can be obvious and grade does not always equate to eye appeal.

While not from the US mint and not a coin, I was recently on the hunt for the 1/2 oz gold Apollo 11 Robbins Medal 50th Anniversary Restrike Matte Proof by Sunshine Mint.  I examined three of these medals in hand with my 10x loupe.  Two were raw (not graded) and one had been graded PF70 Matte by our hosts.  The graded PF70 Matte had immediately obvious flaws on the rim of the obverse, and in my humble opinion, there was no way this deserved a grade of PF70.  Only 2019 of these medals were minted so they are not available in high quantities.  I selected the best of the three from my eye appeal perspective and it ended up being one of the raw examples.  I submitted to our hosts and it earned the grade of PF69 Matte.  I agree with the grade (two very small hits likely prevented the 70) but this one looked MUCH better than the PF70 I examined as well as the other raw example. 

Unfortunately not, and worth 1 cent.

My first thought was ex-jewelry with the rings.  If yes, it would be worth melt authenticated or raw in my opinion.  

Note - this is a three year old thread.

Would you take 1 penny, and you pay for shipping?

Don't indulge the troll....we've explained a dozen times the difference between a real double die and mechanical doubling.

18 hours ago, WRP1972 said:

Thanks!  I've found my first 2019 W the other day.  Its a San Antonio Missions.  I'm thinking about getting it graded!

How does it look?  Only a super high grade, MS67 or better, would be worth the grading fees.  Graded 66's are under $40 now.  Unless you are prioritizing the case/protection/grade for your very cool find in the wild!  I have not seen a single 2019 W quarter in the wild.  I bought an MS67 this past year at the FUN show (cell phone pics):

You may already know this, but the 2019 Lowell quarter with value has the W mint mark.  It's OK to spend the coin pictured above as it has no numismatic value. 

My wife actually just did a similar project with a huge number of inherited wheat cents.  I bought her the Whitman folders and some small envelopes to go through the coins putting one in the folder slot and the rest in an envelope marked by year.  

The others pointed out those that have value, and in addition to those repeated above, look closely at the 1955 and 1969 for a double die variety - it's super obvious because you will think your eyes are blurry. 

Good luck with the process. 

No one will want the whole collection unless they can get it CHEAP to compensate for the time/effort they have to put in to selling the individual coins.  You can maximize your profit but it will take a lot of time and effort on your part. 

If you share the series in the collection here we an help you look for the more valuable dates.

For example, wheat pennies?  Mercury dimes?  etc.

Good luck with the process. 

Unfortunately it's OK to spend the coin. 

It would be super rare to find anything in circulation worth grading fees.  I'm sure there are key date treasures out there yet to be discovered, but again super rare.  You may find it helpful to search online to read about the difference between mechanical doubling (worthless) and actual double die coins. 

Good luck with the hunt.

21 hours ago, kbbpll said:

Actually, it's #11 on NGC's top 50 most counterfeited coins. https://www.ngccoin.com/resources/counterfeit-detection/top/united-states/11/. If I remember correctly, many of these were created with the correct gold content and smuggled into the US to get around the prohibition on owning gold, and not for the numismatic value. I can't quickly find a reference on that though. I can't tell a real one from a fake one so no help there.

Well I stand corrected. Wild! 

Don't bite this work of art!  This would not be a heavily counterfeited coin.  You are looking at a $300 coin if straight graded (meaning no one cleaned it, had it set in jewelry, etc.)  Good luck with the process.  These are my favorite coins!

The coin you posted is not a double die, and it's OK to spend it.