orifdoc

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About orifdoc

  • Boards Title
    Collectosaurus Rex

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    MD

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  1. I check in every few days. My visits here are becoming less and less frequent. Lately it's the same 4 or 5 threads at the top with maybe one new reply each. Unless something big happens, I don't see a reason for it to change anytime soon.
  2. Grades are only shorthand valuation appraisals. The numbers are not founded in objectivity and reflect current market whims, manipulation, evolving thinking, and "refinement" by the grading services. Except for registry games, the exact number on the slab is only important on the day you buy and the day you sell. Unless a hidden hoard shows up, your 11th finest example at MS65 will still be the 11th finest example when it's living in a hot-off-the-press MS83++*** holder with 4 stickers, 6 holograms and an implanted microchip in a couple decades. As long as grades are subjective and a profit motive exists to play the crackout/regrade game, it will be easy to find examples like the OP posted.
  3. Welcome to the forum! It's heartwarming to hear about an up-and-coming new collector. All of the advice here is good. A good many of today's collectors were drawn to the hobby with the State Quarter program. It's fun enough to do from circulation and if you want pristine pieces, it's easy to find them too from dealers, etc. I might take her to a coin shop and look through the different types of coins. Many people get interested in early copper, silver dollars, or buffalo nickels. There are dozens of designs, sizes, and types to choose from. You can spend ten bucks a month or millions on a single coin. It's a great hobby that way and the history behind the coins makes it an educational exercise too. One other route to consider are classic (or even modern) commemorative coins. Some of the designs are great and they've all got a story behind their creation.
  4. Nice coin. It's good to luck out, but it's a reasonably good bet buying a graded coin in an NGC fatty holder. As time goes on, I'm becoming less enamored with buying coins without seeing them first. Sure returns are great, but overuse that privilege and the well dries up real quick. When I find a coin on my "hit list" at a show it has maybe a 5-10% chance of making the cut. Good quality photos help, but there's always a chance it won't be quite as nice when it finally arrives. Some of my best purchases have been off of the Internet, but unfortunately most of my big losers came that way too. Find a high-quality dealer who has the same eye and stick to them like glue.
  5. In an AU range, slabbed 1871 dollars are trading between $600-1500. This one has at least one major issue, but even at a discount I'd be nervous buying it raw. As has been said, maybe it's just the photo, but it looks lifeless and dull. If you've already decided that you're OK with a "details" coin, why not get a nice one?
  6. Unless you have very deep pockets, there are always better coins than the ones you have. The trick is to know what it is, know the market, and pay accordingly. If you like it, that's all that really matters. I have a few coins in my collection that I really like that don't get much respect when I share them. Big deal. Oh, and from one Bryce to another, welcome!
  7. Hobby people tend to be hobby people. Here's one of mine:
  8. Mark, the OP indicates he is in Northern New Jersey, not too far from NYC. What a nice inheritance. As the other folks have said, $20 coins are really very cool and should sell at a premium over their melt value. Each of these contains 0.96750 oz of gold. The photos show excellent luster on some of the coins and I'm guessing many would grade in the MS60-62 (possibly 63) range. Some of the others look to have been polished or cleaned (might just be the photography technique), but even so, they'll still sell at a small premium over bullion value. It's slightly tricky to maximize their value at sale time. Getting 80% of the value is easy. Getting 100% will take some legwork on your end. Most dealers will make you a fair offer, but of course they will leave room in their price to make a profit (that's OK, that's their job.) Some dealers will make you a low-ball offer in the hopes of turning a quick (but not entirely ethical) profit. Some of the coins should probably be graded prior to sale, but knowing who to trust is the trick. I don't know that part of the country very well..... Dave Wnuck is in Connecticut, but that would perhaps be a bit far. He advertises that he does appraisals. I'd trust him without hesitation, and you might be able to arrange a meeting in the city, etc. Hopefully some others will chime in with a list of the "good guys." There are certainly others.
  9. Is this thing still on? Took me a while to find the new site.
  10. MF collects Popeye toys? Wow. you learn something new every day. I wasn't collecting "back in the day" and I'm too young to have any memory of silver dollars in circulation, but I do have a copy of Wayne Miller's Silver dollar book from 1983. The perspective of collecting in that era is interesting. The book has a few color pages that show several nice Morgan toners. That said, none of them seem comparable to the "Monsters" that are constantly showing up at auction now. Maybe it's the photography. Maybe it's just the tremendous attention that the best coins are receiving in the always-front-and-center age of the Internet. I have my own suspicions that some of what is "out there" now was manufactured in basement labs. I have no idea to what extent this is true.
  11. The poor OP asked a simple question, has one total post, and the thread is completely off the rails. The easiest way to post photos here is to upload them to a third-party server such as Photobucket or imgur and embedding the link to the photo In your post. 300 silver metal detector finds? Cool! Anything old/rare?