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About BillJones

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    Retired Coin Dealer, Author
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  1. Yes, this is the fairest article I have read to date about the CAC service. There is a lot of good advice here.
  2. The only issue that NGC can have with this “expired” policy is if the token was once Red or R&B and has now turned Brown. I understand that issue. Red copper is delicate and the color can be fickle. If they refuse to honor a grade on a Brown Mint State or circulated coin, that has not gone bad in the holder, that is a problem, That says to me that the holder is not worth that much. If it “turns into a pumpkin” every ten years if you don’t spend more money with the company to keep it up, it’s not worth the price. You will note that I gave NGC every benefit of the doubt with my caveats that the coin “did not change in the holder.”
  3. It is interesting to note that NGC slabs "expire." I can understand this with red and R&B copper, but for brown and circulated copper, it should make no difference. Given proper storage, those pieces should be well preserved. I am an old fashioned collector who prefers my tokens and medals raw. They take up a lot less space, and they are easier to photograph. I only buy slabbed pieces when I have to, to get a specific variety. If the slab does not mean anything after ten years, you might as well crack it out, if that is your preference, since the guarantee is worthless at that point. Does the "expired" clause also apply to the authenticity guarantee also? If it does, that is really poor. A grading service should make authenticity a 100% guarantee with no expiration date.
  4. The United States Hard Times Tokens were issued from 1832 until 1844. What you have might be a U.S. Civil War token. They were issued from 1861 until 1864. One sided (for example a design on one side and blank on the other) Civil War tokens are known. None of them are officially recognized as "patterns" by Civil War Token collectors. They are unusual strikes that may have been die trials or perhaps something that was made to sell to collectors back at that time. There were collectors back then who were willing to pay a premium for something that was different or unsual. I know that these items, when they genuine are, valuable to some collectors. My interests run more toward history and political slogans and issues, so I am not one of those collectors. If you could post pictures you will probably get a better idea of what you have.
  5. I can't see how the prices will not be effected by the information that has come to light recently. I know I am glad that I did not get involved with this issue, although I did seriously consider it.
  6. Recent information about the “Continental Dollars” in “The Numismatist” (January and July issues) are making the real thing less attractive. Research shows that these pieces were Revolutionary War commemorative medals that were issued from England in the early 1780s after the war ended. They were not issued as part of the Continental Currency series at all. Therefore these pieces were never “money.” They were the product of a business venture to capitalize on the end of the American Revolutionary War.
  7. Yes, as the grading standards are watered down, the prices fall. It is a combination of a larger supply of coins with "MS-66" on the slab and the fact that you get less for your money for the grade. In addition many feel that the coins in general are in a price melt down.
  8. The “acid test” to see if your numismatic investment is really growing is to try to sell something and see if you turn a profit. Numbers in prices guides are just that, numbers. When people are willing to lay cash on the barrel, that proves the worth of your investment. I have been a collector since the early 1960s and was a dealer from the mid 1990s to the middle of the last decade. I did fairly well, but I brought a lot of experience to the table before I started buying and selling.
  9. I think that this is bad time to get into that business. The Chinese counterfeits have ruined the market for cheap, lower grade Morgan Dollars. They have made many common date fakes that contain no silver, and any collector who knows about this has become very weary of buying these coins without a close examination. As for your wholesale source, the same problem applies to you. You are going to have look at every piece you buy very carefully. Some of the Chinese counterfeits are a joke. They can’t even get the date and mint mark combinations right. But others are well made and harder to spot.
  10. Perhaps I sould start a poll. How many collectors get out at least 10X glass and look at modern cents to find die varieties? Fess up. How many of you really spend your time doing that? In the past it's been mostly advanced collectors, not new collectors, who got invovled with type of work, and believe me doing that is real work. I'll admit that when I'm rolling cents, two or three times a years, I might look to see if there is a 1969-S doubled die in the group. But I'd never spend the time to look for some of the stuff that has been posted here as "rare doubled dies" which take a strong glass ot see them. Add to that the fact that many of the photos are of damaged coins. Even if you did find a doubled die that was fairly easy to see, the fact that the coin is damaged would severely limit the market for it and would make some people think that the damage is responsible for appearance of what appears to be a die preparation error.
  11. I don't have any interest in these very high priced "rare" modern minor die varieties, but if I did, I would temper my enthusiasm with some logic. If you have ever taken a tour of the Philadelphia Mint, you will have seen how they can pound out very large numbers (I’m talking thousands) of cents in very little time. Even if there were only one die that had this AM reverse variety, the number of pieces that it could have produced is way more than five or whatever the current population is. It’s hard to believe that the mint didn’t make thousands of these coins that are waiting to be found. Most people don’t look at these coins, not even most coin collectors. I think that paying over $20,000 for one of these things in a sucker bet. If it become famous enough, people are going to start looking, and when they do, more will be found. Add to that the fact that cents don’t circulation that much anymore, but end up in jars and drawers, you have ample opportunity for many Mint State examples.
  12. The color and the surfaces do not look right on this piece. The surfaces look shiny as if they whizzed or polished. I would pass. If you are a newbie, why take the chance of buying raw coins on the Internet? If the price, "is not cheap," what is the upside? When I was dealer, I only sold raw coins that didn't have enough value to justify the slabbing fee. The others were certified.
  13. My advice is if you want it in another holder, crack it out and send it in raw. I think that you have two strikes against you when you submit a coin from grading in someone else's holder.
  14. The colonial market is supported by more collectors and fewer speculators, and as you said, the nice ones with good color and hard surfaces are not common.
  15. Nice Twenty Cent Piece, Lincolnman.! At first I thought that you had purchased the 1877 double dime from that sale. For some reason prices on that coin have gone through the roof in all Proof grades. It is the scarcest collectable double dime, but the recent increases seem out of line ot me. And yes I bought one at one of the "out of line prices," but it still seems high.