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What you need to know - characteristics of AT/NT....

45 posts in this topic

To All My Numismatic Friends----This is a wonderful post. And it has done exactly what CTcollector and I hoped that it would do---EXACTLY. At this point I want to again thank the picture posting folks. I am no good at posting color pictures so I needed a lot of help and you guys have come thru for us as if the -script had been written for you and you have followed it absolutely correctly. At this point I want to make a couple of observations. It is hard to compete with 'pretty' or 'beautiful'. It would be like telling a guy to not look at a beautiful woman or a lady not to be impressed with a nice looking hulk of a guy. And instead---go for just the nice girl or just the decent guy. But that is what we are trying to tell you to do with the coins. But to my points. First----I have always told everybody on these boards to buy the books first. To educate yourselves so that others cannot take your money foolishly. So---buy this book---It is called Coin Chemistry [ Including Preservation And Cleaning]. The author is Weimar W. White. In this book he explains an awful lot of stuff----including how in a matter of from hours to days that you can AT coins inside their holders----No matter which TPG holder you care to pick. This book contains a wealth of information that all of us should know. Now secondly, I would like to offer this out to all of you. First I would like to say that I love and collect toned coins. But how many truly "RARE" coins have any of you seen that are toned as these ASE are toned?? Do any of you own or have seen these 'bright and fresh colors' on say an 'early' [1916--29] Walker or say an 1889CC Morgan or say an early Bust half? Yes, all these coins will tone. But that toning is usually darker and deep within the coin's surfaces----Not bright and shiny and laying on top and over the lettering as is on these ASE coins. Coin doctors do not usually mess with truly expensive coins. They will usually fool with the widgets----the 10 to 50 dollar coins---trying to make them into 200 or 500 dollar coins. Or, in the case of certain Peace Dollars---14,000 dollar coins. Put your thinking caps on my good buddies----swallow hard---and ask yourselves if what I am saying just might be plausible?? Give me the best of it and go buy that book. Sit back and read and learn. If it is of any consolation, up until 2 years ago----I was as dumb as a post too. But I have learned and I want all of you to keep your hard earned money for "GOOD" coins---not just pretty ones. Bob [supertooth]

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It is called Coin Chemistry [ Including Preservation And Cleaning]. The author is Weimar W. White.

 

Great book and very informative although he pretty much, categoricically states that all toning is damage w/o giving much latitude on the subject. (Which, technically he's right)

 

 

I resurrected the below thread called: Great Website, TomB! posted a couple of years ago. Tom is a chemist and a knowledgable numismatist who created a website concerning toning. Lots of good info there and on the thread. Check it out:

 

Old post reposted by a host with the most boast to toast or sumpting like that. smile.gif

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Well,how much do you guys think it went for? 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

 

I saw how much it went for. I'm just wondering if you are feeling a bit guilty... 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

 

 

No,why would you say that? confused-smiley-013.gif

 

27_laughing.gif

 

I once had a coin sell for $100 that I thought was worth $50 - $60. I felt guilty. I double checked my pictures and description to see what I had described wrong. I didn't describe anything wrong. The buyer was knowledgable and experienced (also a CU member). I guess he just really liked the coin. If I had sold that piece of bullion for that price I would feel guilty. I would value that coin at around $12-$15.

 

But, you didn't lie in the description and you took a good image. You can't help it if the winner seems to know nothing about coins. I noticed he bought an NNC slabed coin from Centsles and some Acugrade coins too. 893whatthe.gif

 

I guess if you can't protect the ignorant you may as well take advantage of them. confused-smiley-013.gif

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E-bay is something else where a 1943 copper coated cent sells for $5K and a fake 1804 dollar sells for $1K.

 

Only in America......and in the Uk, and in Russia, and in Europe, and in Central and South America, and in Canada...............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

........and in China and in Hong Kong and in Malasia and in the Phillipines and in............

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E-bay is something else where a 1943 copper coated cent sells for $5K and a fake 1804 dollar sells for $1K.

 

Only in America......and in the Uk, and in Russia, and in Europe, and in Central and South America, and in Canada...............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

........and in China and in Hong Kong and in Malasia and in the Phillipines and in............

 

Looks like I need to get my blow torch out....

 

 

 

Then again, I do like to sleep at night. 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

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This has been a great post. I did come accross a coin sold at a recent Goldberg's auction that was labeled by ANACS as AT and sold for $24,000.00. Granted, it was a 1795 half dollar, and I have no idea what it would 'normally' go for, but is anyone of the opinion that this is NT? I guess, this particular kind of coin is of such great value that it really doesn't matter.

 

1795 Flowing Half

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This has been a great post. I did come accross a coin sold at a recent Goldberg's auction that was labeled by ANACS as AT and sold for $24,000.00. Granted, it was a 1795 half dollar, and I have no idea what it would 'normally' go for, but is anyone of the opinion that this is NT? I guess, this particular kind of coin is of such great value that it really doesn't matter.

 

1795 Flowing Half

 

Interesting,I've seen a number of Bust coins up for auction with similar toning. I wonder why this one got branded as AT? Maybe it looks worse in hand 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

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No,why would you say that? confused-smiley-013.gif

 

27_laughing.gif

 

I once had a coin sell for $100 that I thought was worth $50 - $60. I felt guilty. I double checked my pictures and description to see what I had described wrong. I didn't describe anything wrong. The buyer was knowledgable and experienced (also a CU member). I guess he just really liked the coin. If I had sold that piece of bullion for that price I would feel guilty. I would value that coin at around $12-$15.

 

But, you didn't lie in the description and you took a good image. You can't help it if the winner seems to know nothing about coins. I noticed he bought an NNC slabed coin from Centsles and some Acugrade coins too. 893whatthe.gif

 

I guess if you can't protect the ignorant you may as well take advantage of them. confused-smiley-013.gif

 

Actually,I've been sleeping pretty good lately. cloud9.gif

 

As for taking "advantage" of people,I would invite someone to look over my closed auctions and tell me just how I'm doing that. screwy.gif

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Bookmarked as a resource.

 

OUTSTANDING !!!

 

I would suggest that while air is a gas, a distinction might be made between natural convective air movement and forced air movement- with a blower, etc.

 

seems like the mechanism might differ; have no idea if effects would be noticeably different ; but in nature, sometimes there's an observable difference between natural aging and accelerated aging and /or thermal treatment.

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