2020 D quarter
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72 posts in this topic

1 hour ago, Tridmn said:

If it were under a black light would that serve as a better way to see it then

No, it would not.

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1 hour ago, Tridmn said:

What I am saying in retrospect, in a black or even a different color light other than white light a better way to actually check and look at coins?

The color (wavelength) is largely irrelevant. The problem at work here is the number of light sources and their positions. It is the “other” problem (other than too much magnification) with USB microscopes. I have a stereo optical microscope that also has an LED ring light (a mistake) for illumination. But the 360 degree ring can be switched on and off for each 90 degrees. In other words, there are four quadrants of LED arrays that can be switched off individually. When I do that, I can “see” and “un-see” all kinds of “doubling”, caused by too many “hot” reflections unnaturally lighting the coin’s surface. That is exactly what your scope in doing. Using directional lighting, preferably diffused incandescent, will help you see reality without so much excess reflectivity. 
 

The irony is that I know this but I don’t even care about “doubling”, even the “real” kind.

Edited by VKurtB
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May I politely inject what a true doubled die looks like. I know this is a Linc but doubling is doubling...... Please move forward and learn what a doubled die is. Otherwise, you are just wasting your time chasing a dead end. The responses you have received regarding your coin are from the best of the best. There is no need to continue to try to convince a professional to believe you have something you do not. 

2AA63401-717E-4CD7-B17B-95E7B358B9BD.jpeg

90643542-427A-4DD5-AD15-3297A9554BD1.jpeg

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So, what would you suggest? If I back my microscope up then I dont and cant get a good pic. Not one easy to see. So, I am open for your suggestions.

 

The color (wavelength) is largely irrelevant. The problem at work here is the number of light sources and their positions. It is the “other” problem (other than too much magnification) with USB microscopes. I have a stereo optical microscope that also has an LED ring light (a mistake) for illumination. But the 360 degree ring can be switched on and off for each 90 degrees. In other words, there are four quadrants of LED arrays that can be switched off individually. When I do that, I can “see” and “un-see” all kinds of “doubling”, caused by too many “hot” reflections unnaturally lighting the coin’s surface. That is exactly what your scope in doing. Using directional lighting, preferably diffused incandescent, will help you see reality without so much excess reflectivity. 
 

The irony is that I know this but I don’t even care about “doubling”, even the “real” kind.

Edited yesterday at 07:52 PM by VKurtB

 

 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Tridmn said:

So, what would you suggest? If I back my microscope up then I dont and cant get a good pic. Not one easy to see. So, I am open for your suggestions.

 

The color (wavelength) is largely irrelevant. The problem at work here is the number of light sources and their positions. It is the “other” problem (other than too much magnification) with USB microscopes. I have a stereo optical microscope that also has an LED ring light (a mistake) for illumination. But the 360 degree ring can be switched on and off for each 90 degrees. In other words, there are four quadrants of LED arrays that can be switched off individually. When I do that, I can “see” and “un-see” all kinds of “doubling”, caused by too many “hot” reflections unnaturally lighting the coin’s surface. That is exactly what your scope in doing. Using directional lighting, preferably diffused incandescent, will help you see reality without so much excess reflectivity. 
 

The irony is that I know this but I don’t even care about “doubling”, even the “real” kind.

Edited yesterday at 07:52 PM by VKurtB

 

 

Does your USB scope have variable magnification? If it does, try taking some test pics at its MINIMUM magnification, rather than zooming way in. Look at them carefully. Turn off jpeg mode and try to save some in a “lossless” file format instead. JPEG artifacts and “digital sharpening” artifacts are adding pixels to your images that are not real parts of the image. Digital scopes are a double edged sword. What they give you in convenience they take away in accuracy. 

Edited by VKurtB
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On 6/1/2021 at 7:38 PM, VKurtB said:

No, it would not.

On 6/1/2021 at 6:22 PM, Tridmn said:

 

Have a newer microscope otw. Light and lins go straight up and down. Along with magnification up to 1k. Will probably get that hingh, because you basically said I was no good.

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1 hour ago, Tridmn said:

Have a newer microscope otw. Light and lins go straight up and down. Along with magnification up to 1k. Will probably get that hingh, because you basically said I was no good.

Your Microscope is fine you just have to remember to look at the coin from different angles and learn about the die variety's that make a coin look the way it does. I am still learning every day. I roll hunt for errors and find stuff all the time but is it the real deal 99% of the time it is not. It is a worn out die or grease or damage that looks like a mint mistake that got away. Don't give up there are some cool finds out there still but not all is what it seams to be. Here is a good shot of what looks to be doubling, if you look see the scratches or flow lines in the background they have polished the die to try to get some more use out of it  but it is just a worn out die making reflections it looks like a big double deal.

S20210430_0010.jpg

S20210430_0008.jpg

Edited by J P Mashoke
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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Tridmn said:

Have a newer microscope otw. Light and lins go straight up and down. Along with magnification up to 1k. Will probably get that hingh, because you basically said I was no good.

Great googly moogly! 1k?!?? Listen, I bought a stereo microscope with a third tube for a camera (from Amscope) and its MAXIMUM magnification is 30x. That is a numismatic scope. 

Edited by VKurtB
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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, J P Mashoke said:

 

Your Microscope is fine you just have to remember to look at the coin from different angles and learn about the die variety's that make a coin look the way it does. I am still learning every day. I roll hunt for errors and find stuff all the time but is it the real deal 99% of the time it is not. It is a worn out die or grease or damage that looks like a mint mistake that got away. Don't give up there are some cool finds out there still but not all is what it seams to be. Here is a good shot of what looks to be doubling, if you look see the scratches or flow lines in the background they have polished the die to try to get some more use out of it  but it is just a worn out die making reflections it looks like a big double deal.

S20210430_0010.jpg

S20210430_0008.jpg

Remember Tridm, on the die these letters are incuse, not raised. After millions of cycles of metal being jammed into these tiny crevices, what do you think will happen? They wear. And it creates “strike doubling”. Completely worthless strike doubling. 
 

Stop trying to do this “your way” and listen to advice. 

Edited by VKurtB
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4 hours ago, VKurtB said:

Remember Tridm, on the die these letters are incuse, not raised. After millions of cycles of metal being jammed into these tiny crevices, what do you think will happen? They wear. And it creates “strike doubling”. Completely worthless strike doubling. 
 

Stop trying to do this “your way” and listen to advice. 

what is it that I am not listening to? U said it was lighting at odd angles. Fixing that issue. That's 1. 2 is it should give me a better picture, along with more clarity. 3. I am most certainly not doing it my way anymore. You explained and I listened. So I'm trying to improve. Is there something wrong with getting clearer and better pics.? That way I am able to look and say this coin has a very small amount of MD. Instead of posting it and then being ridiculed because of it.

On 6/1/2021 at 7:38 PM, VKurtB said:

No, it would not.

On 6/1/2021 at 6:22 PM, Tridmn said:

 

Have a newer microscope otw. Light and lins go straight up and down. Along with magnification up to 1k. Will probably get that hingh, because you basically said I was no good.

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The 1K magnification is a really bad idea.  Think MUUUUUCH lower.

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Posted (edited)
On 6/4/2021 at 9:41 AM, VKurtB said:

Great googly moogly! 1k?!?? Listen, I bought a stereo microscope with a third tube for a camera (from Amscope) and its MAXIMUM magnification is 30x. That is a numismatic scope. 

It goes all the way down to 0.5k if that is any better

Edited by Tridmn
Needed to fix my reply
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Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, Tridmn said:

It goes all the way down to 0.5k if that is any better

Not better. You’re still talking about 500x? I spent over $500 on my scope and it’s magnification range is 3x to 30x.  I haven’t gone over 15x in four years. You’re looking at coins, not blood samples. 

Edited by VKurtB
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On 6/8/2021 at 8:39 PM, VKurtB said:

At least with his high power scope, we may get to see the structure of milk spots and flow lines. 

If you are trying to help, you're sure doing a bang up job. 

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1 hour ago, Tridmn said:

If you are trying to help, you're sure doing a bang up job. 

Seriously, there ARE things to learn about coins generally under high power, like what causes luster. Or what certain contaminants on a coin look like. There is great usefulness there. But maybe not so much after initially learning that stuff. Error or variety attribution will never be helped at high magnification. 

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@TridmnDude, I thought I had a bad attitude, but you whoop my spoons with yours. That said, all you need to take a great shot is whatever phone you have and a $5 clip on Macro lens. A single regular bulb 2' or so over your workspace. That's it. You could also make a picture box. If you google wikihow.com/picture box it might come right up. It might not. But They Are easily made. I have a great article on the US Mint History and How Coins are made. Only way I can share it is via email. If you want it let me know. Point is, these guys really tried to be helpful with you but you won't even let them. You are one of those Newbies that everyone dreads to deal with yet you see they still try to educate you knowing full well that you are an aspoon. You should listen. Not only hear. Let me know if you want the article. 

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On 6/13/2021 at 3:31 AM, KarenHolcomb said:

@TridmnDude, I thought I had a bad attitude, but you whoop my spoons with yours. That said, all you need to take a great shot is whatever phone you have and a $5 clip on Macro lens. A single regular bulb 2' or so over your workspace. That's it. You could also make a picture box. If you google wikihow.com/picture box it might come right up. It might not. But They Are easily made. I have a great article on the US Mint History and How Coins are made. Only way I can share it is via email. If you want it let me know. Point is, these guys really tried to be helpful with you but you won't even let them. You are one of those Newbies that everyone dreads to deal with yet you see they still try to educate you knowing full well that you are an aspoon. You should listen. Not only hear. Let me know if you want the article. 

Point is, yes I understand the picture quality. However when being publicly humiliated is part of their arsenal; that's gone too far. Wouldnt you agree; even if they are so called "professionals"? Yes they may have many years on me when it comes to coins, sure. Humiliation is not the way to go. Yes, I did argue back, fact. Going to the extreme that happened isnt right. No matter how you look at it. I believed I had a great case, and then came the lighting issues and the camera issues and then to humiliation. Should a professional act in such a way?

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On 6/4/2021 at 9:41 AM, VKurtB said:

Great googly moogly! 1k?!?? Listen, I bought a stereo microscope with a third tube for a camera (from Amscope) and its MAXIMUM magnification is 30x. That is a numismatic scope. 

Then send me one. Look, I'm disabled and cant afford a lot. This new microscope wasnt what I needed or wanted. Spent what I had saved on it. So if what you have is that great, and u dont want me showing pics on what looks like doubling on my scope, then send me one.

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9 hours ago, Tridmn said:

Then send me one. Look, I'm disabled and cant afford a lot. This new microscope wasnt what I needed or wanted. Spent what I had saved on it. So if what you have is that great, and u dont want me showing pics on what looks like doubling on my scope, then send me one.

Until you develop the skill of being able to LISTEN, I’m done.

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Ok I'll pickup where they left off, for I once was in your shoes, well in a way I was.

When I first got my camera I totally thought I had something on a 1961 Proof quarter, I thought same doubling everything, I call this the new new effect.

What everyone is saying is angles and lighting, sounds like me in the beginning thus I learned the ways of my errors of being way to close or too much lighting.

To be honest sounds like I have the same camera 40x-1000x with led lights which I had to turn down depending on the coin, yes 40x is extreme thus you'll only need it for mint marks and stuff we see with the normal camera picture but need more up close view.

Practice angles and lighting, master your camera.

PS if you're looking that close its probably not there, most my best pictures are just normal camera and small office light.

Hope this helps :)

 

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Howdy to my classmate slick glad to see you in class. Now to topic. Welcome tridmn.. As a newbie I’ve been practicing with my iPhone 7 and natural light and overhead incandescent. I sit in my office chair and practice holding with one hand and snapping with the other. Gunna build a stand (coat hanger tape pop cycle stick pipe cleaners I’ll find something).  Maybe you can return the scope for something else closer to what you need.   Free newbie advice talking back to teachers never helped me. There is a wonderful group of people here (some a little grumpier) but have you checked out the cost of one unit of college. I believe we are saving money every time we learn something.   Common courtesy  and a degree of patience will serve us all well   We all go through a break in period still in mine. Again welcome        Here’s one of mine I don’t need a scope to see🤓

41DFBA33-C1B3-405F-B653-0BFF52CF9CF5.jpegPlanchette with dime struck in about 10percent of the edge 

Edited by James Zyskowski
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