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What Tier Grading for Accugrade Slabbed Gold Coins
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14 posts in this topic

I have 3 gold coins slabbed by Accugrade that is not recognized grading service and need proper grading. I signed up as NGC Premium member. Coins: 1910 $2:50 Indian Liberty, 1986 $5 Liberty and 1986 $10 Liberty. What tier do I submit under?  I don't believe this is considered a re-grade.

Thanks,

Rex

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With NGC you would treat them as raw coins and they would go in under the Gold tier.  Re-grade is only for previously NGC graded coins, and re-grade isn't a tier it's an add-on.  They can't go in as crossovers because NGC only accepts PCGS graded coins for crossovers.

Edited by Conder101
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You might have an expert check your coins first. Some Accugrade coins are indeed accurately graded. Why would you spend an extra $100 to know what you already know?

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9 hours ago, Conder101 said:

With NGC you would treat them as raw coins and they would go in under the Gold tier.  Re-grade is only for previously NGC graded coins, and re-grade isn't a tier it's an add-on.  They can't go in as crossovers because NGC only accepts PCGS graded coins for crossovers.

Not entirely true. On the official serial-numbered NGC Submission Form regarding  CrossOvers, the last line states:  "Coins holdered by other grading services are not eligible for CrossOver and must be removed from their holders and submitted raw (not holdered), or they may be submitted in their holders if they are accompanied by NGC's Consent to Remove Coin(s) from Holder(s) Form."

Three paragraphs down, printed in red, is the direction:  "Sign the Consent to Remove Coins ( on the back of this cover sheet) if applicable, and include with submission."

On the back of the cover sheet, headed:  "CONSENT TO REMOVE COIN(S) FROM HOLDER(S)" is a line italicized in red which reads, as follows:

To be completed only if submitted coin(s) were previously graded and encapsulated by a third-party grading service other than NGC, NCS or PCGS. 

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38 minutes ago, RexKramer said:

Took some pics of the 1910 Indian, hopefully be of help. 

1910_slabfront.jpg

1910_slabback.jpg

1910_L.jpg

1910_L-back.jpg

Personally, I would leave it as is.  The coin and holder speak volumes all by themselves.  The only dissenter, God bless him, would be VKurtB.  He prefers to physically examine coins, raw and unencapsulated, by his fingertips.

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Quintus, thats great, thank you. Now, whats the best way to determine value? I've looked on ebay and its all over the map. Plus I have two other Accurgrade coins( listed above) I need to take pics. I'm selling these as part of estate inheritance otherwise I'd keep these. But If I get a proper value I can buy their shares out and keep them. 

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A word about eBay, which I have used a number of times because of my confidence in myself as a discriminating collector.

To begin with prices are all over the map because the only requirement is the seller describe their item accurately.

Your holder is old and a good selling point with some buyers who prefer that vintage look. There are others who might object that the holder is neither of the top two TPGS.

I am not big on gold but it is hard not to really like gold that is over a hundred years old and still retains its beauty minus the usual wear and tear.

If I were you, I believe depending on the size of the estate, I'd go for a reputable auction house or try my luck selling directly to the public via eBay.  Believe me, if you are not inclined to have things drawn out, you may want to check prevailing prices as you've done, take approximately 30% off the Fair Market Offer as a rule of thumb and see how the market reacts.  Special note:  Gold prices have fallen and you may wish to wait.  However, if waiting is not an option, coins are not your thing, and you have more pressing matters to attend to, I see no harm in checking sheets to see exactly where you stand.  The worst enemy of a collector, or owner of a good coin, is feeling rushed. Do your due diligence and take your time making a decision.  And listen carefully to what the experts, many of whom have not offered their views yet, have to say.  And good luck!

Edited by Quintus Arrius
Correct typos/grammar
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13 hours ago, Quintus Arrius said:

"Coins holdered by other grading services are not eligible for CrossOver and must be removed from their holders and submitted raw (not holdered), or they may be submitted in their holders if they are accompanied by NGC's Consent to Remove Coin(s) from Holder(s) Form."

But the whole point of a crossover is that is it won't cross, it gets returned to you in the original unopened holder.  It is getting cracked out no matter what to be processed it isn't really a crossover it's a cracked out raw coin with them doing the cracking.

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15 hours ago, Conder101 said:

But the whole point of a crossover is that is it won't cross, it gets returned to you in the original unopened holder.  It is getting cracked out no matter what to be processed it isn't really a crossover it's a cracked out raw coin with them doing the cracking.

Indubitably (and I am not about to argue with someone who has never been challenged successfully before) but I simply wanted to point out that if you have an encapsulated coin from an unknown source -- there is an app for that: an approved procedure that many members may not be aware of.

On the plus side, although crack-outs run counter to my religious convictions, there is a case to be made that submitting a coin encapsulated by another TPGS reeks of an appearance of impropriety, i.e., if A has declared it to be an AU-58, maybe we ought to use that as the baseline and depart from the opinion rendered if the evidence suggests it.  I must say you raise a valid point.

Edit:  I would be remiss in my duty to be a responsible collector if I failed to consider the possibility of a collector returning the label of a cracked-out coin is nil consequently skewing the population or census of a coin toward the never-never land of inaccuracy and distrust.

Edited by Quintus Arrius
1% inspiration; 99% perspiration
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14 hours ago, Conder101 said:

But the whole point of a crossover is that is it won't cross, it gets returned to you in the original unopened holder.  It is getting cracked out no matter what to be processed it isn't really a crossover it's a cracked out raw coin with them doing the cracking.

on the reverse do you think the three oclock rim hit would make it a damaged coin?  or too small   it looks like an au58 or 55 at the lowest to me.

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1 hour ago, dollarfan said:

on the reverse do you think the three oclock rim hit would make it a damaged coin?  or too small   it looks like an au58 or 55 at the lowest to me.

The rim you are directing the congregation's attention to at 3 o' clock appears to be a part of the protective plastic in which the coin is entombed.

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