• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Proof ASE's possible grades ?
1 1

34 posts in this topic

The odds are very high of PF69 or PF70, however it may be possible to buy those coins already graded at or less then the cost to buy and send for grading.   Also are you just doing your own set or is this for a registry set, I ask because proof coins may not be allowed in an UNC registry set so be sure you check the rules first if you want these for a registry set.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same question. The answer I found was this:

Graded Moderns

Today’s bullion coins are struck incredibly sharp from much more sophisticated minting presses. The coins are immediately placed in plastic and bought in large quantities by dealers. Many of these coins are then shipped directly to the Professional Coin Grading Service (PCGS) and the Numismatic Guaranty Company (NGC) to be graded. Since the strikes are so precise and these coins have never been touched by human hands—let alone been circulated—many of them grade in excellent condition: MS70 or at least MS69. The same is true with proof coins. They often grade PR70 or PR69.

NGC has special instructions for grading 2021 ASE proof coins. You must ship the coins, in the sealed original mint packaging and hope!

https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/8804/2021-w-proof-silver-eagles/
 

I was very fortunate to have just received a 2021 West Point mint ASE! Which I bought in the first few minutes of the sale which sold out in 8 minutes!

of course, I can’t look at it, so I am sending and hoping. Either way a PR69 or PR70 will really appreciate due to the very limited minting of these last 2021 ASE coins.

I have seen them graded PR70 for $700 already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW thanx for all the great, helpful feedback (especially about registry) ! I guess my only question is if the odds are good why are people selling proofs cheap when they could pay 40 bucks for grading and double or triple value. Thanx again for the help to a newbie. I also guess the  strikes have gotten better with technology  and if I'm looking at 93 and 94 , the sharpness may have been less precise ? I will see because I did buy a 1990 and its being graded now LOL. Based off that I may gamble and purchase 93 and 94 and send in for grading. Ebay sellers gouge prices a lot of times. I am willing to pay little over book for graded coin but sometimes listings are ridiculous. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pardon me, gentleman, but I have re-read this entire thread three times and nowhere have I seen a definitive correlation between grading and acceptance to a Set Registry. And exactly how do Set Registries accommodate coins that are accompanied by Certificates of Authenticity?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanx again for the great advice / information :) I am missing 93 and 94 from a complete 70 set but I have purchased some proofs because some early years are very expensive as MS70 but the PR70 are less expensive. I realize this "hybrid" set of MS70, PR70, and different mint locations wouldn't qualify for registry. I just want to complete for personal desire. I have an all MS69 completed :) All thoughts, advice or information is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ldhall said:

Thanx again for the great advice / information :) I am missing 93 and 94 from a complete 70 set but I have purchased some proofs because some early years are very expensive as MS70 but the PR70 are less expensive. I realize this "hybrid" set of MS70, PR70, and different mint locations wouldn't qualify for registry. I just want to complete for personal desire. I have an all MS69 completed :) All thoughts, advice or information is greatly appreciated.

The best advice I can give you is don’t get too wrapped up in the label game. There is nothing wrong with a standard brown label. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Ray, USMC said:

Quintus I hope you find Morpheous's explanation more in line . Sometimes I feel encouragement is as important as information, just my opinion.

 

12 hours ago, Ray, USMC said:

Quintus I hope you find Morpheous's explanation more in line . Sometimes I feel encouragement is as important as information, just my opinion.

Your opinion is valid and his dissertation is breathtakingly thorough.  I need to be more like Just Bob: humble, ever courteous and well-grounded. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/8/2021 at 8:05 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

Pardon me, gentleman, but I have re-read this entire thread three times and nowhere have I seen a definitive correlation between grading and acceptance to a Set Registry. And exactly how do Set Registries accommodate coins that are accompanied by Certificates of Authenticity?

For the most part, they don’t.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spot probably developed after it was slabbed.  Looks like  carbon spot from some organic matter sitting on the coin.  No longer worth 70 money and is not covered by PCGS grading guarantee.  (Guarantee does not cover problems that develop after slabbing.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Conder101 said:

Spot probably developed after it was slabbed.  Looks like  carbon spot from some organic matter sitting on the coin.  No longer worth 70 money and is not covered by PCGS grading guarantee.  (Guarantee does not cover problems that develop after slabbing.)

This is why I will never chase 70’s on any bullion series, and the ASE least of all. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/8/2021 at 6:40 PM, ldhall said:

Ebay sellers gouge prices a lot of times.

Where there is no "make offer" provision or on-going bidding with a "or buy now for [price]" or where response has been tepid, I press Contact the Seller tab and state directly (but humbly) "Gentlemen, If you can see your way clear to release this coin, etc. for [state your price] I will pay immediately." A novice, or private individual will very often want to dispose of his goods without further delay. A large firm with a solid reputation may agree to a five-to-ten percent reduction.  The very worst that can happen is you will get a lovely response stating price, particularly on bullion, is not subject to discount and represents "what we believe to be is it's fair market value." It never hurts to try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, ldhall said:

Could this happen with a reputable company such as Golden Eagle , JM Bullion, Ampex etc or just on eBay ? Hope this isn't an inapproiate question on this platform :)

Are you talking about the spot on the coin?  If so, it can happen to any coin.  Doesn't matter where you purchase it.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not only COULD this happen on any ASE, it most likely WILL happen eventually, and you will have absolutely no recourse from anyone. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/11/2021 at 4:59 PM, VKurtB said:

This is why I will never chase 70’s on any bullion series, and the ASE least of all. 

I think he is implying he bought it like that.  Usally, on dated coins, if a problem hasn't shown up when you purchase it it's highly unlikely to do so after you buy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, VKurtB said:

Not only COULD this happen on any ASE, it most likely WILL happen eventually, and you will have absolutely no recourse from anyone. 

I don't know about that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, GoldFinger1969 said:

I don't know about that.

It is endemic to the method of creating the blanks, hence you have no way to avoid them. Milk spots are going to happen. But you just go collect 70 grade coins if it makes you happy. I refuse. 

Edited by VKurtB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, VKurtB said:

It is endemic to the method of creating the blanks, hence you have no way to avoid them. Milk spots are going to happen. But you just go collect 70 grade coins if it makes you happy. I refuse. 

My point is if they haven't shown up after a few years -- say, 5 or 10 -- they are UNLIKELY to show up afterwards.

Big risk differences in buying a PF70 dates 2018 vs. 2008 vs. 1998.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, ldhall said:

I'm confused why do we collect something that will deterioate ?  

Amen, brother, but then again, virtually all copper and bronze coins will eventually go brown too. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
1 1