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Grading question
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52 posts in this topic

So I'm getting a few free grading opportunities for free. What should be at the top of the list? Best condition, Rarest,uniqueness ( coins that I know are under au bu are exceedingly unique from a numismatic standpoint, walking liberty V. seated liberty....curious about some really nice wheties I have also have a few privy 75 in quarter and silver dollar.......man I haven't a clue what I should send off. Any help.?

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I wouldn't know how to explain this to you if I even tried.

I guess Iike organization and that is why I chose to participate in the Set Registry. I began by filling the respective slots with encapsulated coins and am now [theoretically] upgrading. I don't know that I would want to go beyond saying that. [I once tried to get a TPGS to honor me with the lowest grade in existence but was unaware the date, at the very least, had to be legible.] Use your free grading credits wisely.  

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You got the coins and it's you who has to decide rocket23.  I would pick the ones I value the most.  Not what you or anybody else tells me but what I value the most.  Hope this helps and good luck to you.

Edited by Alex in PA.
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I've read that a good rule of thumb is to avoid getting A coin graded that sells for less than $100-$150.  Don't forget that it normally costs approx $50 +/- to get an individual coin graded, so it may not be wise to send in a low value or cleaned/damaged coin.  

Just my opinion

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the selling price or monetary value of a coin isnt the only or most likely reason for having a coin certified/graded....most coins are not purchased in the first place based on their selling price....

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18 minutes ago, zadok said:

most coins are not purchased in the first place based on their selling price..

Agreed.  At least with me.  I usually buy on 'eye appeal'.  I like beautiful coins; or maybe 'pretty' would be a better name.  

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yeppers.....many , many diff reasons to buy coins n equally many, many diff reasons to certify/grade them....authenication, concensus grading, historical documentation, registry inclusion, security, uniformity of display n many more...none of which have anything to do with selling price....totally agree with ur assessment bout "eye appeal" or the beauty of certain coins, afterall some r miniature works of art or mini sculptures....i.e. some of the italian issues of emanuelle III easily rival our own mercury dimes, liberty walking halves, liberty standing quarters, double eagle saints in their beauty n artistry, i personally find the italian 1908 1 lira in gem state far more artistic n appealing than the 1908 saint double eagle, but to each his own.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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As it stands I have at least 3 weeks to decide which 2 I will send off, as it were....That being said I really appreciate the response. I haven't even narrowed it down yet,lol. But as far as what I have to pick from. We are looking at an extensive American Eagle collection, over 20 standing libertis,100's of wheaties....more than 25 are actual proofs.One 1922 no D strong reverse, a myriad of mercury dimes.......and 30 some odd morgans.... including these.1978 cc 1895 ''o'' as well. As for pretty...all of the 5 peace dollars for sure.along with the privy 75's in quarter and a medal plus the ase.

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2 hours ago, zadok said:

...most coins are not purchased in the first place based on their selling price....

I don't think I agree. Maybe with "seasoned"collectors this is true, but given the number of new /novice collectors, and the huge amounts of advertising and marketing in the coin world, plus the number of people who buy coins strictly as an investment, I would think that the percentage of buyers whose primary criterion for purchase is selling price would be over 50%.

But, I have been wrong before.;)

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maybe....but i dont consider those buyers collectors in the true sense of the term, they r simply investors n speculators...personally dont think they truly add anything of value to the hobby, of course they supply the fodder that keeps the business aspect of numismatics running....guess it all comes down to why the individual is buying the coins in the first place....

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You might also consider coins that would benefit from slabbing, for instance, heavily counterfeited or altered coins, like a 1922 no D cent, that would be a big step up authenticated vs. a raw coin.

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2 hours ago, jtryka said:

You might also consider coins that would benefit from slabbing, for instance, heavily counterfeited or altered coins, like a 1922 no D cent, that would be a big step up authenticated vs. a raw coin.

good point , I have made a choice ...maybe this, and definitely a proof buffalo nickle...... 

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Select the coins that either, 1) will gain the most resale value from authentication, or 2) are subject to frequent alteration or counterfeiting. For just "looking pretty" coins, buy a few of the commercial slabs, print a nice label and enjoy the coin without wasting coupons or money.

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On 2/17/2021 at 9:56 PM, Oldhoopster said:

I've read that a good rule of thumb is to avoid getting A coin graded that sells for less than $100-$150.  Don't forget that it normally costs approx $50 +/- to get an individual coin graded, so it may not be wise to send in a low value or cleaned/damaged coin.  

Just my opinion

And an important consideration.

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6 hours ago, jtryka said:

You might also consider coins that would benefit from slabbing, for instance, heavily counterfeited or altered coins, like a 1922 no D cent, that would be a big step up authenticated vs. a raw coin.

I would definitely make that Twenty-Two one of the two.

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On 2/17/2021 at 1:49 PM, rocket23 said:

So I'm getting a few free grading opportunities for free. What should be at the top of the list? Best condition, Rarest,uniqueness ( coins that I know are under au bu are exceedingly unique from a numismatic standpoint, walking liberty V. seated liberty....curious about some really nice wheties I have also have a few privy 75 in quarter and silver dollar.......man I haven't a clue what I should send off. Any help.?

What are the circumstances under which you’re getting a “few free grading opportunities”? Regardless of your answer, I’d submit the ones that you think will benefit the most from grading. Among other considerations, that could be due to value, preservation, potential difference in value between a couple of different grade possibilities and coins that are frequently counterfeited.
 

A great many coins are submitted for grading, which don’t begin to merit the cost.

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8 minutes ago, MarkFeld said:

What are the circumstances under which you’re getting a “few free grading opportunities”? Regardless of your answer, I’d submit the ones that you think will benefit the most from grading. Among other considerations, that could be due to value, preservation, potential difference in value between a couple of different grade possibilities and coins that are frequently counterfeited.
 

A great many coins are submitted for grading, which don’t begin to merit the cost.

agreed they don't they are a free bee awarded to me from anacs..........leaning towards the 1922 and proof buffalo nickle as it stands right now.

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That nickel looks like a polished coin from the pictures and I would not submit it.  The 09 Lincoln is common, but popular and looks to be in good shape.  The large cent looks pitted and should not grade without caveat.  What does the weak D look like?  Still might be worth submitting if it's good.

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The Buffalo nickel isn’t a Proof and has been cleaned or polished. It’s worth less than $1. The other two coins are circulated, with the Large Cent looking cleaned, too.The color on part of the obverse of the 1909-VDB looks off, but maybe it’s the image. None are worth getting graded.

Edited by MarkFeld
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11 minutes ago, jtryka said:

That nickel looks like a polished coin from the pictures and I would not submit it.  The 09 Lincoln is common, but popular and looks to be in good shape.  The large cent looks pitted and should not grade without caveat.  What does the weak D look like?  Still might be worth submitting if it's good.

no it isn't worth it.....it'll be the vdb and a 1878 cc morgan ...both in for not being counterfeit, the 1909 isn't cleaned.....Of that I'm sure.Here's the 1878 cc

 

IMG-1119.jpg

IMG-1118.jpg

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28 minutes ago, MarkFeld said:

The Buffalo nickel isn’t a Proof and has been cleaned or polished. It’s worth less than $1. The other two coins are circulated and look cleaned, too. None are worth getting graded.

If what you've opined is true, and I implicitly trust the verdict of a highly revered member, I would be honored to offer the OP my own uncertified 1937 Buffalo (in slendid condition) which I was prepared to use as my last free grading credit until I apparently forfeited it when, with two months left to go, I declined to renew my membership ATS and my free credit was unceremoniously clawed back with no notice to me, and both my user name and password were stricken from the records.  I will post my nickel here, obverse and release, and if it meets with both the OP's and congregations' approval -- I will post it to you without delay free of charge. 

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29 minutes ago, Quintus Arrius said:

If what you've opined is true, and I implicitly trust the verdict of a highly revered member, I would be honored to offer the OP my own uncertified 1937 Buffalo (in slendid condition) which I was prepared to use as my last free grading credit until I apparently forfeited it when, with two months left to go, I declined to renew my membership ATS and my free credit was unceremoniously clawed back with no notice to me, and both my user name and password were stricken from the records.  I will post my nickel here, obverse and release, and if it meets with both the OP's and congregations' approval -- I will post it to you without delay free of charge. 

there is plenty of time.......I would think the nickle may be worth the actual cost of a grading, which I would pony up if the consensus agrees worthy....and the penny and dollar hold its course to the annac company, for what it's worth if sent to me, I'd send the nickle to ngc and absorb the fee's .

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5 hours ago, MarkFeld said:

The Buffalo nickel isn’t a Proof and has been cleaned or polished. It’s worth less than $1. The other two coins are circulated and look cleaned, too. None are worth getting graded.

If what you've opined is true, and I implicitly trust the verdict of a highly revered member, I would be honored to offer the OP my own uncertified 1937 Buffalo (in slendid condition) which I was prepared to use as my last free grading credit until I apparently forfeited it when, with two months left to go, I declined to renew my membership ATS and my free credit was unceremoniously clawed back with no notice to me, and both my user name and password were stricken from the records.  I will post my nickel here, obverse and release, and if it meets with both the OP's and congregations' approval -- I will post it to you without delay free of charge. 20210219_183428.thumb.jpg.d1ace5b5047e40a9f08762798dccc372.jpg20210219_184112.thumb.jpg.33024185c2c70e6f3b741fa986914ca4.jpg

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