1914-D Wheat Penny 1 1

[GoldBear150]

After looking the penny's Mint-mark is a little close to the number 9. I'm having a hard time if the penny is real or fake.

I weight the penny on my scale and it turned out to be 3.1g.

Any insight would help i appreciated it.

[Greenstang]

Sorry to say but that is a Chinese counterfeit.

[RWB]

Counterfeit...and minted sideways, too !

Probably from China, but might also be from Colorado or Peru.

[GoldBear150]

Sorry for the pictures being side-ways. Well another coin into my fake coins album. I have some other coins that i have a hard time as well going over. I will post it here because it's my first time seeing them.

[GoldBear150]

[Greenstang]

Quote

Probably from China, but might also be from Colorado or Peru.

This one is from China. There is a marker that denotes a Chinese counterfeit.

[Greenstang]

Goldbear-

If you are going to post more coins for revue, make a separate thread for each one. It causes confusion when there is more than one per thread.

[GoldBear150]

I apologize Greenstang. I thought i could put the other pictures in here because i do not want to create more threads on the board.

[JKK]

12 minutes ago, GoldBear150 said:

I apologize Greenstang. I thought i could put the other pictures in here because i do not want to create more threads on the board.

The thought is courteous and the logic is understandable, but here's the reason for going ahead and creating more threads.

If there are five coins in this thread, for example, someone making an observation must specify which of the five one refers to. When there are only twelve posts, that's no big deal. If there come to be forty--and that is more likely with multiple coins, since there's more to talk about--one has to root through all those posts just to catch up on the past discussion and be most relevant. Not sure about anyone else, but I typically won't do that. I might not be the only one. That works against the basic goal of obtaining help; no bueno for you.

So while we understand a poster means well by not wanting to create a bunch of different threads, on this forum it really is okay to post one coin per thread--even if it seems counter-intuitive and like that would be annoying (on some forums it would be). We read it, discuss, answer if we can, at some point an answer is had, discussion ebbs, and that one slips down the list unless someone zombifies it (usually after a search for something similar).

For example, your half cent is brutally cleaned with serious damage (sorry to say; I love half cents). Which half cent? you might ask. I'd then have to scroll up, find the photo, and say which one (the 1829 in this case). What if there were two 1829s in the thread? Then I'd have to try and say which. Does that help clarify?

[GoldBear150]

5 minutes ago, JKK said:

The thought is courteous and the logic is understandable, but here's the reason for going ahead and creating more threads.

If there are five coins in this thread, for example, someone making an observation must specify which of the five one refers to. When there are only twelve posts, that's no big deal. If there come to be forty--and that is more likely with multiple coins, since there's more to talk about--one has to root through all those posts just to catch up on the past discussion and be most relevant. Not sure about anyone else, but I typically won't do that. I might not be the only one. That works against the basic goal of obtaining help; no bueno for you.

So while we understand a poster means well by not wanting to create a bunch of different threads, on this forum it really is okay to post one coin per thread--even if it seems counter-intuitive and like that would be annoying (on some forums it would be). We read it, discuss, answer if we can, at some point an answer is had, discussion ebbs, and that one slips down the list unless someone zombifies it (usually after a search for something similar).

For example, your half cent is brutally cleaned with serious damage (sorry to say; I love half cents). Which half cent? you might ask. I'd then have to scroll up, find the photo, and say which one (the 1829 in this case). What if there were two 1829s in the thread? Then I'd have to try and say which. Does that help clarify?

Thank you JKK i understand it now, I will do that from now on. i will create each coin from there own separate thread. One question JKK do you guys recommend a book for beginners watching out for counterfeits? I'm still new to the hobby and i have blue and red books 2020.

[DWLange]

I won't say for certain that the 1914-D is an outright counterfeit, but certainly the mintmark is the wrong style and size, so it may be a genuine 1914(P) cent with an added mintmark. Here's how the real thing looks:

 

[JKK]

45 minutes ago, GoldBear150 said:

Thank you JKK i understand it now, I will do that from now on. i will create each coin from there own separate thread. One question JKK do you guys recommend a book for beginners watching out for counterfeits? I'm still new to the hobby and i have blue and red books 2020.

Well, you've already done one of the things everyone would recommend by having the books. The only book I have on counterfeits is one on ancients, so I can hope someone else can step up on that (I might buy the suggested book myself).

One thing to remember is that very rarely will we say openly how we know a coin is counterfeit, because we have reason to suspect that active fakers post their efforts hoping to learn how to improve them. The drag there is that non-fakers with legit honest questions end up not getting details because the active fakers can also read and educate themselves without posting. The situation sucks, but we trust that honest posters will understand our desire not to help the bad guys.

With that said, if I were you, here's what I would do in the case of any suspected fake: search online for known authentic examples, and compare yours to them, looking carefully for minutiae. Counterfeits tend to be muddy and have sloppy work, especially on lettering and mint marks; as Mr. Lange pointed out, the latter can at times be in the wrong place. Sometimes, such as with 09-S VDBs, there are only so many die combinations known, and all authentic coins will match one of those. Always look for edge seams, which can be signs of cast counterfeits. Any uncertified coin that seems an expensive rarity needs very close and skeptical scrutiny. In the end, this is a long journey in which you build the knowledge gradually so that you come to understand what the real thing looks like. Most counterfeits just look "off," and the learning process is iterative. Certain types, such as Trade Dollars and late 1800s Chinese silver rounds (among others) are so often faked that the skepticism is dialed up to 11. If you keep at it, over time you'll come to learn when one doesn't look right. Good hunting to you.

[GoldBear150]

I will do my best JKK. My father introduced me to the hobby it a 1oz silver kookaburra and a silver eagle. I understand that counterfeiters are really good at making fake merchandise been seeing that around in the 2000s and till present day from working at my father's business career. I had one customer brought in a fake Morgan dollar that was graded Ms-63 and it turn out to be fake after we did some research and ask a couple of friends we know. Nonetheless i appreciate it.