sending 8 coins for grading , Please advise if you think any aren't worth grading 0

[cantnotneither]

[cantnotneither]

[cantnotneither]

Sorry, I thought I rotated them all, poor quality pics with the glare and a real blurry one.  Anyways I'll do better next time, I'm a newb, again my apologies1

 

Edited November 1, 2020 by cantnotneither

[Coinbuf]

Best of luck on the submission, as you noted the photos are not good enough to be able to give you any feedback on if there are any issues to be seen.

[RWB]

Your 1893 dollar looks cleaned. The 1921 Peace dollar is circulated and not worth the grading cost (it is nowhere close to "Gem"). Not sure the 1879-CC is authentic. Others far too blurry to tell anything.

[Greenstang]

Could you please show a closeup of the date and mm on the 1879CC Morgan. That is a four figure coin if genuine and has been heavily counterfeited. As stated the 1921 Peace Dollar is not worth much more than bullion so certainly not worth getting graded. Can't make out any details on the others.

[rocket23]

you'll get an answer when you auction off the coins.......even g4 coins have a price ABOVE SPOT.

[zadok]

...disregard the above advice u received on ur 1921 peace dollar, the poster is uninformed, while not an extremely rare coin it is a semi-key for the series n the difference in numerical grades can result in as much as a $50 difference which more than offsets the cost of having certified, plus the additional benefit of establishing it as a genuine issue n not a fake... 

[RWB]

9 hours ago, zadok said:

...disregard the above advice u received on ur 1921 peace dollar, the poster is uninformed, while not an extremely rare coin it is a semi-key for the series n the difference in numerical grades can result in as much as a $50 difference which more than offsets the cost of having certified, plus the additional benefit of establishing it as a genuine issue n not a fake... 

Is the fair market value of the coin $250 or greater? If yes, it might be a "grading' candidate. Based on the photo, the 1921 is not uncirculated and has average detail. Retail value estimates (PCGS Price Guide) for an AU coin are about $215-240 which seems to be the high-end grade for the OPs coin. One might expect 80% of retail if selling. This suggests "grading" will be of marginal dollar value, although it might make it easier to sell or trade the coin in the future.

Apologies to 'zadok'  for being so "uninformed."

[rocket23]

Food for thought. My 3 coins were graded. 2 au cleaned. And the last one. Ms 62. I would gather. I expected a few cleaned grades the ms 62 is a pleasant surprise. (All 1964 quarters). 

[cantnotneither]

16 hours ago, Greenstang said:

Could you please show a closeup of the date and mm on the 1879CC Morgan. That is a four figure coin if genuine and has been heavily counterfeited. As stated the 1921 Peace Dollar is not worth much more than bullion so certainly not worth getting graded. Can't make out any details on the others.

 Don’t know if these are any better?

[Greenstang]

Sorry but we have to see all the detail to make any assessment. The obverse has too much glare and the reverse is just too blurry. Seeing you are not able to get any clear pictures, I suggest just sending it in with the others because as  I stated earler if it is genuine, that is a four figure coin. Let us know how you make out.

[zadok]

...FMV is not the sole determinate on whether any coin is worth the cost of getting certified/graded, there r various good reasons to have coins graded...one is to have the coins certified as genuine if they r of higher interest or collectability, another is to get a more precise determination of actual grade, in many instances a difference of 1-2 points can equate to multiples of the grading fees...using a threshold of $200-$250 to decide whether a coin should be graded is simply obtuse, the actual financial depreciation of the cost of grading is not determined by FMV its more determined by what one paid for the coin, the coin could have been a gift or purchased for significantly less than its FMV, hence the $22 grading fee is less consequential...in the instance being referenced, a 1921 Peace dollar, even in very low grades the coin routinely sells for $100+, it doesn't need to be au or unc to warrant the benefits of being graded...which was the point of my post to start with...not all coins r worth getting graded, pure bullion related coins or common date lower grade coins or coins valued at close to $25 certainly would not be worth the grading fees...if u purchased a coin for $250 that has a FMV of $250 n then pay a $22 grading fee n sell the coin for its FMV, yes u will realize a loss, but yes u r most likely not an astute financial wizard...the 1921 Peace dollar does not fall into these last categories n unless u happened to have paid FMV or more most likely warrants paying the grading fee...using a $200-$250 FMV as a cut off to determine whether a coin warrants grading is not a sound rule of thumb...

[RWB]

Many excuses for not handling coin authentication in a consistent and reasonable manner - but if that's what some want to do, fine. A threshold based on an authentication cost of 10% of FMV - which is the only external value marker one has - makes sense. It permits the inexperienced collector to put aside some of the emotional baggage that accompanies a shiny object, and look on a coin with a more real-world view. There might be specific coins and reasons why one wants to take a different approach, but long-term it is not a "policy" that benefits. (Dealers junk bins are filled with such slabbed shiny objects.) It's a matter of using reasonable self control to benefit application of hobby resources - i.e., getting the most from available funds and time.

Hobby message boards are filled with inexperienced collectors champing at the bit to have their 1990 proof half dollar slabbed and graded. Few stop to think that the whole 1990 set can be bought for less than the expense of slabbing just one coin.

As for the specific coin, it does not appear to be uncirculated, which therefor limits its retail value to about $240 or less. Slabbing it will not change the retail value upward - it is merely a sunk cost. For 1921 Peace dollars, certified authentication is presently of only limited utility. Any minimally competent coin dealer can identify a fake 1921; Peace dollar collectors are also reasonably competent at this for 1921s.

Edited November 2, 2020 by RWB

[rocket23]

I Slabbed these just for the sake of curiosity  they looked authentic  I have no problem with the results.

 

 

[James_OldeTowne]

From the OP's post - and of course, the normal caveat of going just by photos - I would only consider certifying the 1893 dollar.

[RWB]

$75+ for three common date quarters? Amazing.

[rocket23]

13 minutes ago, RWB said:

$75+ for three common date quarters? Amazing.

How So? That one would spend money otherwise lost at the bar or lottery? At the very least it gained value to the owner.........obviously not you.

[RWB]

I'm not the owner.

 

[James_OldeTowne]

There's likely some educational value in getting those certified (i.e., "what does cleaning look like?"), but that's a fairly expensive education in the big scheme of things.

[rocket23]

Eh, it will be worth it. Knowledge beats ignorance every time. 

[zadok]

...not all coins warrant the expense of certification, i.e. the cost of certification may not be recoverable if/when sold, having said that not all coins r certified with resale value as the goal...its ur coin n ur money n ur reasons to want it certified, much like having the extra large milkshake instead of the medium, if it makes u feel good go for it, we don't need new cars but we buy them anyway, over n over again...when posters cant present valid reasoning for their uninformed positions they usually retreat to generalized rationale to shore up their opinions, certainly not abnormal actions for many of the threads in this forum...there r literally thousands of collectible coins with FMV under $200 dollars that r certified year after year for various warranted reasons, authentication, verification of variety, better access to  resale marketability, grade determination, presentation, uniformity of collection n many other personal reasons that have little to no relationship to FMV...coins need not be uncirculated nor high dollar value to warrant TPG n certification, recovery of certification fees r not the end all for many if not most true collectors...

[rocket23]

Money lost ,if you will, can be recovered with other coin sales. And the graded coins still remain. 

[Conder101]

On 11/2/2020 at 9:19 AM, RWB said:

Apologies to 'zadok'  for being so "uninformed."

I believe zadok was referring to the comment by Greenstang that the 1921 wasn't worth much more than bullion value.

[e1cnr]

If you are buying raw coins, you want to be able to see how you are doing and if you need a 'correction'. One way is to send in a batch to get graded.

 

Especially if you do not have the time or money to take a grading class.

[Krisferr]

On 11/1/2020 at 12:15 PM, cantnotneither said:

I have a question about a coin too how do I get help please 

[Krisferr]

Please help me is this a 1943 s bronze or copper penny 

[Just Bob]

1 hour ago, Krisferr said:

Please help me is this a 1943 s bronze or copper penny 

The picture is much too blurry to determine anything accurately.

[Modwriter]

Submit am all.😎☘

[Edward Plato]

While we're on grading questions, please help me out with these dimes. I am getting ready to send a few to be graded and quite frankly I am tired of being disappointed by the results. The one at the bottom, a '61 proof, came back as a 67 cameo. What puzzles me is why it did not receive the full torch or full bands designation. I am sending out a few more and in my eyes they are full bands, the bottom line is weak but visible all the way across. Am I wasting my time & money sending these?

 

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