Advice on grading my coins. 0

[Togola]

What grade would this coin appear to be? I would like to learn how to "guesstimate" the grade of my coins. Any suggestions on where to begin???? Also, this coin is not in a case or protector. Is it worth protecting?

Edited February 17, 2020 by Togola

[B.C]

What does the reverse look like 

Yes it appears it should be protected if not slabbed 

[Matt_dac]

All pre-1933 US gold coins are worth getting graded and slabbed (choose our hosts or PCGS). 

[Conder101]

On 2/18/2020 at 1:18 PM, Matt_dac said:

All pre-1933 US gold coins are worth getting graded and slabbed

I consider this questionable.  A lot of even pre-1933 gold isn't worth much over melt (especially if it is damaged).  It is worth a small amount over melt raw, and after paying $30 to $50 to have it slabbed it is still worth a small amount over melt.  In those cases all you have accomplished is to either eliminate any profit, or hand most of it to the TPG.  For a lot of pre-1933 gold the only reason for slabbing it is to make sure it is genuine.  And if it won't net a significant amount over melt plus the cost of slabbing why bother?

[Matt_dac]

17 hours ago, Conder101 said:

I consider this questionable.  A lot of even pre-1933 gold isn't worth much over melt (especially if it is damaged).  It is worth a small amount over melt raw, and after paying $30 to $50 to have it slabbed it is still worth a small amount over melt.  In those cases all you have accomplished is to either eliminate any profit, or hand most of it to the TPG.  For a lot of pre-1933 gold the only reason for slabbing it is to make sure it is genuine.  And if it won't net a significant amount over melt plus the cost of slabbing why bother?

I was thinking more along the lines of a non-collector (applies in this case) having a more reliable baseline to evaluate the value of inherited coins.  I definitely agree that circulated or low MS non-key date gold would be close to or at melt but if he had a high grade and/or a key date the grading would provide some insurance of getting full value. 

A less expensive option would be to get good pictures of the coins and post here.  We would happily identify those worth the cost of grading vs. those that would go for close to/melt.