Unopened lincoln cents
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32 posts

Hello all! I just found some exciting unopened lincoln cent rolls at an estate sale. I'm afraid to open them, but just from looking at the enders I see some amazing woody's and rainbow toned cents. I was under the impression that most rainbow toning was AT? Should I open these and if so what should I do to protect them ie. Wear gloves? I have 2x2 holders ready to go. What do you guys think?

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You can wear disposable cloth gloves, or they also make these little disposable rubber fingertips I call leprechaun condoms. It's also good to have a pair of plastic coin tongs.

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What is your ultimate objective? Do you want to make money off of them? Are you hoping to find some high grade examples, or some superbly toned pieces? Are you looking for individual pieces to add to your collection? Plan to pass some down for posterity? The answer to these, and other questions will help determine what you should do with them. On one hand, if you open them, they will never be "unopened rolls" again. On the other hand, if they remain unopened, you will never know what is inside. I personally would sit on them for a while, just so I was sure that if I finally did decide to open them I would not regret the decision later. ( I have sold, traded, and given away several coins that I did not think that I needed at the time, but now wish that I had kept. I try to think long and hard about irreversible decisions, now.)

A few answers: no, a rainbow toned coin is not necessarily AT. Coins toned in mint bags, Wayte Raymond albums, early mint sets, bank rolls, etc., are perfectly market acceptable, and many beautiful examples have been posted on this forum over the years.

Yes, I recommend wearing cotton gloves, and handling coins over a padded surface. You can never be too careful.

Congrats on the score, and I hope you enjoy the coins, and the experience,  however you choose to proceed.

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Hey guys thank you so much for the responses! I have 6 total, all 1954s and all unopened. Well, 5 now because I did open one. I dont like to sell my coins and I've never sold any but maybe sometime down the road. The opened roll I'm going to search, so far 3 of the BIE errors and all woody/rainbow toned. I know people love the woody's but does the rainbow tone detract from the value? They are so toned some look fake. I'll post some more pictures. Are there any 1954 s that i should be on the lookout for? I just started collecting a few months ago!

Ps. That second picture, the N has a huge break on the bottom with the piece next to it like a "cud". 

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Looks like you have some decisions to make.

That piece below the N would not be a cud. A cud has to involve the rim. A closeup of that area may determine what it is.

Edited by Greenstang

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Chances are that if all the coins are toned this is not a true unopened roll as usually only the end coins and perhaps one or two next to the end coins would have been exposed to the elements enough to be toned, I'm not saying its not possible but unlikely.  As far as the color goes these days toned is in and many collectors (not me I prefer mint red) will pay big money for properly certified toned coins.  If you think the toned coins you have look legit then I would suggest sending in the 3-5 best most colorful examples for grading to see if NGC agrees that these are natural or at least market acceptable.  If they grade at least MS65 or better you have a shot at selling them for a profit.

 

54-s is a super common coin as tons were saved in rolls at the time, if you look at the pop NGC has certified 7,248 in MS66RD and 875 in MS67RDand prices range from under $20 for MS66 coins and under $75 for the MS67's.  The RB and BN pops are lower but have been rising due to the increased demand for toned coins which is a more recent development in coin collecting and those coins are bringing $50 and up depending on the grade and color.  There are no significant varieties for this date that would be worth saving/selling.  The woodies while very cool will never have much value or widespread appeal, only a small handful of collectors would have any interest in a 54-s Woodie so I'd put those in 2X2's and see if you can find one of those few buyers on ebay.

 

Please update with more pics as you go and best of luck with whatever you decide to do with them.

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Looks like you have some decisions to make.

That piece below the N would not be a cud A cud has to involve the rim.

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I will be posting more pics. And yes, the first 2 to 3 coins on each end are toned, the rest are ranging from shiny RD to BRN. A few random pink/purple toned but only along the rims. 

 

And the last pic I posted, the bottom of the N is broken off and spun 90° and stamped right below. I'll be post a close up pic after I finish lunch!

Screenshot_20190919-133841_Gallery.jpg

Edited by Mc10139
Add pictures

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3 hours ago, Just Bob said:

recommend wearing cotton gloves, and handling coins over a padded surface

Normally I never wear gloves, they're not really recommended, BUT if you must wear cotton gloves, then you absolutely must have that padded surface below. The reduced dexterity with gloves makes the pad a true asset to have.

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Is this considered die polish? The entire bust of lincoln bottom edge has these makes and no edges. 20190919_150502.thumb.jpg.401c7d6d1fb41a2cea27e7234301531e.jpg

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2 hours ago, Mc10139 said:

I will be posting more pics. And yes, the first 2 to 3 coins on each end are toned, the rest are ranging from shiny RD to BRN. A few random pink/purple toned but only along the rims. 

 

And the last pic I posted, the bottom of the N is broken off and spun 90° and stamped right below. I'll be post a close up pic after I finish lunch!

Screenshot_20190919-133841_Gallery.jpg

That "N" was not minted that way. It has been damaged at some point, after leaving the press.

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44 minutes ago, Mc10139 said:

Double mint mark or S over D?

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I'd go with Die Chip since the 5 and the S both exhibit the blob.  Not as exciting as an RPM but a sign of extended die usage.

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Agree with both of the above members.

The N has been gouged, you can see the displaced metal. The date and MM both have die chips.

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