1986D Roosevelt Dime 0

[Hess4]

Is this possibly doubling in IGWT and not mechanical doubling? I appreciate any input given!

As always thank you for your help!

>Tracy 

[JKK]

I don't see anything that looks like doubling, even mechanical. There are a couple of intriguing bumps at 10:45 on the reverse edge, but I don't know how to interpret those, and I doubt they would confer major value if they were mint-originated (as opposed to crudulations that I might not be seeing as such).

[Hess4]

3 minutes ago, JKK said:

I don't see anything that looks like doubling, even mechanical. There are a couple of intriguing bumps at 10:45 on the reverse edge, but I don't know how to interpret those, and I doubt they would confer major value if they were mint-originated (as opposed to crudulations that I might not be seeing as such).

I’m sorry I’m down to one good eye after a recent  accident, hopefully not for long but anyway I guess my one good eye isn’t very good either! Lol.  I don’t think I will ever be able to figure out the double dies unless of course it’s very prominent which most are I know , but those that are close to mechanical or very subtle, I believe I’m a lost cause! Believe it or not I’m really studying and watching videos trying to get it down. Thank you as always for your time and info!

Tracy

[JKK]

Always glad to help. One problem with photos, which may or may not be surmountable, is that sometimes a shaded side of a letter looks like something else. Taken in a different light or from a different angle, the same thing might not be visible. In any case, mechanical doubling looks like shelfy ghost images, and the second image is always lower in profile. That's what gives it the shelf-like effect. If it's a real double die, neither image will be shelfy or much lower than the other; in all the true double dies I've seen at least. While both images may not be the same level of relief, those I have seen are similar enough to each other in level of relief that both have the same type of rounding or flattened top, at about the same height.

So if you have one full profile image, and one that's like a ghostly lower profile shadow, pretty sure you can say it's mechanical and thus happened at striking. If you have two full profile images, that probably happened at the die's creation from the hub.

[Mohawk]

6 hours ago, Hess4 said:

I’m sorry I’m down to one good eye after a recent  accident, hopefully not for long but anyway I guess my one good eye isn’t very good either! Lol.  I don’t think I will ever be able to figure out the double dies unless of course it’s very prominent which most are I know , but those that are close to mechanical or very subtle, I believe I’m a lost cause! Believe it or not I’m really studying and watching videos trying to get it down. Thank you as always for your time and info!

Tracy

Tracy....

You are not a lost cause.  These things can be tough to learn.  Though I no longer collect US coins at all (I much prefer my Roman coins) but I do sell them.  When I first got started selling, you wouldn't believe how long it took me to discern the differences between the 1970-S Small and Large Date Lincoln Cents.  There's a huge pricing difference between the two....the 1970-S Small Date is a key in the Lincoln series in both Proof and Business Strike formats and commands a good premium.  The 1970-S Large Date is nothing special in both formats aside from some doubled dies.  One day, after trying to figure this out for months and looking at many pictures and examples of both types, it just clicked in my head and now I can tell the difference even in some bad eBay photos!  If you keep working at it, you'll figure this out, too.  I think you definitely have what it takes.....I wouldn't tell you this if I didn't really mean it.  I've seen people who are hopeless in this hobby.  You're not one of them.  What I would do is this: let your eye heal up, because that injury is going to impede your learning process here, and then keep reading articles and looking at coins.  I really think that you'll have that "Eureka!" moment like I did with the 1970-S Small and Large Date cents.

I hope that this helps!

~Tom

Edited June 12, 2019 by Mohawk
Typo

[Hess4]

2 hours ago, JKK said:

Always glad to help. One problem with photos, which may or may not be surmountable, is that sometimes a shaded side of a letter looks like something else. Taken in a different light or from a different angle, the same thing might not be visible. In any case, mechanical doubling looks like shelfy ghost images, and the second image is always lower in profile. That's what gives it the shelf-like effect. If it's a real double die, neither image will be shelfy or much lower than the other; in all the true double dies I've seen at least. While both images may not be the same level of relief, those I have seen are similar enough to each other in level of relief that both have the same type of rounding or flattened top, at about the same height.

So if you have one full profile image, and one that's like a ghostly lower profile shadow, pretty sure you can say it's mechanical and thus happened at striking. If you have two full profile images, that probably happened at the die's creation from the hub.

Thank you so much that explaination  you just gave helped me more than all the pics and videos I’ve been watching and studying! It really made things click a little better believe or not! Again as always thank you for all the help!

>Tracy 

[Hess4]

1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

Tracy....

You are not a lost cause.  These things can be tough to learn.  Though I no longer collect US coins at all (I much prefer my Roman coins) but I do sell them.  When I first got started selling, you wouldn't believe how long it took me to discern the differences between the 1970-S Small and Large Date Lincoln Cents.  There's a huge pricing difference between the two....the 1970-S Small Date is a key in the Lincoln series and commands a good premium.  The 1970-S Large Date is nothing special in both formats aside from some doubled dies.  One day, after trying to figure this our for months and looking at many pictures and examples of both types, it just clicked in my head and now I can tell the difference even in some bad eBay photos!  If you keep working at it, you'll figure this out, too.  I think you definitely have what it takes.....I wouldn't tell you this if I didn't really mean it.  I've seen people who are hopeless in this hobby.  You're not one of them.  What I would do is this: let your eye heal up, because that injury is going to impede your learning process here, and then keep reading articles and looking at coins.  I really think that you'll have that "Eureka!" moment like I did with the 1970-S Small and Large Date cents.

I hope that this helps!

~Tom

Thank you as always Mohawk! It’s hard for me to stop even to let my eye heal, especially when I can’t do much of anything else right now, but I will try. Lol

That explanation JKK gave made a lot of sense, so I’m hoping it sticks with me. Thank you as always for being so kind and patient and pushing us newbies always in the right direction! 

>Tracy 

[Mohawk]

38 minutes ago, Hess4 said:

Thank you as always Mohawk! It’s hard for me to stop even to let my eye heal, especially when I can’t do much of anything else right now, but I will try. Lol

That explanation JKK gave made a lot of sense, so I’m hoping it sticks with me. Thank you as always for being so kind and patient and pushing us newbies always in the right direction! 

>Tracy 

No problem Tracy.  I'm always glad to help out newbies, especially when they show promise. 

[JKK]

When you look at a real 1955 double die image, for example, the distinction becomes very clear. Note how, in that image (one of the most dramatic double dies ever), there's some valid question which image would be considered the primary relative to the main device. The impressions are not of exactly equal height, but you can see that they are both high enough profile that, by themselves, you would consider them normal. Of course, since they come in pairs overlaying one another, normal isn't happening here. But this, or something like it, is the sort of thing you are seeking with a real double die.

Hope your eye improves. Definitely let it heal. Eye injuries simply must not be messed around with. I managed to put a gouge into my right eyeball years back (would have damaged my sight had I not hit the white only). Very frightening and painful. Two eyes are preferable for collecting, and they can't issue you new ones, so the coins will wait if need be.

[Mohawk]

12 minutes ago, JKK said:

 

Hope your eye improves. Definitely let it heal. Eye injuries simply must not be messed around with. I managed to put a gouge into my right eyeball years back (would have damaged my sight had I not hit the white only). Very frightening and painful. Two eyes are preferable for collecting, and they can't issue you new ones, so the coins will wait if need be.

That's the truth! I managed to scratch my left cornea pretty seriously at work around 16 years ago.  It was extremely painful and terrifying.  I wasn't sure if my eye would ever be right again.  It healed, but my left eye and right eye see differently now (correctable with different prescriptions for each eye in my glasses, thankfully) and I have little "floaters" in my vision in that eye now from the injury (I guess there's some protein fragments floating around in there according to my eye doctor), but it did heal up pretty well eventually.  Eye injuries need to be babied some.  Jonathan is right.....the coins will be there when you're healed up, if need be.