Coin grading questing
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How do you know if you have a coin that is good enough to be sent for grading?

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That depends on what your goal is.

If you want all the coins in a set to be slabbed or you just really like a coin, and you do not mind the cost, any coin is good enough.

If you want the cost of the grading to be made up in dollar value, then you need to estimate the grade, get a strong sense of authenticity, assess whether or not it's been cleaned or damaged, and then decide whether the likely grading outcome will pay for itself. I gather it costs about $60 all told to send a single piece in for grading, so I'm thinking such a coin would need a basic value in the high three figures or better.

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Why do you want to get your coins graded? Album sets are fun and each filler is exciting to add. You get into TPG grading and every addition seems short of it's calling.

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40 minutes ago, Six Mile Rick said:

Why do you want to get your coins graded? Album sets are fun and each filler is exciting to add. You get into TPG grading and every addition seems short of it's calling.

Album sets are fun, Rick.  But, if you're collecting high grade coins that you do not want to tone over time, then albums aren't so great.  One of my favorite things to do is hunt cameo and ultra cameo coins from Canadian Proof Like and Uncirculated Sets.  Without cameo, many of these coins aren't worth a whole bunch but with cameo, that situation changes.  And, for me anyway, I don't want these coins to tone up.  I want them to stay brilliant and preserved as they are now.  So, I grade them to preserve them and often increase their value.  Just my .02 (two 1967 Dove Pennies!)

Edited by Mohawk
Didn't notice I had caps lock on.

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WK007,

 First off --- Welcome to the forum!!

 It takes a trained eye to be a good grader of coins. Most coins are worth the cost of grading and lower. If you do not know how to grade properly you will have 1000's of dollars invested into 100's in value.

 Find a local coin dealer near by and get their opinion on submitting a few to NGC. 

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11 hours ago, Mohawk said:

Album sets are fun, Rick.  But, if you're collecting high grade coins that you do not want to tone over time, then albums aren't so great.  One of my favorite things to do is hunt cameo and ultra cameo coins from Canadian Proof Like and Uncirculated Sets.  Without cameo, many of these coins aren't worth a whole bunch but with cameo, that situation changes.  And, for me anyway, I don't want these coins to tone up.  I want them to stay brilliant and preserved as they are now.  So, I grade them to preserve them and often increase their value.  Just my .02 (two 1967 Dove Pennies!)

Tom,

 I don't have any Canadian coinage but I do have a load of 1965 to 1998 proof sets. I got into business strike coins and these proof sets have been sitting in a box here for 15 years or more. 80+ sets Full of Cameos and Ultra Cameo's --- sell for a good price or trade. :)

DSC_0001.JPG

Edited by Six Mile Rick

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Rick,

Thank you for the advice, I will do that.  Also, I am starting to create Album sets. My first one will be mercury dimes.  My grandparents left me a lot.  The Callings I am considering having graded are early 1900 silver dollar and half dollar.  I picked them because they have a little wear.  Thanks again.

 

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Hi Rick,

Wow that is a lot of US Proof Sets!  But you know me.....I only seek out certain years on those as any US stuff is for resale only with me as I don't collect it.  I don't think that lot's for me, but thank you for sharing it and good luck moving it!

~Tom

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Merc's are beautiful coins, good luck with your set.  Keep an eye out for the 1916-D or 1942 (look for the 1942/1 mint error) as these are the key coins worth more than the others and should definitely be graded/encapsulated even in low circulated condition.  If pushing your coins into an album (if that type) use a cloth so you are not damaging them with your fingerprint.  Only ever hold raw coins by the sides.  

 

As for knowing when a coin should be graded, the research about what you have is part of the fun!  Do a search in google for the coin series to learn which are the key coins, then search for sold prices (not the asking prices) in Ebay for those coins to get an idea.  You can also post pictures of them here for advice.   

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7 hours ago, Mohawk said:

Hi Rick,

Wow that is a lot of US Proof Sets!  But you know me.....I only seek out certain years on those as any US stuff is for resale only with me as I don't collect it.  I don't think that lot's for me, but thank you for sharing it and good luck moving it!

~Tom

Tom,

 I would guess that the proof sets in the pic that you would like are in the first row .  79 and 81 ( open top packages ). ;)

Edited by Six Mile Rick

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12 minutes ago, Six Mile Rick said:

Tom,

 I would guess that the proof sets in the pic that you would like are in the first row .  79 and 81 ( open top packages ). ;)

If I were able, I'd look them over but I'm sure that you've already checked them out for Type 2's :)  I also sometimes sell good cameo pieces from the 1968-1972 Blue Box Sets, when I can find them.  But that's pretty much it.  The Purple and Green Boxes are the real no-go's for my sales venture.  I never get into those.....no real money in it, in my experience.  I only have so much to spend on grading for sales these days as I'm not actively teaching at the moment because I'm on hiatus while writing my dissertation, so I have to get bang for my buck.  I've also done fairly well selling some of my Canadian duplicates lately.  But, I'm usually pretty bad about selling Canadian as it is such an area of interest for me.  I don't mind duplicates there.

Edited by Mohawk

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Actually I have not searched much of them. I looked into the 1970 sets and ripped them apart. Since I didn't do anything with the saved  PF coins from 1970 I just left the sets alone. 

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17 hours ago, Six Mile Rick said:

WK007,

 First off --- Welcome to the forum!!

 It takes a trained eye to be a good grader of coins. Most coins are worth the cost of grading and lower. If you do not know how to grade properly you will have 1000's of dollars invested into 100's in value.

 Find a local coin dealer near by and get their opinion on submitting a few to NGC. 

Sound like my ex wife

 

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On 3/11/2019 at 8:39 PM, JKK said:

That depends on what your goal is.

If you want all the coins in a set to be slabbed or you just really like a coin, and you do not mind the cost, any coin is good enough.

If you want the cost of the grading to be made up in dollar value, then you need to estimate the grade, get a strong sense of authenticity, assess whether or not it's been cleaned or damaged, and then decide whether the likely grading outcome will pay for itself. I gather it costs about $60 all told to send a single piece in for grading, so I'm thinking such a coin would need a basic value in the high three figures or better.

I have 2 steel 1943 pennies, they are both MS 67 or better, 1 has a mint DD and maybe just a little less like MS 67 where the other has no mint errors and would be more like a MS 68 or 68+. Which one would you send for grading ?

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have 2 steel 1943 pennies, they are both MS 67 or better, 1 has a mint DD and maybe just a little less like MS 67 where the other has no mint errors and would be more like a MS 68 or 68+. Which one would you send for grading ?

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Check the edge of both coins. If the edge is smooth, there is a very good chance that the coins have been stripped and replated. NGC will not grade replated coins, if I remember correctly.

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