Worth saving?

[Just Bob]

If I may make a suggestion: why not offer them here (in the Marketplace forum) when you decide what they are worth and how much you would like to get for them? I'm sure some people here would like to have a chance to buy at least some of them, if the price is right.

Let's say, for example, that you take your Roosevelt dimes to the dealer. You check your info and determine that spot that day, let's say,  is 10.6 times face value. (just pulling numbers from the air to use as an example) He may offer you 9.75x face. (again, just pulling numbers from the air) You could offer them here for 10.5x plus shipping (or 11x, or 12x - depends on how much you would like to make and what the market will bear.) You make more money, folks on the forum get a good deal, and all you have to do is pack and ship them.

But, if you find a dealer that is willing to take the time to help you, and offers what you feel is a fair price, don't cut him/her out of the picture altogether. If they go to all that trouble for you, the least you can do is give them a chance to make a little money. I know that we sometimes make all dealers sound like cantankerous, money hungry old goats, but there actually are some good ones out there, and if you can find a good, honest, and fair one, it will be to your benefit to establish a good working relationship with him/her.

[Conder101]

That $15 he mentioned for the 64 irradiated dime was because of the holder it's in.  A run of the mill loose 1964 dime isn't worth anywhere near that. (And since he isn't interested in it, if you decide to sell it keep me in mind.  I don't have one of that style holder yet.)

[d7716045]

@Just Bob, @Conder101,Thanks, appreciate ya’! 
If and when ready to sell, I’ll definitely consider the marketplace forum here and yourself, for the irradiated dime.

[d7716045]

Here are my lists of nickels, and pics of what I believe to be my most desirable Buffalo date/mintage 1919 D, which is in about the average condition, of all Buffs...Some a bit better and some with unidentifiable date & mint mark.  FWIW, I can take more pics, if needed.

I appreciate your feedback! 

Jefferson Wartime: (54)
1942 P (3)
1942 S (3)
1943 P (22)
1942 S (6)
1944 P (5)
1944 S
1944 D (2)
1945 P (7)
1945 S (4)
1945 D

Buffalo Nickels: (52)
1919 D (See pic)
1920 (3)
1923 (3)
1925 (4)
1926 (5)
1927 (7)
1928 (3)
1928 S
1929 (2)
1930
1934
1935
1935 D
1936 (9)
1936 D
1937
Unidentifiable (7)
Unidentifiable D

[d7716045]

On 10/25/2018 at 7:01 PM, JKK said:

...Want to know what I'd do? At first, leave the dimes and up home. I'd take the nickels, silver Jeff and Buff, to three different dealers and ask them what they would pay. Watch to see if they single out any of the coins individually. If they say there's a fee to go through them, thank them politely and take the nickels with you to the next place. Also see if they put the offer in writing (a positive if they do). Obviously, don't tell any of them that you are showing the coins to other dealers.

Update:  I took the nickels, silver Jeff (54) and Buff (52), to 2 coin dealers, 3rd one was closed, for vacation; I'll try again, when returns.  The first one I know, the 2nd I did not; neither singled out any key dates i.e. Buff 1919 D, nor charged me a fee, to go through them.  Both put what they'd pay writing but on scrap paper, nothing "formal" or with their name on it.  Here's what they said they'd pay...

Coin dealer #1 (I know) $33
Buff (52): Full date showing $0.15 cents each, no date showing: $0.8 cents each
Jeff (54): He said "Melt = $0.80 cents each", but he'd pay me $0.50 cents each

Coin dealer #2: $34.60
Buff (52): $0.25 cents each (Did not distinguish between full date & no date)
Jeff (54): $0.40 cents each

[JKK]

Well, that at least tells you where the dealers are at. I think just a little over half melt is a little cold for silver. I'm not terribly surprised, but at least now you know.

[d7716045]

21 hours ago, JKK said:

Well, that at least tells you where the dealers are at. I think just a little over half melt is a little cold for silver. I'm not terribly surprised, but at least now you know.

Thanks!
How much, compared to melt, do you think would not be cold, for silver?  FWIW,  I found a couple more dealers, to visit, along with the one on vacation; if for nothing else, just to have a few more opinions and options.

[Conder101]

Half melt for war nickels does seem that surprising to be.  Refining cost would be quit high so you aren't going to get anywhere close to melt on war nickels.

[JKK]

Conder, do you think most silver business strikes sold for melt actually get melted? I always figured they were sold to bullion investors/hoarders/preppers. Although I can see the obvious disadvantage that the nickels have over dimes for that purpose: if you're buying a lot, 90% is obviously more concentrated Ag to store and move around than 35%.

I decided to look to see what I'd pay for a roll of random date worn war nickels. So, today at APMEX, twenty coins for $17.56 = $0.878 per nickel. Melt, on this non-trading Saturday morning, is $0.8287 per nickel, so it seems that when the dealer is a seller, refining cost is not factored--they get every cent of melt plus some. The spread is enormous relative to what I've seen with other bulk silver coins, and these aren't being melted obviously--the company is selling them by the roll. And unless somehow APMEX buys much worse than the OP's dealer, which I doubt, their markup is from 80-100%.

OP, you might see what you get for a roll of silver Rosies. There I would absolutely draw the line. Have you taken the nickels to a mainly-bullion dealer yet?

[d7716045]

19 hours ago, JKK said:

...And unless somehow APMEX buys much worse than the OP's dealer, which I doubt, their markup is from 80-100%.

OP, you might see what you get for a roll of silver Rosies. There I would absolutely draw the line. Have you taken the nickels to a mainly-bullion dealer yet?

Thanks!

I still have to inventory the dimes.  I have not yet, been to any mainly-bullion dealers, but I believe my next trip will include one or two.

[d7716045]

Hello folks,

Been a while, hope you all had a great holiday season and happy new year, to all!  

I decided to hold on to silver & clad coins, as saw price of going up a bit, from low $14s and started to get an idea, of what makes silver price move.

That said, how would store the silver coins?

Also, after seeing the rare 1943 bronze wheat penny sell for $204,000 at Florida auction, I started going through my 2 big jars of circulated wheat cents. 😉  About 1/4 inventoried, and it doesn’t look like anything real valuable, yet but here’s what I’ve got, so far.  I’d appreciate your feedback, on whether or not they’re worth saving, selling or spending; keeping in mind, I’m still in need of cash.

Wheat Cents 1909-‘44, 45-58 (Circulated):
1910 (2)
1911 (3)
1916 (1)
1918 (7)
1919 (10)
1920 (6), D (1)
1925 (2)
1926 (4)
1927 (3)
1928 (6)
1929 (7)
1930 (4)
1934 (5)
1935 (5)
1936 (17)
1937 (15)
1938 (10)
1939 (13)
1940 (9), D (1)
1941 (13), D (1)
1942 (15), D (2), S (1)
1944 (22), D (6), S (2)
1945 (20), D (5), S (1)
1946 (28), D (4), S (1)
1947 (6), D (1)
1948 (10), D (3)
1949 (4), S (2)
1950 (15), D (2), S (3)
1951 (12), D (5), S (3)
1952 (25), D (8), S (2)
1953 (6), D (3)
1954 D (10), S (1)
1955 (71), D (9)
1956 (11), D (14), S (1)
1957 (13), D (13)
1958 (26), D (9)

[JKK]

The best way for you to decide what's premium is to look at a price guide such as Numismedia. Then you don't have to wait for someone to go through your list--it is in your own power. Don't have big expectations for any Linc after 1934, as a general rule.

If the silver is circulated commons, I'd put it in rolls or tubes. Rolls if you want the cheapest way; tubes if you want them to stack up neatly.

[d7716045]

43 minutes ago, JKK said:

The best way for you to decide what's premium is to look at a price guide such as Numismedia. Then you don't have to wait for someone to go through your list--it is in your own power. Don't have big expectations for any Linc after 1934, as a general rule.

If the silver is circulated commons, I'd put it in rolls or tubes. Rolls if you want the cheapest way; tubes if you want them to stack up neatly.

Thanks!

Sorry, to be a bother posting my list.  I’ve got a 2003 “Red Book, which tells most are valued at .10-.20, at VG-4-VF-20, but that’s 16 years ago.

That said, I know it’s taken a while to go through these but not sure about the market, for them and I’m just looking for feedback, from those more experienced, on whether the book value is worth time, effort & potential $, in gas and/or shipping, to try to sell.

Do banks typically have rolls, for old silver dollars and half dollars?

[JKK]

You're not a bother, but it is in your power to research your coins relative to current pricing. Since forum members cannot see pictures of them and you are not suggesting grades, we can't know what the book value might be. Grading makes a lot of difference in price. It will take you a little time, but zero gas or shipping effort, to obtain your answers. Probably less time than it takes to snap and post pictures of them all.

Haven't asked the bank for rolls in years, so I don't know about that. Might depend on which bank. Ike rolls would fit older cartwheels, but I doubt they have a big demand for Ike rolls. Halves I'd think are more likely.

[robert and lynn whiting]

Spoiler

https://www.pcgs.com/auctionprices/item/2014-s-25c-great-smoky-mtns-silver-limited-edition-proof-set-dc/541802/-836454486969577623

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Whats a Mislabeled PCGS coin worth

 

[Just Bob]

1 hour ago, robert and lynn whiting said:

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Whats a Mislabeled PCGS coin worth

 

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Welcome to the forum.

That is considered a mechanical error by the third party grader - not really that rare - so, unless you can find someone who collects those kinds of mistakes, I would consider it worth less than a properly labeled coin.

[d7716045]

3 hours ago, JKK said:

You're not a bother, but it is in your power to research your coins relative to current pricing. Since forum members cannot see pictures of them and you are not suggesting grades, we can't know what the book value might be. Grading makes a lot of difference in price. It will take you a little time, but zero gas or shipping effort, to obtain your answers. Probably less time than it takes to snap and post pictures of them all.

Haven't asked the bank for rolls in years, so I don't know about that. Might depend on which bank. Ike rolls would fit older cartwheels, but I doubt they have a big demand for Ike rolls. Halves I'd think are more likely.

Thanks, but I did suggest grade “VG-4-VF-20”.

[d7716045]

1 hour ago, robert and lynn whiting said:

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Whats a Mislabeled PCGS coin worth

 

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Um, perhaps you can start your own thread.