Cleaning up old slabs
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I was wondering if there is a proven process for cleaning up old slabs. I have traded for several multi-holder slabs that need some work.

 

Was wondering if there is a recommended paste/cream for working scratches and rub marks out of the plastic?

 

Thanks for your help

james

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Try toothpaste first. Arm and Hammer toothpaste seems to be a little more aggressive, and I suspect it is because of the grit rating. The cost is about $3-4.

 

The wipe on/wipe off stuff is OK short term, but will eventually break down and re-application is needed. Depending on storage, temps, lighting, extent and depth of scratch etc., it can fill and haze much more quickly.

 

The best I have used for stuff the toothpaste doesn't work on is the 3M headlight polish kit. A little more elbow grease is needed, and works best using a little dremel drill. The cost is about $15-20.

 

Either way, or whatever method you choose, use the toothpaste first. There is a lot of micro dirt krap on the slabs and goodness knows what type of chemicals from infected zombie fingerprints that have to be cleaned first. The wipe on/wipe off stuff doesn't do it, and neither does window cleaner (or bug spray, especially the stuff with Deet).

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I use Meguire's scratch-x with a poly cloth, a member here was surprised how effective it was with minor issues on his slabs when I lent it to him. I'm surprised how many coin shops don't work over their slabs with a product, even coins well into the thousands are scratched up.

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Here's an original idea. Stop the slab abuse to start with ! Dealers and auctioneers stop pasting stickers on slabs. It's a lazy habit and serves no purpose except to identify slabs at a quick glance. THEY ALREADY HAVE LABELS INSIDE THE SLAB. I've seen dealers pitch slabs across the table. Just use common sense please (you dealers know who you are).

 

Stickers aren't the cause of scuffs, scratches and chips in the plastic.

 

Additionally, many sellers AND buyers like to be able to see prices on the stickers affixed to the holders. And understandably, many sellers prefer to include their company name/information on stickers. Finally, stickers can be used to include additional variety information about the coin, which doesn't necessarily appear on the grading label.

 

Sorry, I don't like your "original" idea.

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Try toothpaste first. Arm and Hammer toothpaste seems to be a little more aggressive, and I suspect it is because of the grit rating. The cost is about $3-4.

 

The wipe on/wipe off stuff is OK short term, but will eventually break down and re-application is needed. Depending on storage, temps, lighting, extent and depth of scratch etc., it can fill and haze much more quickly.

 

The best I have used for stuff the toothpaste doesn't work on is the 3M headlight polish kit. A little more elbow grease is needed, and works best using a little dremel drill. The cost is about $15-20.

 

Either way, or whatever method you choose, use the toothpaste first. There is a lot of micro dirt krap on the slabs and goodness knows what type of chemicals from infected zombie fingerprints that have to be cleaned first. The wipe on/wipe off stuff doesn't do it, and neither does window cleaner (or bug spray, especially the stuff with Deet).

 

Toothpaste will leave your slab minty fresh.

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I've had good results using Brasso. The label even says it's good for removing scratches from acrylic watch crystals. The problem with stickers is that I've had them pull off the hologram when I removed them.

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NGC slabs seem more difficult to scratch, but also seem difficult to remove scratches from. I used a dremel tool once and destroyed the slab. It was a deep scratch and require a lot of polishing. I didn't think about the heat the drill/tool generated and it actually melted the top layer of the slab even though it didn't seem that hot to the touch. The coin, fortunately, was not harmed. The point of my anecdote is don't experiment with irreplaceable plastic or hard to replace holders. By some cheap state quarter slabs for practice.

 

Don't be idiotic like I was. :facepalm:

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I have used both of these, and have had success (at least with PCGS slabs). With regards to NGC slabs, see my other post.

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Here's an original idea. Stop the slab abuse to start with ! Dealers and auctioneers stop pasting stickers on slabs. It's a lazy habit and serves no purpose except to identify slabs at a quick glance. THEY ALREADY HAVE LABELS INSIDE THE SLAB. I've seen dealers pitch slabs across the table. Just use common sense please (you dealers know who you are).

 

Stickers aren't the cause of scuffs, scratches and chips in the plastic.

 

Additionally, many sellers AND buyers like to be able to see prices on the stickers affixed to the holders. And understandably, many sellers prefer to include their company name/information on stickers. Finally, stickers can be used to include additional variety information about the coin, which doesn't necessarily appear on the grading label.

 

Sorry, I don't like your "original" idea.

When stickers are removed carelessly fingernails can scratch the plastic especially on older holders prior to the use of optical quality plastic. I am a collector not a dealer and have had most of my coins reholdered so I can appreciate the coins rather than loath those ugly scratched holders. Is it just me ?

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Nope you are not alone, I have had to reholder alot of my slabs as well, mostly the NGC ones. The PCGS ones can be polished up and removed most dings and scratches. No matter what process I use on the NGC ones following the recommendations above and others from these boards, rubbing them with a lint free cloth and the polisher leaves hairlines. So NGC slabs are pretty bad overall in terms of maintaining a scratch/hairline free surface. Or, can someone recommend a process that does not leave hairlines on them?

 

Best, HT

Edited by Hard Times

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"...polisher leaves hairlines." That means the polishing grit is too coarse. Try using jeweler's rouge (very fine iron oxide) in a medium slurry with water (not alcohol).

 

 

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I made the mistake of using a dremel, and melted the plastic some.

Polishing plastic without leaving micro scratches, is nearly impossible. I have tried Mother's mag and aluminum polish with a microfiber cloth, and it still leaves it foggy. Mother's mag and aluminum polish is THE BEST metal polish, I use it for ring making, and it leaves it as reflective as a mirror!

I will test to see if epoxy can fill the scratches, but doubt it. I also will try using PET film, the old film screen protectors, on my other slabs. The idea is, that the film will be clear enough, and will be scratch resistant, and can easily be replaced. 

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On September 14, 2016 at 8:43 AM, Mr.Mcknowitall said:

Try toothpaste first. Arm and Hammer toothpaste seems to be a little more aggressive, and I suspect it is because of the grit rating. The cost is about $3-4.

 

The wipe on/wipe off stuff is OK short term, but will eventually break down and re-application is needed. Depending on storage, temps, lighting, extent and depth of scratch etc., it can fill and haze much more quickly.

 

The best I have used for stuff the toothpaste doesn't work on is the 3M headlight polish kit. A little more elbow grease is needed, and works best using a little dremel drill. The cost is about $15-20.

 

Either way, or whatever method you choose, use the toothpaste first. There is a lot of micro dirt krap on the slabs and goodness knows what type of chemicals from infected zombie fingerprints that have to be cleaned first. The wipe on/wipe off stuff doesn't do it, and neither does window cleaner (or bug spray, especially the stuff with Deet).

Picked up some Arm & Hammer today and will try it when a scuffed up slab arrives. Nice timing on the topic. 

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On 9/15/2016 at 12:42 PM, numisport said:

When stickers are removed carelessly fingernails can scratch the plastic especially on older holders prior to the use of optical quality plastic. I am a collector not a dealer and have had most of my coins reholdered so I can appreciate the coins rather than loath those ugly scratched holders. Is it just me ?

^^^^^
This!

If you have never submitted a coin for reholdering in an NGC Scratch Resistant holder, you're in for a real treat if you do.

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23 hours ago, USAuPzlBxBob said:

^^^^^
This!

If you have never submitted a coin for reholdering in an NGC Scratch Resistant holder, you're in for a real treat if you do.

Also note that CAC will resticker coins already verified by them (I believe at reduced or no charge) if they have the same number that doesn't change on a reholder.

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11 hours ago, numisport said:

Also note that CAC will resticker coins already verified by them (I believe at reduced or no charge) if they have the same number that doesn't change on a reholder.

My coin collection is complete for now, and I am trying to enhance it in an inexpensive way.
A few of my coins are in old, scuffed-up NGC holders, and they have CAC “beans" on them.
I’d like to submit them to NGC for new Scratch-Resistant holders, but then they would be without the “beans.”
If I were to submit them for new holders I would probably ask for regrading, too.
1) Is there then the possibility that if I then had them submitted for CAC review, and they had higher grades, they could possibly fail to “bean?”
2) If they came back with the same grades as before, would CAC definitely “bean” them?
3) Since they had been CAC “beaned” before, would their submission for “beaning” be at a reduced price?
Thank you,
Bob

Good Morning Bob,
 
Thank you for your email.  Here are the answers to your questions.
 
1)  Yes, if the coin comes back a grade higher it may not meet our requirements to sticker again.
2)  We do not guaranty that a coin will re-sticker once it is removed from its original holder, however most coins do.
3)  If the cert number remains the same, the fee is $3.00.  If the cert number changes the fee is $14.50 for coins valued under $10,000 or $29 for coins graded over $10,000.  You can submit through
one of our submission centers listed on our website.  The submission center may charge a shipping and handling fee.
 
Hope this helps,
Michelle

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On January 10, 2019 at 9:33 PM, USAuPzlBxBob said:

^^^^^
This!

If you have never submitted a coin for reholdering in an NGC Scratch Resistant holder, you're in for a real treat if you do.

Is there much of a difference between the newest NGC slabs and their scratch resistance slabs from an appearance perspective? 

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6 hours ago, Zebo said:

Is there much of a difference between the newest NGC slabs and their scratch resistance slabs from an appearance perspective? 

If you plan to keep your coins always get scratch resistant holders for 5 bucks more or 10 bucks for reholder.

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7 hours ago, Zebo said:

Is there much of a difference between the newest NGC slabs and their scratch resistance slabs from an appearance perspective? 

I don't know how many Scratch-Resistant Holders I have, as I would have to check my records, and then I could compare them to slightly older holders, that don't have the feature. But the ones I know about looked so nice when they arrived in the mail.  No sheen on their surface, and a sort of "see-through non-reflection" interface.  Any new holder always looks good, but these just make you feel good, especially if you're very proud to own the coin inside.

Here are some reviews from NGC:

“Eye appeal is everything. And
when a coin is in a holder, the
holder is part of the eye appeal.”
Greg Rohan, President, Heritage Auctions
 
“The Scratch-Resistant Holders from NGC are optically superior to any holder out there. I think everyone should get their collection reholdered in them — and certainly before bringing it to market!”
John Albanese, Numismatic Expert
 
“I had a classic rarity — a million dollar coin or better — reholdered by NGC, and the difference is incredible. I even got a WOW from a top expert in the field.”
Adam Crum, VP, Monaco Rare Coins

 

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I have GSA Hoard slabs and used SlabRenew to get rid of sticker residue and some mild scuffs.  Worked just fine, just take your time and go slow.

I have used Goof-off and other citrusy-based products in the past for Sticker residue on glass and heavy china, but didn't know how it would work on the GSA Slabs, so didn't try it.

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I have just one holder that is beat up but this is a crime for this coin:

 

I am about to send to NGC for a new holder and then back to CAC.

 

 

IMG_1945.JPG

IMG_1946.JPG

IMG_1942.JPG

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Matt_dac,

That penny will look drop-dead gorgeous when you get it back in a brand-new Scratch-Resistant holder, and finally get the "bean."

The "s" looks nice and sharp on it, too.

Beautiful!

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