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Fake 1893-S

Started by JTO,

13 posts in this topic

JTO

JTO

Posted
Posted

Let's move on...

 

What is the difference you ask? Okay I will again play the straight man and set you up for some insane response.

 

The Long Red Arrows show tight clusters of curls on the real coin with wide rivers between Hair locks on the fake

 

The short red arrows show fine detail in the hair on the real coin with fat mushy hair on the fake

 

Gold arrows show sharp lettering on the real coin and fat lettering on the fake.

 

There are so many OBVIOUS sign that this is a fake it is sad. But as a collector who values this forum I 1) want to educate my fellow collectors if I can 2) use this space productively and in the spirit of the hobby and 3) get rid of at least one of the 3 consecutive postings reading "1893 S, Silver Dollar, Morgan.

 

My diagnosis is that the pictured Fake is in fact a silver round, that is a 1 ounce silver token.

17203.jpg

 

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MarkFeld

MarkFeld

Posted
Posted
if the coin is fake then why did it pass the the metal dector that says its siver then why did it pass the weight i dont apprecate you seaying its fake until its graded the post your comment thank you then why did aces coin offer money for the coin anser me those questoins

 

Counterfeits can be made of silver and be the correct weight. And as I understand the "offer" you said you received, it was for a graded example, not for yours, as is.

 

You know very little about coins and many posters here know a great deal. You can continue to dream if you wish, but the coin is counterfeit - one of a great many that have been produced.

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MarkW

MarkW

Posted
Posted

The 93s is, I believe, one of only two coins in the Morgan series to have been minted using only one obverse die. The other is the 1894 Philly. Having all been minted from the same die, the obverses should be the same on ALL 1893-S Morgans. Obviously the OP's coin does not match.

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Conder101

Conder101

Posted
Posted
if the coin is fake then why did it pass the the metal dector that says its siver

Because it is silver, just being silver doesn't make it real.

 

why did it pass the weight

Because they made it the right weight. Just because they made it the right weight doesn't make it real.

 

dont you think it could of the way the but it in the die it could be a arror coin

ALL of the 1893 S dollars came from the same obverse die. The date position on your coin is different than the date position of a known genuine coin. So your coin can't be real

 

why would aces coins offer me that much money if the coin was fake

You would have to ask them that. But one possibility is that they can't tell if it is real or not. I don't know anything about Aces Coin, but there are a lot of coin dealers out there that actually don't know a lot about coins. They know how to make deals, they can follow prices, and they can read what is printed on the slabs. but they don't know varieties or how to authenticate coins. Some firms have one good numismatist, and a bunch of sales personnel.

 

i can waite to send it in and have it graded so you can eat your words sorry to say have your wallet ready to buy my fake coin i cant waite to prove you wrong

So spend the money and send it in. Prove us wrong and I will be happy to eat my words.

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coinsbygary

coinsbygary

Posted
Posted

I do have an idea for the OP that should minimize his risk if he wants to pursue it. Since the dealer was willing to give the OP $225,000 (I think that was it) I'd offer the dealer the coin uncertified for $200,000 or even $190,000. If he snaps the coin up, the OP walks away with a decent chunk of money and the dealer gets the coin certified. If the dealer wants nothing to do with the OP's coin (?) then the OP walks away with a silver round and spares himself the expense of having to put up a large certification fee for a fake.

 

Now if I were to inherit a large ticket coin or coins, I would follow the example of John and Mary of Saddle Ridge Hoard fame and market the coins through a dealer like Kagin's. Even as a collector of 40+ years, I am no dealer. That said, I'd probably certify and sell the low ticket coins myself. A good dealer is able to maximize the return for both themselves and the coin's owner.

 

Otherwise, I would take a hint from NGC when they pulled down the OP's posts. NGC will never tell a person a coin is a fake by a picture on their boards nor should they as a professional certification service. However, if I were to read between the lines, I'd have to say they think it's a fake.

Gary

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MarkFeld

MarkFeld

Posted
Posted
I do have an idea for the OP that should minimize his risk if he wants to pursue it. Since the dealer was willing to give the OP $225,000 (I think that was it) I'd offer the dealer the coin uncertified for $200,000 or even $190,000. If he snaps the coin up, the OP walks away with a decent chunk of money and the dealer gets the coin certified. If the dealer wants nothing to do with the OP's coin (?) then the OP walks away with a silver round and spares himself the expense of having to put up a large certification fee for a fake.

 

Now if I were to inherit a large ticket coin or coins, I would follow the example of John and Mary of Saddle Ridge Hoard fame and market the coins through a dealer like Kagin's. Even as a collector of 40+ years, I am no dealer. That said, I'd probably certify and sell the low ticket coins myself. A good dealer is able to maximize the return for both themselves and the coin's owner.

 

Otherwise, I would take a hint from NGC when they pulled down the OP's posts. NGC will never tell a person a coin is a fake by a picture on their boards nor should they as a professional certification service. However, if I were to read between the lines, I'd have to say they think it's a fake.

Gary

 

The coin is a counterfeit and the dealer wouldn't buy it for $200,000 or anything close to that number. And reading between the lines, NGC doesn't "think the coin is a fake". They know it is.

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