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  1. Where are the Silver Eagle Registry sets? Couldn't find them under "US"... Never mind, I am old, senile, and a bit blind. Don't know how I missed it first time.....
  2. If they didn't put out a low mintage piece occasionally, interest in the moderns might fall off. I think this helps generate interest in collecting, and actually helps the hobby....
  3. Yes, it was active! I put the coin in my "bag" at 12:00, then didn't finalize until 12:20, because I would get close to complete, get kicked off, and start again several times!
  4. Thanks for the info. I am just wanting to let them go, and get up some cash as quickly as possible. Retired now, and decided it would be more fun to get some upgrades on my truck. Hoping to get an idea of what they are worth, and the insight provided by you guys will help a lot. Thanks to everyone.
  5. Thinking of selling my late date Large Cents, and I was wondering approximate percentage of price list values I should expect from a dealer. They are all MS65 to MS66.....
  6. I’ve been an active collector for over 40 years. I started with an undefined goal, getting any “old” coin I could afford. Eventually, I focused on US types, excluding gold. I tried to focus on VF to XF condition, to keep expenditures reasonable. Over time I found myself gravitating to US Large Cents. I built a very nice (not complete) set of early, middle, and late date cents. Eventually, I sold the types and the circulated cents, and focused on mint state late dates. Being on a fixed (retired) income, I will probably never finish my late date cent set. However, I feel somehow connected to the very first US collectors, who began collecting when the big coppers were replaced with the Flying Eagle cent. I think, over time, I have come “full circle” and found the roots of US collecting.
  7. "There should be a difference between a 69 and 70" Exactly, THERE SHOULD BE! In most cases there is no difference. One service puts out quite a number of "70's", which is probably accurate with the grading standards and modern production, the other service keeps the number of "70's" lower, simply to keep up a false impression of tighter standards. If you look at enough of these, you will conclude that, for the most part, there is actually no difference in "69" or "70" graded coins. The arrogant people will say that you don't have enough experience to tell the difference, and that is just arrogance. Anyone who has collected for years should admit that the whole 69-70 thing is hype.
  8. I sent an email with copies of my set, and set cert numbers. I think it is not recognizing anything with a Newcomb number, or sm/lg date.
  9. They are Large Cents that are listed, however, it is the ones that have a variety or die number on the holder. They used to put an asterisk, denoting value of "parent coin", or something similar.
  10. Why do some of my coins show no value on the Registry?
  11. As has been stated a number of times in this thread.. Why would I cross a PCGS coin to NGC, when it's worth more in the PCGS slab? Why? Maybe because you are a collector, rather than an investor? Maybe because you collect coins, and not plastic? Maybe because, like everyone else, you say, "buy the coin, not the holder"? Maybe you just like all your slabs to be of the same type? Maybe because you have a strong dislike for the arrogant "PCGS or nothing" attitude that has existed from day one ATS? In any event, NGC finally had to take the same step to, hopefully, resolve the value disparity, which is almost surely the result of the PCGS only registry. They did what they had to do, and all the complaining and sour grapes won't change anything. If you decide to join the Kool Aide crowd ATS, do it. I doubt if threatening to do it will change anything. Perhaps we should forget the old advice, "buy the coin, not the plastic", and use a new one, " collect the coins, not the registries", after all, many of us were collecting coins before the registries, or grading companies, existed.
  12. Simply put... NGC certification was "classy", adding the BS marketing is "trashy". Doesn't matter my personal opinion of these labels, there is still a distinct line that separates classy from trashy. Kind of like turning a Rolls Royce into a chromed out low rider. Some would like it, but it still ain't classy...
  13. Vegetable oil works better, and is probably safer. Just put a bit of salad oil on a paper towel, moisten the area, wait a few minutes and wipe the residue away.
  14. +1 for guns, especially the old ones, wood and steel...