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About JKK

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    The Post-man always rings twice. Uhm... ring ring?

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    freelance writer
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    well, there's one you can probably guess
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  1. If you're going to be in Portland that weekend, come and check us out. This is our 15th annual show and it uses up the whole ballroom at the Doubletree next to Lloyd Center (one block from a Max stop, thus accessible from most places in the three-county area). Last year I counted about six dealers heavy with ancients and this year I am loaded for bear. The Penny Lady often shows up, as does the Colonel. Admission is $2, YNs free. (Even kids who have yet to become YNs are still free.) In addition to the exhibits and vendors, we have YN activities at the show. Our club leadership has gone all out to reach out to YNs and nowadays, of forty people at a meeting, five are YNs. When I first joined, a YN was the VP. While predominantly male in demographics, a small but growing percentage of girls and women could tell you that this is definitely not just a boys' club. The hard details: Friday, November 1: early bird, 3 PM to 6 PM, $25 special admission (same for 8 AM to 10 AM Saturday and 9 AM to 10 AM Sunday) Saturday, November 2: 10 AM to 6 PM Sunday, November 3: 10 AM to 4 PM Doubletree by Hilton Hotel 1000 NE Multnomah St Portland, OR 97232 For more information see our club's webpage. If you live here and have not checked out the Willamette Coin Club, you can easily fix that on the third Thursday of every month (such as tomorrow, 10/17, though admittedly a lot of it will be about planning for the show in two weeks so it will not exactly be a representative meeting). The WCC is a registered non-profit with the mission of numismatic education. We hope to see you there. If this is in the wrong forum, and it gets moved, sorry, my bad.
  2. Real ones weigh 33.4g, so that one is certainly counterfeit.
  3. Just offhand, the color doesn't look right. What does it weigh in grams? In any case it would get a details grade at best due to the damaged rim on reverse.
  4. Panama-Pacific commemorative half, uncirculated, toning looks natural. CW mag has lower unc grades for $400; you wouldn't get that, but you would definitely get more than melt.
  5. That's a worn bust half dollar, which we call a bustie. They are very popular. I can't see the obverse detail very well, nor whether it was cleaned (kind of doubt it), but worn 1829s show up in price guides from the high two figures to the low three for nicer examples. Actual market value is well below the publicly available price guides.
  6. Welcome to numismatics. This is fun. You might end up deciding to keep them. Suggest you start by dividing it between US (if you are in the US) and foreign, then divide the foreign stuff by country, then by believed timeframe. For the US stuff, divide by denomination and then by type. If it's a large collection, posting useful pictures of everything could be a bit difficult. My guidance would be to post the ones that most confuse you, or where a single example would help you identify many coins. Post whatever you like, of course, but if it's a big collection at some point you'll have to pick and choose. Bear in mind (and please take these with a friendly tone meant to give maximum help): Just because it's shiny doesn't mean it's worth a lot. Just because it's not shiny doesn't mean it's worthless. Just because it's old doesn't mean it's worth a lot. Just because it's in a plastic holder as a set doesn't make that a mint or proof set, or even valuable. Don't clean any of it and don't ask us how you should clean any of it, because we will give you the very sound advice not to do so. Just imagine we gave it to you already, and that if you do otherwise, 99.9% likely you will be combusting value against our nearly unanimous guidance. And no, we won't suddenly decide that you and this case are the vanishing exceptions to that guidance. Don't clean any of it. (Hopefully I was clear enough. If I was not, I suggest you don't clean the coins.) Do protect the coins, at least those that aren't worn. Consider getting a bunch of plastic flips to hold the nicer ones, especially those that look uncirculated. Fingerprints on uncirculated coins are bad. They don't need any new dings or scratches, either. How to put this tactfully: Sometimes our elders are/were not as capable at numismatics as we have always believed. I learned that when a bunch of completely loose proof coins in my passed-on FIL's collection just fell out along with the rest of a paper roll of coins. I'm currently helping liquidate a lady's dad's collection and she is shocked and disgusted to learn that he bought two spendy counterfeits, a bunch of cleaned coins, and overgraded everything. I helped another lady value her deceased husband's collection, for which he paid with secret credit cards he ran up, and the short version was that she could just about pay a month's rent in a dive in the Portland suburbs with its value (a small fraction of what he actually spent). Very, very rarely does the relative turn out to have been the Great Numismatist we were always led to believe; we all think they are very special, and as people, many are, but one can be a great person and a suck collector. Separate your assessment of the coins from any assumed admiration of the relative's coin knowledge. The silver is always worth something. Gold is always worth something, but all that looks like gold is not. Most of what you will suspect is a very pricey error is probably either post-mint damage or a no-premium detracting condition. Let us know how we can help you figure this out.
  7. Yes. If you post the same coin at least five times, it will remove the haze, so two more posts to go.
  8. Diameter, weight, and clear obverse and reverse photos, please.
  9. It's important to separate those questions. No, they likely don't have much monetary value. If you were going to ask about having them slabbed, that'd be money you would not recoup. If you like them, yes, it's worth keeping them. If so, definitely protect the surfaces. A cardboard flip is not very expensive. Collect what you enjoy, period. Never worry about whether your way of collecting offends people who think their vision of the hobby is the only permissible outlook, and who thus scorn all others. There are very many different ways and styles of collecting and none of them are fundamentally wrong. Some styles won't generate big bucks in value, but that does not make them wrong.
  10. I don't know. What I know about grading services is that even authentic coins can end up body-bagged. Whether that would be the case here, I can't say. The grading services' logic is outside my ken and I don't normally speculate except to warn someone of the possibility.
  11. From a money standpoint, only if you thought it might get a special designation. CW mag said $80 for a 64. We all know that those numbers tend to be artificially high, so $60 might be more realistic--pretty low relative to slabbing cost, especially when you might get a details grade or body bag (or whatever they call it now when they find a reason not to slab or grade). Doesn't mean it isn't a nice coin, just that demand isn't that high in that grade.
  12. If it weren't for what I see along the rim, my guess would be 64-65. I don't know whether the edge "loss" (the same thing that I think jgrinz is talking about) is just a photo/shadow/obscuring effect, or if the reverse really shows two clip-like metal losses at 2:00 and 3:00. I hope the former because it's not seen in the initial blurry pics. If the latter, you're probably hosed from a grading standpoint. If it's just an effect, then the item jumping out to me a little bit is an obverse edge ding at 8:00. I am not sure what they'd make of that, or of the abrasion on the obverse edge at 5:00. Either of those could also be what jgrinz means and would be cause for at least some concern.
  13. Greenstang, where I benefit from a microscope (not sure about an endoscope; don't own one) is to examine for cleaning evidence, get a closer look at residue, and in some cases confirm or reject variety information such as RPMs. Sometimes when I can't get the picture at 10x, 30x can make a big difference. It might also be that you just have better vision and don't need the assistance.
  14. To my mind, much of the problem is the conflation of market value with collectibility. We get a steady flow of people insisting to us that a given coin is some great, expensive rarity, no matter what evidence we offer to the contrary. We try to explain where they are mistaken. Now and then they even listen. What we (well, nearly all of us) are never saying is "don't collect that." Collect the coins you like. If you enjoy putting them into flips, flips are inexpensive and easy. If it were worth $30-odd to you to have them slabbed, and you could afford it, and you understood you wouldn't recoup the $30 and didn't care, who's to judge? Whether they are the coins someone else would collect is beside the point. When we decouple market value and collectibility, we can collect simply because we like them, and thank the gods the other collectors exist because that gives us a market to get rid of (in some cases, identify) what we don't collect. Our club has a raffle and I recently won an Oregon $10 bill (a regular 1920s bill out of the FRB or whatever of Portland, OR). Great, but I don't collect currency. I turned around and sold it to the guy I sit with, a native Oregonian with a lifelong love of all coins, tokens, etc. relating to his home state. I had $75 to spend on something I did collect.
  15. Someone welded it on (and abused the reverse badly...or perhaps someone else did). It's less special than an ordinary worn version because it's been actively mutilated.