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Everything posted by dleonard-3

  1. Someone needs to respond to this, so here goes: #1 Restrike? I doubt it. Maybe a Chinese counterfeit. #2 Where can you weigh it? Use a scale that weighs in grams. #3 2.7 grams? That's what a U.S., Mint produced zinc plated steel cent is said to weigh. #4 "imrtl"?...……….I have no clue what this means. #5 I'm assuming here, but Michael Decker is your name. I hope I covered everything. 1944 steel cents are known to exist, so GOOD LUCK to you. :-)
  2. That is a nice looking 1957, but the reverse has all that black spotting on it. Was that stored on a bathroom shelf since 1957? You know, daily showers with humidity & mildew?
  3. I've had several "rotated reverse" half cents, and they didn't get any more value. Except when I showed someone I would say "and look, it has a rotated reverse"...………:-)
  4. The beginnings of a "love token" perhaps?
  5. I call those "road pennies". I once tried to use the analogy that "even a road penny has some value to someone", to try uplifting someone who has been through too much and considered themselves damaged goods...…..one man's trash is another man's treasure. Your little one has been through too much, but is a treasure. Good luck, and God bless.
  6. Nope, I bought the folder with my allowance money. It was .99c, which left me with enough to buy 4 pennies too. The next week, I took my $1.50 allowance and got 3 rolls of pennies at the bank and started searching.
  7. I remember my first coin purchase about 45 years ago. My mom was shopping in a book store, and I noticed a little display cabinet with coins in it. It had all kinds of u.s. coins that I had never laid eyes on before. I noticed some of the prices on the 2x2's were .10c & .15c for old wheatback pennies. I had $1.50 (allowance) to spend, so when I asked my mom if I could buy some pennies, she said "why don't you buy one of these penny folders, and try to fill it up with pocket change. I still bought a few pennies that day to start my collection, and I've been going at it ever since.
  8. Check the "population" report on each date and mint to see how many are out there (available). Some, if not all of these have had some major population bumps as submitters have sent new found gems in for grading. You're doing it right. Buy low, sell high.
  9. If you give them to a new collector (kid), they will fix that artificial toning in a few seconds. ;-)
  10. I would like to see a registry set for U.S. 2009 "Life of Lincoln" cents - COMPLETE. This set would include ALL Lincoln cents dated 2009 (P, D, & S), business strike, proof, and Special Mint Set.
  11. It's tough to keep new collectors interested in this hobby without burning out the old and experienced collectors that have literally seen it all multiple times and are tired of wasting what little time they have left trying to explain stupid meaningless stuff to newbies that think they have discovered something worth millions. I really wish there were more people out there willing to google stuff, and maybe do some searching on their own before posting questions. Personally, I usually ignore these questions and move along. But that doesn't serve anyone.
  12. Your image is sideways, and the coin looks corroded to me with a scratch across Washington's head. Maybe a detector find from the ground. This is a copper/nickel quarter, so the metal is much more reactive to contaminants. If you are seeing some other image, maybe you could give us a hint of what you are seeing.
  13. I have purchased quite a few PF70 coins for addition to my registry sets, and I can tell you this much: If all of my "perfect" 70 coins were carefully cracked out (undamaged) and resubmitted, they would almost all come back as 69's (and maybe a few 68's). I have not seen a perfect, flawless 70 coin yet. So, if a few microscopic hidden flaws are o.k. on 70's, than grading really does become subjective and variable. And a bulk submission of raw coins, with a "only grade the 70's" designation will yield a higher average number of 70's than a single coin submission. It's basic economics, and the third party graders only make money on coins that are graded. They want to make money too.
  14. My opinion, selling to a dealer is going to cost you a lot of money. I would consign high grade (slabbed) large cents to a reputable auction house.
  15. Most of these experienced and educated "experts" can tell you within a blink of an eye that your coin has been polished. I agree with their opinion, but I will add a few points as to how I came up with this diagnosis. #1, the area directly above the cap is recessed and protected and has what looks to me like remaining mint luster where the polishing wheel did not get to the original surface. #2, the star circled also looks like it has remaining mint luster in the areas that were protected in the recesses from the polishing wheel. #3, the areas between the letters "UNUM" also show this luster (surface) remaining. #4, the multiple vertical scratches (hairlines) all over the surface also suggest a polishing, buffing, or burnishing. #5, this coin seems to have very strong hair details which would suggest that the coin started out as a fairly nice Unc. or AU coin. But the remaining luster in the deepest recesses of the hair show that the dies were not polished to a mirror finish (the deepest recess of the coin would be the highest points on the dies and would receive the heaviest polish). As with all of the other opinions you have received on this subject, you are free to accept, reject, or adjust your findings to suit your needs. Good luck, and keep looking for that one-in-a-million coin. We all want one. ;-)
  16. I respect a man who can admit when he's wrong. I respect myself...……...ALOT! :-)
  17. I would think that a VF25 coin would have slightly better details than a VF20 coin, but not quite as much detail as for a VF30 coin. Same with a VF35 coin doesn't quite have the detail needed to grade XF40. There is also the "problem" issue where some marks, scratches, dings, etc could bring the eye appeal and details grade down a little. This is my opinion, and I could be wrong. ;-)
  18. Another technique is to use a stencil brush. No Chemicals, no abrasion. You carefully hold the coin by the edges, gently apply the brush bristle tips to the face of the coin without moving, then give it a little pressure to anchor the bristle tips in place, then carefully and slowly move the handle in a circular motion being careful not to allow the bristle tips to move. What this does is gently allow the bristle tips to penetrate the "goop" and loosen it from the coin's surface. Done right, it will not leave any scratches, won't alter the surface "skin" or color, but will remove foreign soft substances.
  19. Beautiful coin. That little discoloration stripe at 10:00 is most likely from a rubber wheel from a counting/rolling machine. I've got uncirculated rolls that have them on every coin. :-/
  20. I am no expert here, but I believe those markings on your photos are a "watermark" signifying that these images are "owned" by PCGS and may be copywritten. You may be getting into a problem by posting and/or trying to alter them.
  21. I hope he's not trying to "put one over" on anyone. You can display your coins any way you like, but keep your integrity. Don't try to convince anyone that you have an original 1964 SMS set. Most of us know better.
  22. It looks like it may have been a red/brown, and cleaned with "MS-70" which turns the brown to purple.
  23. Very well thought out, and your argument makes complete sense to me. But youre going to bruise your brain if you keep beating it against the wall. :-)