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  1. And are these worth sending in to grade? Does NGC pr other TPG grade toned coins or are they considered "damaged?
  2. I am still learning a lot here and from what I understand this is a very heated topic so here goes. My father collected coins in the 50s and 60s. He placed a lot of his coins in old small yellow envelopes and bank bags he had. Now when I finally got them, they are all toned beautiful colors. I took them to a local shop and the guys laughed at me and put my father down saying they are artificial. So my question is, the coins have been in bags for 50, 60+ years and not touched, how is that artificial toning or any different from them sitting in a vault for the same amount of time?
  3. And just to clarify, the monster box #400000, was purchased for 13k, sold to modern coin mart for well over 100k. Of the box only 244 graded 70, the rest 69 or less. Under this logic, the last year of the silver eagle, from this box, in an MS70 has a pop of 244. Again, lowest pop of any ASE and if anyone wants to complete a set registry.... well they most likely wont be able to. I have a few I was able to get early under an arrangement.
  4. Definitely command a huge premium, and 1 of 244 is a very limited run rarity. 1/1000th of the total pop. Add mercanti sig and FDI, this will surpass the 95w and 2015p. They sold out in a day and were only offered through 1 company to their exclusive clients. What say you all?
  5. Hello everyone and thanks for taking the time! I was recently lucky enough to purchase an un opened tube of 2000 silver eagles, from an unopened mint sealed monster box (I cut the straps). I'm going to send them in for grading sinf the 70s have a great premium but I dont understand the grading fees. 1. For declared value and standard submission under economy or modern is roughly 17 bucks. If the grade 69 or lower... great no harm done. 2. For declared value over 3000 ide have to submit as express with a 60 dollar fee. If they come back as 70s I'm having an amazing rest of the year... but if they come back as 69 or lower I'm now out the price of the tube and have paid 4x the fee I would have if submitted under scenario 1. The ngc value of a 69 is 45.00 and a 70 is 4250! I know obviously they all wouldn't come back as 70s and if even 1 comes back 70 I'll make a few hundred profit but it's the difference between 300 and 1200 for grading! If I submit as express and they grade as 69 or lower will I be charged a lower premium? Or will they just keep the extra and say sorry about your luck?
  6. Hello all! I've had this ike for a while, it came in a apallo anniversary holder with story board. I cracked it out to out It under a microscope and verify it was a happy eagle variety which it is for sure. When researching i also have found there were a very small % struck on proof planchet. What do I look for besides the fields?
  7. Here are some full shot. The coin is very reflective so its tough to get a good focused shot with my cell phone. It is toned, brown/red/purple. It also shows what I hear people call the pinwheel effect from light. Considering I got it for a dollar at an estate sale, I think I'll be happy whatever it grades.
  8. Thank you for the reply! Sorry I put ddo instead of ddr. The edges where the dentils are has that line and mush on both sides. And yes there is a huge die crack from the top of the crown all the way down to the date. Will that diminish the grade when it comes back? There are also huge die cracks on the reverse that go around almost the entire coin like a circle.
  9. Hello all and thank you all for taking a look! I have this V nickle that is in amazing condition. I recent sales y got a coin microscope to check it out and see some issues with the coin. I'm still pretty new to collecting and haven't been able to figure out doubling as of yet. Some things I see that look doubled, people say arent, and some things that dont look doubled people say are..... is this a ddo? Around the lettering as well as almost all the way around the rim and dentils looks like it's been doubled. Any help before I send this in to grading would be great!D and T and the edges of the leaves below the D.
  10. I have 4 or five 1901s and the other dates. Most of them I have seen all have this issue. It's like extra flow....
  11. A side note, the two that toned were brassy colored to begin with. The other 2 that were chocolate brown are the ones that didnt change at all. The 1937 nickle just looks hazy, like fine patina on the edges now.
  12. Hello again all. I recently purchased a bunch of old dealer stock at an estate sale. He had lots of old coin wrappers and coins that were still wrapped. See my post about the 1954s cents. The one roll I opened, i took the wrapper and rolled a bunch of morgans and indian heads inside it and sat it on my window sill. It's been about a week. The morgans have no change but the indian heads are gorgeous rainbow toned now. Both different, one darker red and browns and one lighter red and browns. Of the 4 only 2 toned and they toned very fast. See pics. I have 2 sets of wrappers. One from 1940s roll and one from the 54.... i crumbled them up and put the coins inside them. With the huge debate on AT and natural toning, would this be considered AT? I have done nothing but place them in the wrappers and on the window..... thoughts? I used some sorta junk coins to try this as I'm afraid to use the good stuff.
  13. Cool. Let me set up my professional coin photography set and I'll post the actual pictures. And yes, they are screenshots from my cell phone because there is a size limit to uploads. My camera and eben my phone takes pics that the size is almost double the size limit allowed. But hold on a few..... ill get set up. And by pretty close I clearly ment the finish.... as the conversation was about the finish and not the grade.
  14. Below are shots of the highest graded ngc and highest record auction coin. They look pretty close to me, but I'm not an expert. Are the flow lines and "pitting" common in this series?
  15. I know they had a copper version and I think a brass version of this cent piece. Are the areas that look like streaks just the way the metal cooled? The reason I dont think it's been cleaned is because the streaks are inside the devices and on the fields but not on the devices. If someone cleaned it wouldn't the streaks be consistent and on the whole surface?