Thompson2

And then the play coins... all of these were found under the same tree as the Mon coins.. no idea how they got there or why they were there... but they're in my stash because of the story...certainly not because they're worth anything. 25C play coin, 25mm diameter 5C Play coin, 21.4mm diameter

I was going through old posts and thought I'd add to this one with some better pics (and ID's) and some of the other coins I found under the same stump... 1 Mon, no mint mark, 24.7mm diameter most likely C#1.1, 1. Haven't been able to get a firm grip on date, but somewhere between 1636-1870 (more likely 1740 or later) 4 Mon C# 6b, 26.6mm 1863-1867

you'll always get a quicker / better answer if you state where you think you see the attribute (DDO in this case). And get really focused pics of that area (especially for doubling).

I'm into Morgans. What makes this one worth that kind of money? Looks like a pretty common 1889 in not very good shape...worth somewhere around $30. Is there something I'm missing that makes this one special?

I have a stack of these (well, several stacks actually) and I'm wondering if there are any stand-out errors / varieties (aside from the "Heavily Accented Hair" version) that I should go hunting for? Seems like there's a small possibility of DDO or RPM, but even those have to be mid to high 60's to hold much value.. Anything I've overlooked (or a resource that I haven't found that would have details)? <edit>Maybe nevermind... found this on NGC (doh!) https://www.ngccoin.in/variety-plus/united-states/half-dollars/kennedy-half-dollars-1964-date/820389/ </edit> Thanks

Dang. I got rid of all my urgent money last week... I knew I shouldn’t have bought groceries... 🤣

To my untrained eye, no. The G should look like the ‘89. Found this pic as a reference

Why does that not surprise me, Ms. Error Queen? It is pretty cool though. Best of both worlds.. Cool defect on a "straight grade" coin.

Ha! Payback! https://indianvarieties.com/what-is-a-die-variety/odd-oddities/

Damn it Karen... you're making me read???

That's what I thought at first, but there aren't any breaks at the feature edges like I would expect with a wire wheel or sandpaper-type abrasive... but maybe I'm underestimating someone's determination.

Any ideas on what that texture is on the second coin? Interesting look...

Nope... but only because I'm really horrible at it... Check out https://www.pcgs.com/photograde to get an idea on where that falls.

But they were still dated 1964, or did I read that article incorrectly?

I like that second one. Not sure what's going on with the lines... almost looks like post-mint damage except that it goes right up to the edges of every feature. And they look really heavy to be die polishing marks... dunno... but it looks cool.

If you're going to try to sell them online, you'll need high res, really in-focus pics of all of them anyway. Might as well post them here (generically, not necessarily in this forum) to get a start. If you have a bunch, I'd suggest getting a Red Book (most any coin shop or Amazon will have it for less than $20). Then inventory what you've got by year and mint mark and see which ones may hold real value and start with those.

Yup.. I'm and id10T and that worked pretty well. Is it just lighting (or just my imagination), or is there an impression of the inner rib of the wheat actually stamped in the "damaged" area? This is spot here:

Can you post full sized pics (not a collage) of the first two pics?

Does the crack wrap around the edge of the coin? It doesn't seem to go all the way through to the obverse... To my untrained eye, it looks like a defect in the planchet...

Dumb question on plating bubbling - is there air under the lifted plating or does the zinc actually corrode and bubble? Mostly wondering if one could take a toothpick or similar non-marring widget and poke at the supposed bubble to determine what it actually is? And a second thought on this one - keep it, tag it and keep an eye out for similar. If it's a die-related thing, the features will be identical. If it's bubbling, they'll look different (I'm assuming anyway)...

Susan B. Anthony dollar. Not uncommon in circulated condition. Guessing it's worth right at $1.00.

If you're gonna make up stories about this, you should get more creative. I'm pretty sure that was stamped over a Roman Siscian coin circa 412 AD! I mean, you can clearly see that in the shadow of Lincon's head. And who's to say that didn't happen?? Wow! that's amazing... (Why do people provide actual, thought-out feedback to the trolls anyway?)

So I was in a similar (but not identical) situation in that we came into a stash of several hundred coins, most of which were unremarkable but there were a few that were pretty nice. Red Book is a good place to start. Sort what you've got and start to identify key/semi-key dates and mint marks. Once you have everything arranged, this doesn't take that long. A quick pass down the page of the book and you can see the ones that have more value at any grade. Pull those out. Then start looking for variants or date/MM combinations where the value "hockey sticks" up at higher grades and see if you have any of those (even if you can't really tell if what you've got is the higher grade or now). This can be a bit tougher because not all the variants are clearly indicated in Red Book. I ran into this with a Morgan dollar that was listed as "Reverse 2", but no further description... Google can help a lot with that. Also, get some 2x2 PVC free flips so that you can protect coins as you find them. The ones I bought came with 2x2 "notecards" that let me write down what the coin was and any other information that I thought was relevant so I didn't have to figure out why I had set that coin aside. <edit> You'll need these even for the coins in snaps if you send them in for grading. They want to see them in flips. Not sure how they feel about the snaps </edit> Then get good at grading over the course of years, get good at taking pictures so you can get opinions from the crew here on grades for particular coins (especially those that are marginal for getting slabbed), and / or find a good coin shop in your area that can (and is willing) to help with grading sorting. For the last option, remember that they need to make a living, so they can't offer top dollar / full retail price for what you've got. A word of caution on getting coins graded without having an experienced eye take a look at them - there's always the hazard that the coins you've got were cleaned which can pull a significant amount of value out of them. I learned that the hard, expensive way. So while this forum is a great resource, it does have its limitation... Good luck with it. Can't wait to see what you discover. Michael

Great... first you give me two bum pieces of info, then you make me feel like a complete <edit>id10T</edit>... I demand a refund! I've clicked past at least the NGC auction results about 150 times and just never paid attention to it... ugh... Thanks for the info... sorry I never found it myself... Cheers!

Lol... easy to overlook that. Good thing these forums offer a money back guarantee on the free input. I didn't get the steal of the century on the 1879, but not too bad (still not enough to justify a cross, I think). Do you have similar data for the 1885? Now I'm really curious on how it's trending... Or, instead of just providing the info, is there somewhere that tracks the auction info (I noticed that most sold listing for both of these went below NGC/PCGS Pricing)? ePay only leaves sold items up for a few months. I've not looked at HA (assuming Heritage Auctions?) Who are DL, SB and CG?