Greenstang

Welcome to the forum This is the forum for registered sets. You should post this under the “Coin Marketplace” forum and follow the instructions for posting. You supply none of the information that is required for selling on this site.

I agree that the random 2 is most definitley far- fetched. It seems to me that you are not going to believe what members with many years of experience are going to tell you so I suggest you send it off to a TPG for verification. List it under a Variety because there is no way it can be an error.

I’m a Rising Star but don’t know how they came to that conclusion. Maybe they just drew names out of a hat. I’m pretty sure that the Seasoned Veteran name comes about when you hit a 1000 posts.

The only possible way for a 2 to be next to the mm is if it was punched into the striking die. If this was the case, then it would be on anywhere up to a million cents and I’m sure it would have been discovered by now. Also it would be a variety, not an error, big difference. What you have is just surface damage.

Back to the drawing board. Nothing there that indicates any DDO

Not to worry, I made the same assumption when I first started collecting lowballs but was told by one of the top error and variety collectors here in Canada who has written many articles and who also contributed to Charlton’s catalogue that the date is only necessary if there are different years of the same design. If it is a one year design and you can make out the design, then that is enough, the date is not necessary as you know the date. Quoting this off of the PCGS website “the ideal low ball coin is one that has been worn to the point that the design is worn nearly flat but is still identifiable to type and date.”

I will accept your humble apology then Henri but no need to see your way out, I still enjoy your posts. This coin has been certified by ICCS, Canada’s leading grader. You are right in the fact that the date should be showing but only if you cannot tell the date of the coin by some other marker. The 1967 series of coins were a one off style. The dollar had the flying goose on the reverse and you can vaguely see the outline of the back of the goose on the reverse. The other certified PO1 that I mentioned is also the same, no date but you can make out the goose. The 1936 lowball that I posted is the same situation, no date but you can tell it is a 1936 by the crown, in 1935 the crown did not go to the rim.

Looks like it may be a partial grease filled die with lots of wear

All you have to do is look at the edge to tell if it has been plated or not. If the edge looks like the obverse and reverse, it has been plated. If you can see the steel core, then it is genuine.

It’s a zinc coin. You can see it on the reverse where the copper has been removed.

If you want them graded, then you are going to have to supply a clear photo of both sides.

Please follow the instructions under “Coin Marketplace Guidlines” when listing a coin for sale. You have supplied no information at all. Also, you are showing two different coins with only one side of one of them.

If you are just looking to identify a Small/ Large 1982 D date, then you are correct. If you are looking for the rare copper1982D Small Date, you are better off spending your time looking elsewear.

Welcome to the Forum From what I can see, it is worth 25 cents unless better photos of both sides prove otherwise.

It doesn’t look like a RPM, the mm is too low to be any of the recorded 14 RPM’s. I think what you are seeing damage that has flattened the D and scraped the field. Also do not let the opinion of a few dissuade you from continuing to post. I remember when you first started posting and your knowledge of coins has come a long way since then by asking questions. I for one would never tell someone to stop posting, that is the job of the moderators. If someone doesn’t want to read a post, then either ignore it or block that person. I know that I just ignore opening the posting of a couple of members on this and other sites. Looking forward to see what you have next for us to look at.

Welcome to the forum. As noted, just a damaged dime, probably intentional. Still worth 10 cents, even in that condition.

Total PMD. There is nothing on that coin that could occur while it was being struck in the coining press. It doesn’t really matter how the damage happened, all that matters is that it could not have happened when the coin was minted.

There is nothing wrong with what Sandon stated. He is just trying to help you but you have to help us first. I would have stated almost the same thing if he had not beaten me to it. Posting in the proper forum is the best way to get more eyes on a question, in fact I have asked a moderator to move it to the proper forum. Also posting a clear photo of both sides of some of the coins is the best way for us to see what we are dealing with. Usually any coin with great value has been certified so to find one loose raises questions. You say that NGC values them at $43,000 but don’t forget that those would be certified and high grade. Unless you are able to grade them yourself, then those values would mean nothing. In the coin world, condition is #1. If you are going to require any additional help, then please as Sandon asks, supply a clear photo of both sides of some of the coins you think are valuable and we can go from there.

Not an error. Those are called Die Chips, a part of the minting process and are quite common. They add no value to the coin.

This is a hard one to prove. The seller when when says “unopened” simply has to say it has been unopened by him and has no previous knowledge of anyone opening it before him.

A second area to look at is the bottom of the 3, see how a genuine 3/2 has a bit of extra metal. that is lacking in your coin.

Unless you think that cent is worth about $200.00, then no, it is not worth getting graded. Being less than .5g underweight does not make it collectible.

Does not appear to be a coin, more like a token or medallion. Perhaps someone else can identify it. Also chop marks are almost impossible to identify as there are hundreds if not thousands of different ones out there.

I have seen that rippled effect on a blowtorched cent. You have to keep the torch moving. in order to not melt the copper. It would also be damage, not an error.

Looks like your 2 for 2 Hinkle. Another good find.