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Greenstang

Member: Seasoned Veteran
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Everything posted by Greenstang

  1. You didn’t have to delete the first post, all you had to do was add the reverse picture to that post. Not to worth though, we all screw up up occasionally and you will know for the next time.
  2. That looks like split plate doubling around the top of the letters.
  3. Certainly note the 3 over 2 variety. Just look at the edge to see if it is plated. If the edge looks the same as both sides, then it is plated. If you can see the steel core, it is original.
  4. How is anyone supposed to know this without going through the other posts. It would make more sence to post both of them on the same thread.
  5. Welcome to the Forum] This is the forum for buying/selling coins. I have asked that your post be moved to the "Newbie" Forumm. As far as your quarter goes, it is just a severely damaged coin. That could not have happened when the coin was struck. Also please get in the habit of posting photos of both sides of the coin, even if you do not think it is necessary.
  6. Correct, it is the distance from the leaf. This also applies to 1922, 1926, 1929, 1934 and 1936 years which had the Near Far varieties.
  7. It is just damage. The fact that you say the coin is bent verifies that.
  8. Please explain “retained strike through”. Is this a new type of error
  9. Depends on whether you are looking to sell it or keep it. Sell- yes. Keep- no.
  10. Correct, it is a Far Date. Nice find. I usually just go by the distance between the 3 and 2. If the distance is equal, it is a Near Date, if the 2 is closer to the 3, it is a Far Date.
  11. I agree. Just a regular 1990 business strike. What makes you think it is a proof?
  12. It is neither a Struck THROUGH or a Broadstruck that I can see. To show if it is rotated, take a photo in front of a mirror so we can see both sides at once.
  13. Just something on the coin, whatever it is, it didn’t happen when the cent was struck. Also as Coinbuf no red, do NOT use screen shots, they are too pixilated to see small detail.
  14. No, that is a Close AM. In the future, include a complete photo of the coin. There are other and better markers in telling the difference between a CAM and WAM . Also do not use screen shots, they are too pixilated to see fine detail.
  15. Welcome to the forum To get a coin graded, it should have a value of at least $150.00 to make it worthwhile. Just because a coin is beautiful, it does not make it valuable. What you have without seeing them would probably make good album fillers. If you would like to post a clear photo of both sides of the coins we might be able to help you further.
  16. You’re right, the last one is just damage. The first one is a MAD, not an off centre strike.
  17. Let us know how you made out. Post the results on the end of this forum.
  18. Nothing really to think about. It is just a regular 1982D copper Large Date that had hundreds of millions minted. Worth 1 cent in that condition.
  19. Welcome to the forum Why would you want a common quarter to be graded. It would cost you about $55-60.00 to grade. Getting coins graded without the proper knowledge is a great way to lose money. There were over 860 million D mintmark produced and with the condition of yours with the damage isn’t worth much more than face value. Unless a coin is worth at least $150- 200.00, it is not worth the cost of grading.
  20. According to Numista, there were 244,800,00 minted, more than any others year in tha t series.
  21. What type of error do you think that may be. All I see is a die chip between even the last column and the F. Always show a complete photo of both sides of the coin along with a 10X closeup of your area of concern. Your closeup is way too magnified to get a good perspective of any problem.
  22. Just poor plating of the copper to the zinc cores. Not uncommon on zincoins and not considered an error or adds any value.