Lancek

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About Lancek

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  1. I love my world coins. My wife loves anything German or Egyptian. So I buy a lot of those to keep her from getting mad about all the other ones. Right now I'm big into New Zealand. The older 3p 6p shilling and florin have varied designs. With things that are very unique to that country. Tomorrow I should be getting a package of 20+ worlds that I got at an online auction. I pulled some pics of them from the auctioneers site. The three legged design on the back of the Isle of Man coin made me laugh. It's called a triskeles.
  2. Lancek

    Too minor, not recognized?

    I'm not really concerned about the value. I plan to keep the coin. I didn't really send it in for the grade. More so for the encapsulation. And to see if it really was a mint error. I just thought it would be cool to have a label that said it. Seems lame to pay extra for an experts opinion, then not get any opinion.
  3. Lancek

    Too minor, not recognized?

    Here's what the coin should look like.
  4. I sent a 1840 Germany/Nassau 6 Kruezer in to NGC. When I first got it I thought it had some dirt or other on it. But the more I looked at it, the more I felt it was raised metal and part of the coin. Possibly some sort of mint error. I don't know much about the different types. I was going to my coin dealer for some supplies, so I showed it to him. He agreed that is was likely done at the mint. I checked "Mint Error" on the submission form. When it came back the sticker with it said "too minor, not recognized." The "C" shaped inclusion (I think that's the right word) starts as a thin line on top of and too the right of the lions head. Widens into a thicker blob as it curves down across his face and chest. Then narrows again but ends as a big blob across his junk. For a while I thought it was his junk. And the German coin designers had been very generous. So does "two minor" mean the inclusion wasn't big enough to count? Cause I've seen attributed errors that were way smaller than that. I'm assuming NGC didn't think it was PMD. Otherwise it wouldn't have come back "Unc". It did get a details grade, but that was for cleaned, not damaged. I'm hoping for some input from people who have more experience with mint errors. Is this error something that they should have recognized? Should I fight back a little with NGC? Or is that just the way it is and I should let it go? Thanks, Lance
  5. Lancek

    Grading estimate?

    I really like it. Even if it wouldn't grade out as high as I had hoped. The details are great. And the toning really makes the design pop.
  6. Research auctioneers in your area. You see a lot of estates with coin collections. They don't always have a lot of foreign coins. But if they do you can usually pick them up for a very reasonable price. Lot's of our service members brought coins home as souvenirs. Many of those have hit the market as WW2 vets die off. As a new collector I stumbled on a bag of over 50 German coins. From the 20s to the mid 40s. I think I spent $15. Nothing real valuable. But my wife and I had a lot of fun researching them. Auction zip is a good place to search for sales in your area.
  7. Lancek

    Israeli coins

    I don't know much about researching and reading dates either. But I knew I had some and dug them out. When I bought them someone else had done all the research and written it on the flip. Top one is a 1/2 Lira. Mine is a 1965, but it looks like they used that design from '63 to '80. Second is a 1 Lira. I don't have one of those but they used that design from '67 to '80. Third is a 10 Arogot. They used that same basic design from '60 to '80.
  8. Lancek

    Grading estimate?

    Unfortunately I'm not very good at determining luster on toned coins. But that's why I'm here, to learn.
  9. I bought a 1917 Standing Lib type 1 at an auction last week. It is an auction I sometimes drive to. But with subzero temps, I bid from the couch. They always put the coins in cardboard flips and write an estimated grade on it. I've found them to be conservative with their estimates. Sometimes too conservative. They had it listed as XF. From the pics I thought it was better than that. And now that I have it in hand I think it's better than that. But I would love to get a few more opinions. Of course I know it's only an estimate. My feeling is 55. Thanks!
  10. I'm looking to start selling some stuff and weighing my option. I don't have any great need to sell, and I'm not in a hurry. Just hoping to free up some cash for new purchases. I've heard of Great Collections but had never been on their site until today. I was pleasantly surprised to see a 5% commission. I've looked all over Heritage's site but I don't see commission rates listed. I'm guessing it depends a lot on what kind of inventory I bring to the table. I would be a very small fish in their very large pond. Maybe $5k total, with a dozen coins valued at $100 to $750. All certified. Anybody got a rough idea what their commission might be? I've checked with local auctioneers and they range from 10-25%. A lot of what I want to sell is rare date or older foreign stuff. I live in a mostly rural area. Not much market for foreign stuff here. I feel like HA's size might be an advantage for foreign coins. I do have one online/onsite auction house I am considering. I've been following them for a while but have never bought anything. Their onsite bidders always want to spend way more than me. Which is a good thing when selling. Most stuff goes for retail or more. They have at least one auction a week and always draw a good crowd. They charge 10%. The big advantage with them is raw coins sell well too. I was pretty sure that was the direction I was going to go. Until I saw GC's 5%. Of course I can use my Ebay account. But I really don't feel like taking all the pics, dealing with all the messaging back and forth, and having to ship everything individually. Coin Marketplace on here would have some of those same drawbacks. Anyway, I'd appreciate any input. Lance
  11. Lancek

    1972 d penny error

    Well, when it comes to coins, I trust the experienced people on here way more than you. Die breaks, chips and inclusions have to take some form. Sometimes they randomly look like something else. A zero, an "s", a "z" a lighting bolt. Sometimes clouds look like bunnies but that doesn't mean they are bunnies. I saw an old lady on Johnny Carson. She had spent her lifetime collecting potato chips that looked like something. Presidents, numbers, animals. But that doesn't mean someone was sneaking into the potato chip factory at night and creating Nixon shaped chips. It's one of my favorite episodes. Ed distracts her and when she turns away, Johnny reaches under his desk and pulls out a different potato chip and eats it. When she hears the crunch she turns back and thinks he ate one of her prized collections. I thought she was going to have a heart attack.
  12. Lancek

    Chinese auction fakes

    Ok, maybe "all" was too strong of a word. But in my buying decision, ratings and reviews are a factor. I'm not going to buy simply because someone has great ratings or reviews. But I am likely to not buy if they have bad ones. Or are a new seller with only a few reviews. I might buy graded coins from them. As long as it was from one of the big three. But I wouldn't buy raw. That's one of the reasons I've gotten a lot of my coins graded. If I ever do sell on Ebay, I want to establish my creds with verified coins first.