Forest City

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  1. Just wondering if NGC is aware that the verify scans/photos are very dark for recent submissions. When I look up a coin like this: https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/4656620-023/64/ I can see almost nothing at all. Is this done on purpose?
  2. I read the article about these Sunday in Coin World and thought "ho hum". Then I read this thread and checked ebay and figured I better check around. 20+ locations in my city are sold out. Except one in a bad neighborhood that has a "small box" left. I befriended an employee at 3 AM who gave me 2 free loose ones. Then today I bought 10 Big Macs to get 5 tokens (mix and match 2 for 5). I could not make a set, so I got 5 1998-2008 as they are supposedly the "rarest". Thinking about going back for more...should I? Usually prices on stuff like this is huge off the bat and then drops. I see prices have already moved on the 1998-2008 from 30ish to 20ish. Should we assume they will continue to drop, or is this different because it is Mcdonalds with a lot of collector interest and most are sold out already? How many were there, aprox 3 million? To sell or hold. Sell or hold. BTW the normal price for a Big Mac at this location is 4.49. what a rip-off. You can get a similar sandwich for 2 or less dollars. That extra half of a bun and special sauce is not worth 2.50.
  3. I think you'll be just fine. Can you imagine how many worse mistakes have been made on these forms?
  4. Just wanted to update this thread. I put some dip on a q-tip and rubbed most of the spot and surrounding dark toning off, about 95 percent. It looked much better. But then that area was too light compared to the rest of the coin, so I gave the whole thing a dip. Thankfully, it didn't hurt the luster. I rinsed it and let it sit out for a few weeks, obverse down. The reverse started toning nicely (thankfully) and when it started getting a bit deeper I tucked it away and sent it to NGC. I just got my grades and it went from MS 64 to MS 67 (I was right about the technical grade sans spot). Here's a photo of the reverse, it almost looks like a different coin. I'm happy. But it easily could have gone wrong, so don't take this as a lesson to try this at home. I would guess most coins won't respond the same way this one did, there was luck involved. NGC conservation did a wonderful job with another of my coins, and they should be used if in any doubt. I have some other comments about recent grades but will save those for another thread.
  5. This coin is in an MS 64 NGC holder (circa 2001-2003). Technically, outside of the spot, it's an MS 67. My question is does the spot (or is it corrosion?) look like something NGC conservation can help? And just for fun, do you think their net grading on it was fair or too harsh or not harsh enough (could have been bodybagged at the time?) Seeking all opinions.
  6. Bill, your grading system reminds me of the old NCI grading by James Halperin, which is quantifiable. His system is: Obverse: Rate Surface Preservation, Strike, Luster, and Eye-Appeal from 1 to 5. Surface preservation is multiplied by 2. Add them up. 5-10.49 is 60 10.5 to 12.49 is 61 12.5 to 13.99 is 62 14 to 16.99 is 63 17 to 18.99 is 64 19 to 20.99 is 65 21 to 21.49 is 66 22.5 to 25 is 67 (that was the top grade at the time) This system has some flaws. I don't think strike should be given the same weight as luster for instance. I figure with eye-appeal, if you assign a grade to a coin on my chart, it may move up or down 1 point due to eye-appeal, but not more than 1 point either way. Generally I find most coins can be explained by just the two variables luster and contact.
  7. I made this diagram for my writings in my Peruvian Dinero set, but I felt it had general application to all coin series so wanted to post it here. Essentially, it shows the relation of luster on one axis. and contact on the other. to a coins grade. The lower the grade, the more possible variability. Whereas an MS 67 coin will almost always have full luster (possibly slightly subdued by toning) with only very minor non-focal contact, an MS 63 may have no contact but only decent luster, or it may have full blazing luster, but lots of (but not extreme) contact. Or it may be inbetween these two extremes: having slightly above average luster, and moderate contact. Yes, I realize that strike and eye appeal also play a roll; but it would seem these only move a coin up or down infrequently, and only after you take the big two: luster and contact into account. I'm curious for any comments. If you like the diagram and find it helpful. Or if you think I errored in my assessment of current standards, I'd love constructive criticism. I hadn't seen a chart like this before, so I don't believe there is anything similar, but I could be wrong.
  8. Congrats on your win physics! Your PL set is very impressive. (And congrats also to Mohawk, who was posting while I was typing!) I was heartened to see the work I put into my Peruvian Dinero set paid off with NGC deeming it the "Best World" set for 2017. Congrats to all those who won and also to those who didn't but put time and effort into making the NGC registry an informative viewing experience.
  9. I think prices for Peru coins remain fairly low (in my view) because not many are putting together high end sets due to the either 1. Difficulty or 2. Impossibility depending on the series. (And prices for Peru at the Whittier sale were absolutely rock bottom for many high quality coins). Even though 2006 seems recent, it was just the beginning of world coins being slabbed. It seems the slab market started picking up steam around 2010 . And even by type, prices sometimes remain low. I paid 320 for my 1886 Cuzco Dinero in MS 62, a one year branch mint type coin. This is better than either the Whittier or Lissner coins, which were not mint state. It's tied for top with one other coin. It's needed for type sets. 320 seems pretty low. Given, there may be more out there in Unc, there probably are. But I've never seen another raw Unc or even close. They are tucked away in Peru if they are out there. If there were only two known Unc examples of a US Carson City dime, it would bring 50-100k. Of course, I agree with you that the US prices are highly inflated. And I think that Peru and L.A. coins have a lot of room to move. Yet, doesn't help that most collectors in their home countries don't care much about a holder or grade and will settle for a nice AU.
  10. Sorry to dig up an old post. But I was just reading this and wanted to say that even after years of studying Peru coins, I am still shocked at how low prices were in the Whittier sale. For most Peru coins in the sale, perhaps 75 percent of them, the average price today has doubled or more. Some of the lots of raw coins did exceptionally poorly. I finally got my hand on the physical catalog for Whittier and I was surprised that every Whittier Peru coin I own is photographed, so that wasn't the problem. But regardless of prices, it was a landmark sale. On the other hand, prices were very strong for 1826-1856 Peru in the Lissner sale. Less so for the 1858-presentm but still better than Whittier.
  11. You may want to try some of these sites, which congregate dealers together: vcoins ma-shops delcampe Atlas has nice stuff, but most is well overpriced. World Numismatics tend towards fairer prices, but their inventory isn't as strong as I would expect for being a major Latin American player. A lot of the market is simply ebay and Heritage, Stacks, and Sedwick these days. Be sure to check numisbids to search for LA coins on lesser known auction sites. Also see wcsdeals.com As far as I can tell Civitas inventory rarely turns over.
  12. I'm just curious if anyone shares my frustration at viewing coins at shows under fluorescent lighting. The luster on coins looks very dull, and it's hard to tell what they will look like when I get them home. Yes, I realize that most dealers have halogen lamps over their cases. For some reason though, even when I hold a coin under these lamps, the overall ambient lighting still gets in my way. Does anyone else feel the same or am I alone on this, just curious? This is mainly an issue with high end coins. Mid-grade and lower coins aren't really effected.
  13. They changed back, you can have PCGS coins in custom sets now, old or newly added.
  14. What a neat medal. I don't collect medals, but that one is exceptional. I'm a bit of a geography/map freak.
  15. Are these new and improved images just for the paid images, or are the very-low-quality certification verification images also going to be improving? Those have historically been so bad it isn't even funny. Good question. NGC images on the Price Guide and elsewhere are stellar. But the scans (I wouldn't call them photos) of the slabs for verification purposes are utter garbage. PCGS has NGC beat easily in that one category. I would love to see an improvement there. It would seem not hard to at least make them *better* if not great. I'm not sure what you mean when you say PCGS has us beat in slab verification images. They don't do imaging of coins in slabs at all, while we have imaged nearly every coin we've graded since mid-2008. We have literally imaged millions of coins for verification purposes. Those images have also recently been improved, as all the cameras (not scanners) used to take them were also upgraded this year. Paul I guess in a way I'm comparing apples and oranges, but maybe not quite. I'm comparing the photos of the coins PCGS grades with the gold shield to the NGC verification photos. I realize that not all coins graded at PCGS have the gold shield, and thus a photo. However, I'm told it only costs 5 dollars extra, and a shocking number of low value coins I collect come with the shield. I have a hard time believing sometimes that the collectors/dealers who are sending in a 40 dollar coin are paying that extra 5 dollars every time. If NGC had the option of a high end photo for 5 extra dollars with grading, I'd pay it for many of my coins, because of the excellent quality photos Paul is producing. I'm not saying his photos are only worth 5 dollars each, but that is what the competition is at. I have specifically gone after many coins photoed on the Price Guide just because I like having the plate coin with the amazing photo.