Fiddlehead

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About Fiddlehead

  • Boards Title
    Learning the Ropes
  1. That is refreshing in this day and age. Good for you not taking it either personally or seriously.
  2. My understanding, and experience has been that items that cannot be proved to have been delivered after a reasonable amount of time will be refunded by the seller and if they don't pay, Ebay will pay the buyer and get the money from the seller the hard way. Sellers need to use insurance. I certainly do when I sell anything worth enough to worry about. DUK
  3. Yes, I just discovered this when i obtained a PCGS coin and thought I'd try to add it to my collection manager - expecting not to have that option - but was pleasantly surprised that the registry does accept them and values them. Good to know DUK
  4. One of the few real uses of price guides is the relative value between issues. For example, if an 1840 quarter was valued at X and and 1840-O quarter at Y, the relationship between them would be useful when buying or selling one or the other. Otherwise, within each issue it's sooooo subjective. Usually the price guides, all of them, are way over market, but there are cases where a coin that is superior to most of those available for one reason or another, or in cases where demand is way higher than supply - that the guides are way off to the down side. But in relative terms, issue to issue, they seem to be more accurate than not. For what that's worth. DUK
  5. Yes - I'm sure - I usually don't ask about CAC for lower cost coins - I should have mentioned that my experience in that rehlm is primarily regarding pieces in the $1000 to $10,000 range - where for me CAC is both more useful and more relevant as I don't have enough experience or expertise to wing it all that much.
  6. I've found that some, maybe I hope most, of the dealers I buy from are honest about whether or not a certain coin - or most or all of their coins - have been sent to CAC. I always ask! It's remarkable to me how many dealers are honest about it and say, yes, they submitted this coin and it didn't sticker - and others who acknowledge that they send nearly everything they have to CAC - or that they never submit to CAC - and in those cases you don't have to ask - you know right off what the circumstance is. I find this very helpful when I'm trying to decide about a particular coin - and I tend to trust the dealers who I believe are honest about it. Sometimes I will buy coins knowing they didn't sticker and sometimes I buy them knowing I might have a chance of getting a sticker. I've had pretty luck both ways.
  7. You can buy outdated but still very useful versions of photoshop elements for cheap. It worked for me.
  8. Thanks for asking. "swingfiddle", but nothing for sale this month - I open my Ebay store now and then and sell things in bunches. I usually sell things when my collection changes direction, or my priorities change. No bunches right now but I did sell quite a few things the last few months. My collecting interests are Type One Double Eagles, gold coins from the year 1840 and sometimes Carson City Gold. I also collect and sell antique pocket knives and musical instruments. I don't know why, but with pocket knives there's less incentive to open a store on Ebay because the final value fee is only discounted 1% (9% instead of 10%) whereas the final value fee for coins through a store account is only 6%. Why the difference, I don't know? Doesn't make any sense to me. But it is what it is. DUK
  9. Oh, one other thing - You'll notice that the bidding increments are higher in Heritage auctions than on Ebay. That has an impact on bidding strategy - As an item crosses the $2000 range and the bidding increment goes to $200 (if I remember correctly) it can become "whoever gets to the reasonable price first" kind of thing. Bidders in the live component can make one half-bid, which changes the dynamic some. So this is important to know if you're interested in items in the $2,000 plus range. The bidding increments get higher as the bid gets higher - as they do on Ebay, but I believe the increments are smaller on Ebay across the board. DUK
  10. I've sold some really nice coins on Ebay. I describe them well and the purchasers seem to like them. I usually accept returns on vintage stuff, but I've had very few returns. I have an over 800 positive feedback rating - 100% Many of the coins I've sold on Ebay are in the $3,000 to $4,000 range. So, I have to take some exception to the Ebay blame game. I'm not a dealer, I'm a collector and selling on Ebay allows me to sell at a fair price and gives me moment to moment control of the situation - even some ability to negotiate. I have bought good stuff on Ebay and Heritage. I've never sold anything on Heritage - but I can guarantee that unless you have a special arrangement with Heritage, the item you sell is going to have at least 7% higher sales overhead that someone is going to pay. That might be worth it, but I'm not sure. When you have an Ebay store it costs about 10% to sell a coin - paypal fees included! versus 17% on Heritage - and there's always a shipping fee. It also takes a week to two weeks to get your item(s). I like Heritage - I love their archives - but remember - there are no returns, you have to pay a shipping fee and there's a limit on credit card/paypal purchases. Above a certain amount you have to send a check or do a bank transfer. With Ebay there are returns and you can use paypal or credit cards for way larger purchases. So, I think folks should stop dumping on Ebay. If you find something you like on Ebay and the seller has a good reputation, check their feedback and contact them if you have questions - then you should ok. With Heritage you may need to have someone to represent you in the live auction - and in that case you need to add another 5%. It really depends on how well you know what you're buying and how much it costs, i.e., what level of risk you're taking - and if you're willing to accept a strict no return policy.