JTO

JKK got it.  The coin looks funny to me but remember the hubs for the 1921 Morgan were engraved anew because the old hubs had been discarded.  As a result the 1921 never looks like a real Morgan to me (flat stars...)  The only reason to fake a 1921 Morgan would be to do so in sufficient quantity to take advantage of the increased spot price of silver.  So the weight is the key.  If you are in the situation where you can't remove it from the holder just place a genuine Morgan of any year in a similar grade on the scale with an empty 2X2.  Weigh the genuine and then this coin and compare.  If you don't have a scale you can set up a balance.  Usually if it is fake it will be light so the side of the homemade balance that has the fake will rise.

Good luck,

John

Dear Ali, 

I would love to see the 18th century world (mostly Europe) silver coins have competitive sets.  Such as the France ECU Example 3479130-009.  I have a collection of Dollar sized coins from arround the world to illustrate the origin of the Dollar.  Other examples are the Thaler's from multiple countries and city-states.

Hoping,

John

Although not for Lincoln cents there have obviously been over-dates after 1909. Specifically the two that occurred in 1918, the 1918 over 17-D nickel and the 1918 over 17-S quarter.  That said I agree with Coinbuf and my best guess is that this is and example of grease strike through error.  I have a great Lincoln 197 -D with no trace of the last digit, so only 3 numbers with the D below.  I like it because when you say it, the D fills in the sound of 1970, but what year is it?  Who knows.  How much is it worth?  Not much... to anyone but me. 

That is, without question, not a genuine number on the slab.  The font is incorrect and the sharpness of focus is clearly sharper than the bar code below. This could be a seller protecting their NGC number on, say e-bay, prior to sale (but why not just white out the number and the bar code) or a counterfeit (albeit a poor one) or something in between.  If you are being offered the coin for your purchase, get a real number first, unless you know the dealer and they have a valid return policy.  With the certification number enter it and the grade into the NGC web site and you should see a photo of the coin in the slab (if is within the period of that label.)  To enter the certification number to check its validity: 1 go to the NGC registry homepage and look at the upper banner.  Click on "Resources" and a drop down menu will appear. 2 Click on Verify NGC Certification.  This will open a new page with a space to enter BOTH the certification number and the numerical grade of the coin.  I agree with coinsandmedals Hmmmm....  Looks like a scam to me.  Just my opinion.

To the NGC staff and family,

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I will rejoin the registry.  As Mark Salzberg said when creating the NGC registry, he like most collectors have a mix of NGC and PCGS coins in their collections.  If you buy the coin and not the holder that is the way it should be.  I have not participated in the PCGS registry to any degree because they do not allow NGC coins.  When NGC followed suit I stayed with it for a while but progressively lost interest.  As someone who has a number of world coins, as a secondary collection to my U.S., NGC, in my opinion,  is far superior at grading non-U.S. coins.  So thank you to NGC for being the better sport and service.

John