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  1. Since it does not go thru the "T" it is not a die crack. It is a die gouge from polishing the die. Note, it is only in the field which is the top of the die.
  2. Back when I didn't know any better I would put mercury on pennies. Looks just like that. I didn't die so i guess I just lost a few brain cells.
  3. Also consider that crossover coins do not get removed unless the person sends them the old cert from in the holder. NGC returns them to you with your newly graded coins, but I doubt anyone sends them back. So the numbers will never be correct especially on ones with lower certification quantities. Probably would not make that much difference on ones with large quantities.
  4. the clad would be 5.67 grams and silver proofs would be 6.25 grams so it isnt a silver proof, also does not look it anyway
  5. and i thought i was the only one who bought mint bags of the p and d
  6. all common dates. the worn ones are worth 19-25 the nicer ones are about 28-30. that is what they sell for, probably not what you could get. the nicest one it the 1921 which is the most common of the bunch.
  7. My guess is a counting machine roller mark. Looks like the lines are equally spaced and go across the portrait.
  8. 3676422-016 is listed as a "P" in your database. It is actually and "S". please look at the photo. thanks John
  9. It might be residue from a holder it was in. Right near the top of your photo it appears to thin to almost nothing. If were a clad it would be in the center and pretty even all the way around. Also there were no clad nickel planchets and it is definately not struck on a quarter or dime.
  10. I'll throw my two cents in. I would not be buying 100oz bars. I bought 4 of them before the big run up last time. I had a hard time selling them. Problem is, I paid 600 for them but when silver went over 40 it was real hard to find someone to give you 4000. I did sell 2. I think 15 is a pretty good price, near bottom. However If the economy stays perking along silver wont rise much if any. Look at it this way, there have been 2 big runups since the 70s, so 20 or so years apart. Next one will come but might be ten years out. Also you mentioned EBAY. I would not buy any silver bars from EBAY. The major bullion sellers are priced pretty competitive. I use JMBullion and have bought from others. Too many fake large bars out there. Get burned on one for alot of money is just not worth it.
  11. Go to vamworld and look at the vams by date. There are a ton of s/s vams. However that is not the only thing the you are looking for. Most of the s/s also have some doubling on the date. So wade down thru the s/s and look at the other diagnostics. If you find one dioagnostic that does not fit then its not that one. You will need a loop so you can look more closely. Some of the date doubling is hard to see.
  12. OK, first off all morgans are VAMs. A VAM is just a recognized die pair. Also die cracks do not make a VAM unless they have a die displacement or large cud. Displacement is where one side has sunk. There are many many Morgans with die cracks some dates more than others. The 1921 seems to have alot of them. If a Morgan does not fall into one of the known die pairs it is usually called a VAM 2.
  13. You might be looking at pvc contamination. Most proof coins do not get hazy, they might tarnish. The ike dollars were bad about this from the holder they were put in from the mint. If your coins are form that era its probable. Search for articles on pvc removal and what it looks like.
  14. I like that design. I have a few myself. Sorry by I stink at grading gold coins.