jgenn

On 2/17/2022 at 12:09 PM, Ali E. said:

Hello, Teddy.

Thanks for your interest. If you are logged in and go to add a coin, there is a drop-down menu where you can choose the status of the coin. There is a WANT option you can click on.

 

Also, "Want" coins are only visible to the set owner. Thank you.

"Want" coins are visible to others that look at your custom set including pictures and comments.  It can be used as a way to show coins that you have but have not sent in for certification (especially if you have a rare or scarce coin that you know would not get a straight grade)..

This is not a genuine issue from the Mexico City mint -- the historical record shows that the assayers (identified by their initials) were not employed for that function during that date.  Forgers make dies from copies of obverses and reverses and will sometimes use mismatched pairs to generate their fake coins.  Do not be fooled if you can determine that the coin is a silver alloy.  Unless you can determine that it is 90% silver, you can be certain that it is a forgery, likely made for trade with Asia for its bullion value.  If you are interested in more details I suggest you buy the book by Robert Gurney "Counterfeit Portrait Eight-Reales: The Un-real Reales (Counterfeit Eight-Reales)"

No, you don't want too much egalitarianism in coin collecting as in the example of Antonin Prokop.  (I would have preferred to link to my source but that does not appear to be on the internet anymore)

The only quirk to this is that the "View Coin" button is not available for the "Want" coins on your main set listing page.  However, the photo button will take you to the individual coin page.  Fortunately, the gallery view will show these slots with photos and notes.

My raw coin in custom set example: https://coins.www.collectors-society.com/WCM/CoinView.aspx?sc=684092

When you add a coin to a custom set you can select "Want" instead of "Own" and fill that new slot with images and notes for your raw coin.  I plan to do that for several new crowns that I've picked up but haven't yet sent in for certification.

All I can contribute are these pictures

The 80% concept works in the other direction too.  The least valuable 20% of the collection will be the hardest to sell for anything like what it cost to acquire.  Please consider just donating those to a coin club with young numismatists.

I should add that a nice appearance is beneficial to details graded coins.  You will never get the value of a problem free coin but some folks like to buy attractive details coins when they can't afford a graded one.  Of course, even an ugly gold coin is worth it's bullion value.

You will know the value of your coin when you find someone to buy it.  Until then, you can estimate the value based on the recent sales of G$1 1849 Open Wreath AU details as shown in auction results on eBay, Stack's Bowers, Heritage etc.

On 9/10/2019 at 10:56 PM, Conder101 said:

So is the labor to make them.  That was one reason why in the early US Mint the mint encouraged depositors to take larger coins rather than the smaller denominations.  It took 5 times as much labor to make a dollars worth of dimes than a dollars worth of half dollars.  When you are using muscle power to swing the press it makes a difference.

So when did this extend to dollars? My understanding, from a quote by John L Riddle, melter and refiner at the New Orleans mint, in his "Monograph of the Silver Dollar, Good and Bad", 1845, was that "The policy of our government has been to issue a great preponderance of halves, and the smaller denominations of coins, under the impression that they would be less likely to be exported from the country."

I have a few holes left in my Colonial Mexico City 8 reales sets that are very scarce to rare varieties that I would fill with any grade level and would not exclude "details" coins.   It all depends on what series you are trying to complete.

Like most Americans, my ancestors arrived from other shores.  One Grandmother is Swedish -- although she arrived well after this coin was minted.

The underlying reason contributes to why there were mostly trade dollars vs trade 1/2 dollars or trade 1/4 dollars.  It may be the same amount of precious metal but the labor to count or assay is 2x or 4x, respectively.

I just bought my copy.  Probably should have bought it sooner but better late than never, eh?

You might consider a visit to local coin shows to talk to dealers or look at setting up a table to sell your inventory.  If you are near any of the cities that host the bigger coin shows, that would be a way to meet dealers that might buy large lots.

It's kinda hard to answer without knowing how much you know about the coin business and how much of your own time you want to invest to get the best value out of your inheritance and how quickly you want or need to sell.  Did the coin shop keep any books or an inventory on paper or in a digital spreadsheet?  If not, then first place to start is to generate that catalog.  If you don't know how to estimate the value of what you have, you should probably start by hiring a professional to do the estimate.  With an estimate in hand, you can then start talking with coin dealers about buying bulk lots. 

Your iPhone photos using the macro lens are quite good.  What brand is the macro lens?  I have the Moment telephoto lens for my iPhone and I know they also have a macro lens.

Thank you Ali and the rest of the registry team for removing this slot per your PM!

Please remove the slot in the Charles III, 8 Reales, Pillar Type (1760-1771), Circulation Issue, registry set for 1760/59MO MM "CAROLUS III/FERDIN VI", Coin ID 148675.  Although it is listed in the KP Standard Coins of the World under KM# 105, I do not believe it actually exists.  It is not listed in the primary references for this type (Calbeto, Elizondo, Gilboy). The Isaac Rudman collection did not have one, there are no examples in either the NGC census or PCGS census and I haven't found any auction results. Mike Dunigan did not know of an example when I spoke with him at the USMex convention last year.  I understand that NGC will review certain varieties and remove them from registry set listings if they are too difficult to acquire and I believe this one is impossible to acquire.

The first that I remember was a steel cent for my Whitman folder, quiet a few decades ago, from a coin shop that had a display case with shelves that you could rotate with a push of a button.  That coin, including the folder, was given to a potential young numismatic many years ago.  The coin that got me back into collection was this one:

They are of significance because they are a die identifier and a diagnostic of the die state which may be of interest to collectors of certain coins.  For the great majority of coins, it will not add value.  Hopefully, you can enjoy its relative uniqueness, compared to the rest of the population, without caring about whether it has any extra value.