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About James_OldeTowne

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    St. Louis, MO

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  1. James_OldeTowne

    A problem with CAC.

    Why is it so important to (seemingly) everyone to own coins that must fall in the top 10% (or whatever the A/B is supposed to mean) of the grade? While I don't believe it's wise to pursue the worst-for-the-grade coins for one's collection, I am generally quite happy collecting decent, pleasing quality coins for my set(s).
  2. James_OldeTowne

    Newest Nickel

    I thought the same thing - juiced. That being said, I own two collections of toned Jefferson nickels (one complete, one in progress), and some of mine are not terribly far off that image.
  3. James_OldeTowne

    How many nickels are in a 63 pound group?

    After you find your 150th 1937 with no D it won't be as much fun. I scooped a sample. The dates ran all over from a dateless shield nickel up though a couple of early-1940s Jeffersons. I didn't seen any particular concentration of dates. Yes, I did scoop from the BOTTOM of the pile .
  4. James_OldeTowne

    Newbee needs help/advise on a coin

    Is it a die clash? It looks more like someone took two normal dimes, stacked them and hammered them, thus faking a "clashed die".
  5. James_OldeTowne

    Is this "CAC" thing a load of *spoon* or what?

    There is no such thing as a "right" or "wrong" grade, because a grade is not objective. It's an opinion.
  6. James_OldeTowne

    possible overstrike

    Nice repunched date!
  7. James_OldeTowne

    Graders use microscope when grade coins?

    A microscope, or at least a high-powered magnifier, can help immensely in authenticating a coin, for example, to look for an added mintmark. But high magnification is useless for grading. ALL coins look horrible under strong magnification, since tiny, unimportant surface anomalies can look like huge, gaping craters.
  8. James_OldeTowne

    Worth the Money? 1907 Saint MS64

    It seems about typical, going only by the photos. You paid an appropriate price for it.
  9. James_OldeTowne

    Reholdering Copper Coins

    I completely agree with Bill Jones. Older copper with fully "red" surfaces are extremely suspect to me. Obviously, many famous pedigreed red large-cents (and half-cents) exist that have been plated numerous times over the years, and one can view the old photos and see that they have retained their vintage red color. But my personal belief and experience has been that over the last 30 years, a huge explosion of fully red copper coins has appeared on the market - large cents, half cents, Indian cents and early wheat cents. How many of them were created from formerly red-brown example? The red-brown surface is substantially more stable than a red surface, particularly a "created" red surface.
  10. I have an opportunity to make an offer on some items from a local estate. One of the items is a box full of nickels, mostly buffalos. The box weighs 65 pounds net, so I'd guess there are 63 pounds of nickels total. How many nickels would that be? Also, I'd guess 80% are buffalo nickels, 10% are Liberty nickels, and 10% are early Jeffersons (I didn't see anything dated after 1942). The point is, they are probably "average circulated" overall, so they might be slightly less than "full weight". Thanks!
  11. James_OldeTowne

    An interesting progression....

    The color looks weird to me. But then again, many Peace dollars in slabs have weird color.
  12. It may not be so easy to "cell" this idea to the general public!
  13. James_OldeTowne

    Can someone educate me on spotting a cleaned coin?

    Trying to use photos to learn about cleaning is just about impossible, especially when so many photos of cleaned coins are taken in such a manner as to intentionally minimize the symptoms of cleaning.
  14. James_OldeTowne

    Is this "CAC" thing a load of *spoon* or what?

    Why is it "important"? Speaking only for myself, I've enjoyed the hobby immensely for 35 years without ever giving a thought to whether or not some given coin would sticker.
  15. James_OldeTowne

    Is this "CAC" thing a load of *spoon* or what?

    I have never priced a coin based on the presence of a CAC sticker (or lack thereof). Many coins that do not have stickers are overpriced, too, right?