coinman1794

After a coin sits in a paper envelope, especially when heat from sunlight is introduced, sulfur from the paper will stick to the coin and cause it to continue to tone, even after you take it out and try to preserve it. If it were mine, I would do an acetone rinse to clean the sulfur off; and then I would have it sealed in a slab or in an intercept holder or other inert storage holder.

The price is lower because more coins have been graded. The market is strong, and Prooflike coins in particular, have been taking off in recent years.

This coin sold for $2000 last time I had it on consignment, but it was a much lower pop back then. I think $1500-$1700 is fair, if the eye appeal is great and the mirrors are really there.

Die erosion and machine doubling. No added value.

Very nice album toning!

That's on both sides. Could be weak strike from misaligned dies.

In this case, it is very hard to get one of these below a 68 and 69s, and 70s are the premium grade. It was probably smart to dress up the non-70 coins up with a special label, as the numerical grade of a non-70 does not affect the price much.

Proof coins with strike-throughs can be valuable, but Mint Set coins are essentially business strikes, so the value of a mint set strike-through, vs a regular business strike strike-through, is the same. However, this half dollar is not worth any premium; this type of strike-through is not collectable. You have to have a distinct object visible in the dent or a large part of the design obliterated, before a strike-through adds value, especially on a modern coin.

Strike is probably not the main problem, unless you have coins that are flat or mushy. The presence or absence of Full Steps certainly has no baring on grade, for example. The services have said in the past that they do not grade with loops, unless they are looking at a perceived problem. The number of marks is less important than the placement and appearance of the marks. An MS67 has to have a certain "look" about it. You can have a coin that's as clean as a 68 that ends up as a 66- because it doesn't have the right luster, or a toning streak that takes away from the eye appeal in some way, etc. You can have a lightly bag marked coin with technical 65 surfaces that grades 66-67 because the luster is out of this world, and the strike is perfect, and the coin has "the look." As others have said, use your submission as a grading set to figure out what they saw that you did not.

These fakes bare little resemblance to the real thing. One obvious problem is that its perfectly round and struck in a collar.

This appears to be damaged, on both sides.

This particular coin was struck through grease, which is why it looks rough, pockmarked, and dull. The 2002 mint set halves tended to be very reflective and semi-Prooflike, accept late die states that developed heavy star-bursting that made the mirrors frosty.

This looks like machine doubling, though it's hard to tell from the pictures at hand.

Clads of the early 1980s were very poorly made. Further, they are quickly deteriorating due to improper storage and die grease coatings. Streaks, spots, and corrosion are the norm. Every year, fewer of these supposedly hiding coins will qualify for high grades.