Just Bob

Wow. That could get pricey.

This. 
 
You gave the reasons to choose the half cent yourself. Coinbuf just confirmed them. 
Here is what you wrote:
"Finding good, choice-surface coins with luster can be very tough.  Many coins in AU-MS holders still have micro-granularity or other surface issues." All the more reason to jump on this one, if it meets your criteria for your set.
" It may be easier to find the proof Mercury later (although low mintage), than a choice 1807 half cent." Another good reason to choose the half cent now, and look for the dime later.

This. 
 
You gave the reasons to choose the half cent yourself. Coinbuf just confirmed them. 
Here is what you wrote:
"Finding good, choice-surface coins with luster can be very tough.  Many coins in AU-MS holders still have micro-granularity or other surface issues." All the more reason to jump on this one, if it meets your criteria for your set.
" It may be easier to find the proof Mercury later (although low mintage), than a choice 1807 half cent." Another good reason to choose the half cent now, and look for the dime later.

This. 
 
You gave the reasons to choose the half cent yourself. Coinbuf just confirmed them. 
Here is what you wrote:
"Finding good, choice-surface coins with luster can be very tough.  Many coins in AU-MS holders still have micro-granularity or other surface issues." All the more reason to jump on this one, if it meets your criteria for your set.
" It may be easier to find the proof Mercury later (although low mintage), than a choice 1807 half cent." Another good reason to choose the half cent now, and look for the dime later.

But, only in the Eastern time zone. 

Judging by that beard, you have some wild hairs coming out of you, too. 

But, only in the Eastern time zone. 

But, only in the Eastern time zone. 

But, only in the Eastern time zone. 

29 mm pages
Canadian quarter albums are at the bottom of this page

But, only in the Eastern time zone. 

I filled the final hole in my Carson City Morgan Dollar set today - 1889!
 
 

Before I comment on the '66 and '67 sets, I have to ask:  "Are these the sellers pics, or are they your sets?" You fooled both Kurt and me into commenting on the seller's pics of the '65 set. I'm not going to fall for that again.

Years ago, NGC would put T for toned and W for white on the slab.
That sentence should have had quotation marks, but, I was too lazy to add them.

Years ago, NGC would put T for toned and W for white on the slab.
That sentence should have had quotation marks, but, I was too lazy to add them.

Years ago, NGC would put T for toned and W for white on the slab.
That sentence should have had quotation marks, but, I was too lazy to add them.

Years ago, NGC would put T for toned and W for white on the slab.
That sentence should have had quotation marks, but, I was too lazy to add them.

Years ago, NGC would put T for toned and W for white on the slab.
That sentence should have had quotation marks, but, I was too lazy to add them.

@Conder101 may have more information about this company. He collects and catalogs slabs and holders from all of the different grading companies.

@Conder101 may have more information about this company. He collects and catalogs slabs and holders from all of the different grading companies.

I only pointed out the most obvious (and easiest to check) discrepancy I found on his coin. I did not want to give too much info, just in case his story was bogus.
His response to my message that his coin looked fake:
heaosb9689:
Please elaborate. The coin is part of an extensive collection that came from an avid and knowledgeable coin collector. All of his coins have been legitimate to date.     My response: Beginning with the Flying Eagle cents of 1856, the mint started putting the letters around the rim of the obverse (United States of America) on the master die, rather on individual dies. This means that every coin minted a particular year looks the same, as far as placement of the lettering. Comparing your coin to a good picture of a cent from 1877 will show you how much the lettering is off on your coin. It could not possibly have come from the US mint.                   His response:  
 
Thank you for the input, I am looking into that right now. The coin was included in the personal collection of an avid and knowledgeable collector who's passion was US 1 Cent coins. The man literally had well over 1000 pennies. I have taken many of the coins to local dealers and have had no negative information as far as authenticity at all. When I researched the coins in his complete Flying eagle and Indian head book, I realized that this is a key date and would sell for more individually.

Now that I have some information I will definitely take a look and if it is not what it is supposed to be, I will end the auction. Thank you again for the details.  
 
 
The listing has been removed.
Thanks for the heads-up, Powermad. 

That is not a BB-256. It is also not a real dollar. 
I am amazed that you would think that members of a coin chat board would be ignorant about coins.

No, but corrosion and damage could cause it to look like two different mint marks. You wouldn't believe some of the things that get posted on here with damage that looks like a letter or number.

Probably not. The most likely explanation is that something has reacted with the copper to turn it that color. Do you have access to scales? Determining an accurate weight, to one-hundredths of a gram, would be the first step.

I despise the CNN site because of all of the clickbait, so I hope I can find another news site that reports on the box opening tomorrow.