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Showing most liked content since 09/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Radical thought, how about look at the coin, evaluate it's condition, and price it accordingly. Collectors and dealers evaluated and priced coins for close to two thousand years before the TPG's came along to tell us what they think their grades are.
  2. 2 points
    India 1877 1/2 Anna - Original Proof 63 BN
  3. 1 point
    leeg

    1921 Alabama Half Dollar

    Sold this coin in 2008 to a Forum Member. I asked to have first shot if it came available. Much to my surprise, the owner contacted me and asked if I wanted to back, I said "H_ LL Yes! Here is the image that Mark Goodman took: Alabama half dollar ‘Plain.’ On December 23, 1921 the mint struck 54,030 plain coins. Reserved pieces included 28 for Annual Assay and 2 for Special Assay. 5,000 returned to the Mint for melting. Designed and modeled by Laura Gardin Fraser and distributed by the Alabama Centennial Commission. Approved by Congress on May 10, 1920 and issued to commemorate the one hundredth anniversary of the admission of the State of Alabama into the Union. Design: Obverse: Depicts two Alabama governors: Wyatt Bibb (1819) and Thomas Kilby (1919). The 2x2 and 22 stars reflect Alabama as the 22nd State in the Union, the X between the 22 refers to the red St. Andrew’s cross on the state flag. Saint Andrew was the patron saint of Scotland. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA is seen on the top, with IN GOD WE TRUST below. HALF DOLLAR is seen on the bottom. BIBB – KILBY is seen above. Reverse: Depicts an eagle perched on a horizontal shield with arrows in its talons and a ribbon in its beak. The ribbon states the motto ‘HERE WE REST’. At the top is STATE OF ALABAMA with the dates. Thanks Ty
  4. 1 point
    Why would you attempt a crossover anyway? Why spend money to make the coin worth less money? NGC did you a huge favor. For the right buyer, the PCGS OGH and CAC combination can lead to irrational exuberance and a premium. It would be worth less in the NGC holder even if it restickered.
  5. 1 point
    These are Medals not coins. A whole different animal than coins. Medals aren't as popular as coins. So Medals have a much smaller following and smaller demand so they don't bring as much money as U.S. coins. Most modern medals I see don't bring premiums close to U.S. coins when they have similar mintage's, so even though they have a mintage of 50,000 that may be considered high for a Medal.
  6. 1 point
    jtryka

    Post Your Most Recent Acquisition

    Picked these up from the post office today, the first is an upgrade from a F to a VF, the second was not an upgrade based on the slab grade, but I think it's a nicer coin than my current VF.
  7. 1 point
    wheat'swheats

    For the love of copper

    Now wood grain lincolns are nice I have a few. That 1918 is a sweet cent
  8. 1 point
    Thank you for the help and insight Matt! I just upgraded.
  9. 1 point
    It is the second lowest proof, third if you want to count the 2011 Reverse Proof that was only part of the anniversary set: (1995-W Proof) 30,125 (2011-P Reverse Proof ) 99,882 (2017-S Proof) 125,000
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    The household limit was lifted sometime yesterday; I believe around noon EST. The set probably would have lingered for a few more days at (2) per household otherwise.... Honestly, I'm surprised the mint lifted the HH limit- would have probably pushed the price down further in the secondary market otherwise, and established equilibrium sooner with true market value if there is such a thing: that is, assuming more "collectors" went to the site to purchase LE set. Maybe there was concern perhaps with disappointing the other target market, "dealers." As you noted, some dealers were paying others that lacked interest in the LE, $40 plus shipping per set- at least, that's what I read ATS. Also, low mintage perceived rarity sellouts are probably good headlines for the mint- not delivering on scarcity may be embarrassing if that's your motive. The U.S. mints sales model may be striking a balance between "dealers," and "collectors." Not to get too conspiratorial..... As far as my thoughts on the 2017-S ASE priced at $139- IDK, probably more realistic at $100-$125. The proof set mintage's appear to be on a downward trend, in general, over the past five years plus. So, to purchase the ASE along with the other silver coins in the series makes more sense to me, than alone in a cheesy card board teaser.
  12. 1 point
    "Sellout" as 'Expected' "Total Mintage of the 2017 'S' now stands at 125,000 pieces > 2nd Lowest of the American Silver Eagles. Bottom Line for the 2017 'S' { $139.95}
  13. 1 point
    Probably an older bag put together back in the late 70's early 80's. Someone had a bunch of AUish 1938 quarters worth say $6 to $8 each. Then silver jumped and now they will melt at $12, 30 to 50% more than you had been able to get when you could find someone that needed one. And the silver buyer will take the all at once. Off they went and they got dumped into a 90% bag. It could be really amazing what went into bags back then. And often buyers had no time to even look the stuff over. Melt had outpaced coin values so much that things which today we would think are uncomprendable were common place. I knew one dealer that sent 300 bags of MS 1883 O dollars to the smelter. Sounds crazy, but before the silver boom they were 15 each and how long would it take to move 300,000 of them? But the smelter was paying close to $50 each and he'd take them all. So it was $4.5 million over a long period, or a check for $15 million tomorrow. Bye bye dollars.
  14. 1 point
    Chris B

    RMW Collection

    I consistently get reminded (by NGC) that grading mint state coins is not a skill that I possess. 64 looks doable to me. The strike is much better than some others that I have seen.
  15. 1 point
    leeg

    Post Your Most Recent Acquisition

    I have a birthday this month. I like to buy a coin during October as a gift to me. Sold this coin in 2008 to a board member. Buyer gave me first shot to repurchase, I did. PCGS AU55 OGH. It would be tough to find a more colorful example.
  16. 1 point
    t-arc

    Raw 1936 Buffalo Arrived Today

    this has such a nice look to it that calling it “satin finish proof like” is not unreasonable!
  17. 1 point
    BillJones

    outrageous auction fees

    The fact that the auction houses need to acknowledge is that every time they raise the buyers' fees, the bids will go down unless that the market for item offered goes up. The lower the bids, the less money there will be available for everyone. Yes, a few bidders seem to ignore the buyers' fee, but most don't. They lower their bids.
  18. 1 point
    Just added this piece to my "Wildman" custom set. The last few months have been good for this set.
  19. 1 point
    Conder101

    Inherited coin collection

    First, don't try and clean your coins. Second, the cardboard holders (they are called 2X2's) are probably fine for your storage right now. If you determine there is something rare with a lot of value to it then you can revisit that later. Third, at first I would concentrate on cataloging and identifying what you have. Then you can worry about grading and pricing. As far as grading that is a skill that takes some time and study to learn. There are books that can help teach it to you but that will just give you the basics, like any skill it takes practice to become proficient and a lot of practice to really become good at it. (If you have a local library you can probably borrow the books there.) The books are all pretty much geared toward US coins, but the principles can then be applied to other coin. Fourth, price guides both printed and online are just that, GUIDES. And often you have no way to really know how outdated the pricing information is, so even on the most recent guides the prices should just be considered a "ballpark" figure. Often recent prices on ebay for more common items are the most accurate. (For SOLD items not just the auctions or completed auctions. People can ask whatever they want, and an auction that ends without a sale is meaningless. You want to look at the listings that actually sold.) As far as insurance goes, unless the coins are really valuable (High figures or more.) it probably isn't worthwhile to pursue. If you insist on insuring then, you will want to join the ANA and then look at insuring the coins through Hugh Wood ins. They do provide ANA members with excellent rates, they understand collectible coins and have easy to follow guidelines. Insurance through a private insurer or your home owners insurance (Which will require a special rider on the policy. Typically without the special rider they won't cover more than $200 worth.) will be MUCH more expensive and they will have all kinds of hoops to jump through and special requirements that have to be met. It is probably more of a "what you collect" focus. Age or silver content is not what makes a coin valuable. It is the condition of the coin and the number of collectors that desire it for their collection. IF a lot of collectors want the coin and there aren't enough of them to go around the the price goes up Supply and demand. If you have a LOT of demand and just a small supply prices can be high and the coin can be valuable in even poor condition. If the supply is higher then the lower condition coins may not have much value but the really top grade pieces may. If you have a very large supply then prices are low pretty much no matter what. Rarity, or a very low supply does NOT always mean a high price. If there aren't many collectors interested in the coin the value will be low. If you have an item where there are only 10 pieces known, but only five collectors, and an item that has 10,000 available but 50,000 collectors, that item with only 10 known is most likely going to be a lot cheaper than the one with 10,000 available.
  20. 1 point
    RMW, Gary, Alan, and Tom, I guess we are all still here. Just hanging out in the shadows waiting for someone to turn on some lights. I have no plans to leave NGC but I was thinking that I was only one in a handful that decided to stay around here. The posts seem to be down to 7 or 10 a month. I have a few submissions that need sent in -- nickels, dimes, quarters, halves, and dollars including Commemorative proofs. I usually send in coins that other friends are building sets of. That eases the heavy costs of each 50 coin submission when other collectors purchase a few high graders. Guess I will just need to wait till winter and see what happens here in the club. Thanks for all the swell replies!!!! Rick
  21. 1 point
    rmw

    What a trip!! Any U.S. collectors still here?

    So do I, Rick. I don't know what to say to those who have found it difficult to navigate this site, given what some might think is my own verbal excess here. But the lack of activity here is worrying so I do hope you stick around . The more, the merrier!
  22. 1 point
    Meade --- Nothing against World Collectors --- Glad you joined the conversation. It is just so close to winter and I don't see things getting better around here. You would think that it would be so easy by now after 9 months of the transition to the new format. It's crazy and is actually the only reason I did not renew my membership for submissions. I spent $10K last year on submissions. This year I spent $0. Rick
  23. 1 point
    It's all marketing. Throw a hook out, and you never know when you'll catch an unsuspecting fish.
  24. 1 point
    Nice looking PL '43-S Washie!
  25. 1 point
    coinman_23885

    outrageous auction fees

    It is all a game of semantics, and I think the concept of a buyer's fee is incredibly stupid. It only complicates the math for bidders that may be numerically challenged. We all know that the seller ends up paying the "buyer's fee" in addition to the "seller's fee." Why not state that Heritage charges a 25% commission rate of the hammer price? The end result is the same, and the rates would be just as negotiable as the rates currently are without the smoke and mirrors. Do auction houses really think their consignors are stupid and fail to grasp that by increasing the "buyer's fee," it is a net price hike for consignors?
  26. 1 point
    I'm jealous too! Very nice score. Congrats!
  27. 1 point
    Maybe so, but most people would have to be very familiar with the particular issue to be able to tell the difference in the milling.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    All nice quarters! I particularly like the S.
  30. 1 point
    Very nice score, especially since it made gem!
  31. 1 point
    Nice ones Sy! As always, Bob does justice to them all.
  32. 1 point
    rmpsrpms

    55-D Toned Lincolns

    Over the last few years I've been accumulating BU rolls from various road trips and coin shows. A while back I went through my 55-S rolls, and recently went through my 58-D and am now going through 55-D. Out of about 60 rolls, I found a surprisingly small number of varieties and errors. Only found a handful of RPMs, and a few different BIEs. I still need to look through a bunch of "odd" coins I put aside. In the search, there were a couple Toned rolls. One was obviously a made-up roll of mostly OBW roll end coins. The other was an original roll that had a range of toning, with perhaps half the roll having interesting enough toning to photograph. I started today on the first few coins, and will publish these and the rest as I find time. I'm using a True Gray background to ensure the coins are presented in their true color, and consistent brightness. It's pretty easy to mess up color and brightness when you don't carry a reference along with the coin, but with the True Gray background it's much easier. This is important for Toned Cents because they have such a wide range of color and brightness.
  33. 1 point
    Nice "B" album toners SkyMan. The 1952 D is quite attractive- thanks for sharing!
  34. 1 point
    I received back this 1974-D Kennedy Half, a few days ago, from NGC that I posted raw earlier this year. Thanks!
  35. 1 point
    Nice additions. The posts of your coin finds of quarters and halves for your A & B Dansco collections have been fun to watch.
  36. 1 point
    I prefer the previous enlarged obverse image on the rollover feature. The larger image was usually clear enough to determine if I wanted to click on the coin and take closer look or move on to the next.
  37. 1 point
    Don't be too hard on him. We all have learn, and sometimes you pay tuition with your mistakes. The important thing is to learn from your mistakes.
  38. 1 point
    david3142

    Post Your Most Recent Acquisition

    Another new one:
  39. 1 point
    david3142

    Post Your Most Recent Acquisition

    Here are a couple of new ones for me:
  40. 1 point
    As always, the highlight of your report is seeing Penny!
  41. 1 point
    It's certainly true that a large part of the motivation for most coin purchases is often for profit. And this is EXACTLY why success feeds success so readily in coin collecting. Once someone thinks that he might make a substantial profit on a coin he doesn't care if the coin if a Coronet $10 gold or a three cent nickel. Indeed, future collectors would even consider copper nickel clad for profit. Current collectors not only wouldn't buy clad because they believe it can't go up but also wouldn't want to sully their hands dealing in clad. If clad starts increasing there will likely be a piling on just as has always been typical in this hobby.
  42. 1 point
    Without the potential for profit, coin collecting returns to its base existence as a means to alleviate idleness and as an academic pursuit. This latter state of coin collecting is the foundation, upon which the former was constructed. It is also the more sustainable of the two, and will likely abide for many, many years to come. I was attracted to coin collecting by both of these states, to alleviate boredom and also as a means to save money. While the latter meant I would not save as much money has I would have via other investments, I have never been satisfied with the sterile accumulation of money. I am presently in the process of selling my collection of coins and bank notes. I do not expect to make a profit on either, but the entertainment I received collecting them has provided more than adequate compensation.
  43. 1 point
    jtryka

    Post Your Most Recent Acquisition

    Picked this one up on Saturday at the Grand Rapids Coin Club Show, I believe it's an O-115a.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I phrased that poorly. What I meant to convey was that among the more advanced collectors most of us are older. There were many millions of young new collectors when I was a boy just as there are now. Of course newbies don't attend coin shows just like as has always been the case. My point was chiefly that the young people might be less prepared to own "all" the coins than they were in the '50's and '60's since the aggregate value of all coins is many multiples of the aggregate value of the coins in those days. Inflation has increased ten fold but the value of all coins has increased fifty fold. Let's just say it's been a good 70 years! The number of boomers who collect today is pretty high since we are collecting later in life and we are such an enormous demographic. But in few areas is this demographic more profound than in coin collecting whether seen in terms of numbers or in terms of the total value of the coins we own compared to the total value of coins owned by other age groups in this country. Like everything numismatics requires a lifetime to acquire significant expertise. Older people will always have some advantages and prominence over younger people in most walks of life. They'll always have had more time to have acquired, knowledge, wisdom, wealth, and coins. They might always be more visible in coin collecting though there was a time when this current crop of oldsters were quite visible as beginners because there were so many of us.