Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 2 points
    EZ_E

    The Honor of US Coin Collectors

    Hello, Boardsters! It has literally been years since I've posted but I wanted to share with you what has become sure and strong in my heart. In my 52 years, I have never found such honor, morality nor integrity anywhere such as I experienced with my years in this forum. I've never found it in the church, the workplace, my neighbors nor my friends. The absolute only place that I've found men and the occasional woman to hold such standards have been here, on the NGC Coin Forums. I've been honored to have been friends with the likes of Mark Hooten, Mark Feld, Michael Luck, Tom Bush, Douglas McIndoe and so many countless others. Nearly all posters, without exception, in my experience, have been the salt of the earth. I've digested this fact and have come through the process of persuasion that this is so. Just think: I once sent Coinman1794 $50,000 in coins and another time, $25,000 in coin consignments only on our word and our trust in one another. Where else can you find such integrity? Only here if my experience matters at all. I give my respect and admiration to you one and all! p.s. To the Moderator: please allow this post to remain here because it most certainly does not apply to the watercooler personnel. It belongs among those who I am honoring. Thank you. To stay on topic, here is my former coin with the perfect circulated commem patina.
  3. 2 points
    I posted on this subject previously, long ago, but feel that it bears repeating… There can be many different reasons why someone doesn’t like a coin – marks in the wrong place, toning that doesn’t please the eye, strike issues, luster issues, etc. However, over a period of many years, I have noticed that many collectors and dealers confuse not liking a coin with feeling that it’s over-graded. The two are far from necessarily one and the same. Prior to becoming a grader, when looking at coins to purchase, if I didn’t like them, I simply skipped to the next one and had no need to assign a grade or even articulate why I didn’t like them. However, when I was a grader, one of the most difficult tasks I faced was placing a fair/accurate grade on coins that I didn’t like. After all, I couldn’t just place them back in the box and skip to the next one, without providing a grading opinion. Next time you see a graded coin that you don’t like, if you feel up to it, ask yourself why you don’t like it and consider that regardless of the reason, it might not be over-graded. It's perfectly OK to not like an accurately graded coin.
  4. 2 points
    JKK

    Left too me not sure what too do with them

    There are two I would single out a bit, though just a bit. The 44-P is about 35% silver (melt value right now about $0.87) and is not a major collectible but is definitely worth more than five cents. The Buff looks to be in quite nice shape and is probably worth slightly more than the 44-P for that reason. I can't tell the level of wear from the photo, but I can't see a lot; if there were nearly none, values up to and exceeding $10 could be possible. Three of the rest look like fine coins but of common dates, might be worth a quarter, might not. The 1939 seems in rather decent shape, probably isn't worth a quarter. Total value for the lot, if someone offered you $3 for them, that would not be unfair based on what can be seen in the pic. They're yours to handle as you choose, but as they were left to you, I'd suggest giving them to a young person in the family who might be interested in old coins. That's how a lot of us here became collectors. A coin that's sixty years old seems ancient to a child (kind of as does a person). There'd be a Buff and a silver nickel to learn about, some nearly uncirculated pieces to protect from damage, and so on.
  5. 2 points
    Given this is now a U.S. And World forum - it might be interesting to discuss what the attraction is of your (favorite) series that you collect. I'll start with pre 1933 sovereigns - I consider sovereigns as the dominant gold coin in the world during the height of the British Empire. I enjoy the history and designs of the modern (1817-1933) sovereigns. Sovereigns were produced at seven different mints in five countries during that timeframe. The sovereigns are collectible in many ways including by Monarch, Date, Mint, reverse (shield or St. George) just to name a few. There are plenty of varieties to collect. Rarity ranges from very common to extremely rare. Depending on the series or sub-series, you can either easily complete it or it can be very challenging.
  6. 2 points
    LINCOLNMAN

    Old(er) Gold

    Continuation of a familiar topic: Heritage Auction last night. $660 for a very decent-looking 1900 $10 in 62. That includes buyer's fee. So, $59 over melt gets you a neat, graded gold coin over 100 years old. I've started a Liberty type set in lower MS grades. Not my focal area but what the heck.
  7. 2 points
    Just Bob

    amount of pennys produced

    Welcome to the forum. You should purchase a "Red Book" - The Guide Book of United States Coins. It gives mintage numbers. as well as other facts and figures. If you just want some quick answers, look at NGC's Coin Explorer. You can click this link HERE
  8. 2 points
    My number one series is pillar minors generically with a focus on Lima, Potosi and Guatemala. Most I own are from Lima because the coins as a mint are quite a bit more common than Guatemala and Potosi only lasted for four years versus 21. I don't collect Mexico minors much because this mint is a lot more common (across the grade distribution) than all other mints, even Lima. I don't own many 8R due to a combination of cost and scarcity. Pillar dollars are concurrently usually a lot more common than other denominations but more expensive, except for the 4R. There are more nicer Mexico 1/2R than pillar dollars in AU or MS from what I have seen but not absolutely. As to why I chose it: One: It is my favorite design of any coin or series. Two: It is one of the most difficult to complete, whether in high quality or otherwise. Completing any mint/denomination combination (Mexico included) in high quality under current exacting US standards is an absolute impossibility. The Rudman collection of Mexico pillars auctioned by Heritage a few years ago was almost complete even including die varieties but many of the coins were "details" graded or in average condition. Completing Potosi is doable up to higher circulated grades (probably an XF) but maybe not higher. I have never seen most of these coins in high quality (AU or better). I have never heard of anyone ever completing the four denominations from either Guatemala or Lima. Patterson never did so (and he did try) and if the ANS collection includes the Norweb coins, they didn't either though I 'm not sure it was a high priority. I doubt anyone has done so for over a century but if it did happen, not remotely in a quality that hardly any US collectors would accept.
  9. 2 points
    A few more pictures from JKCoins Middlesex Globe Series DH 139 from eBay, ex: Spink auction 4/85 ex: Wayne Anderson Middlesex Kempson's Buildings and Gates Series DH 67 from Coin Kingdom Middlesex Kempson's Buildings and Gates Series DH 83 from DNW auction 6/2017 Middlesex National Series DH 201 from Jerry Bobbe ex: R. C. Bell plate coin
  10. 2 points
    leeg

    For the love of copper

    Some nice lookers above!!
  11. 2 points
    Here are a few others I have in my collection: 1892 NGC MS64 CAC 1894 NGC MS64 (never been to CAC) 1897 PCGS MS65 (never been to CAC) 1899 NGC MS64 Gold CAC 1903-S PCGS MS64 CAC 1904 PCGS MS63 (never been to CAC) 1905-S PCGS MS64 (never been to CAC) And here's a better shot of my 1896-S showing a more accurate representation of the color
  12. 2 points
    After reading part 2, I still have more questions than answers. And, while a new discussion is a positive development, I personally don’t care for some of the dismissals made by the author, who claimed he did not want to speculate. The authors spend a good bit of time discussing the gap in $1 denomination Continental notes between 1776 and 1778, as Newman made this the focus of his theories on the Continental dollar. They point out that Newman claimed the intentional gap was done to make way for a circulating pewter dollar coin. The authors shoot this down by saying the Congress printed equal numbers of each denomination of notes, at each printing, and that if they stopped printing dollars for that reason, they would have had to strike over 1 million pewter dollars to make up the gap. Therefore, this can’t be the case. Then the authors go a step further to claim the Congress was closely monitoring the need for currency and the real reason for the gap was that they judged that no dollar notes were needed in these years. These two explanations by the authors are directly at odds. Further, if no notes were needed, that would have been the perfect time to experiment with a coinage, because there would be no reason to try to strike a million pieces. It could also have been done as a sample coinage presented to the Congress by an engraver. Perhaps the June 26, 1776 and December 26th, 1776 newspaper descriptions of a base-medal, dollar-sized coin are evidence that some experimentation; official or otherwise; was underway (even if it never made full, large scale production), and these first-hand accounts were not merely a rumor that "adds nothing to our pursuit.” The paper currency was worth very little, and so too would a pewter dollar have been. I cannot imagine it would have been a popular coin and I have never understood how it could have been accepted as money at a time when merchants cared how much copper was in their halfpennies. The idea of it being used to replace 12-14 coppers is interesting, but probably unwieldy. This could explain its lack of wide production and circulation, if it really was made for the Congress. Further, the Robert Morris prototype of 1783 could have been a Continental dollar, with further trials struck in brass copper and pewter. Copies could also have been made by others. A general problem I have is that the E.G. designer’s initials don’t appear on all dies, and I think too much emphasis is placed on finding a single manufacturer. The Continental dollar issue is eerily reminiscent of 18th century patriotic medals produced by multiple die sinkers of limited engraving talent. Often a popular medal was produced to celebrate an occasion, and then copy cats made their own versions. Some engravers signed their work, others did not. This happened a good bit with Vernon medals, for instance. There are some very crudely made Continental dollars, and there are some nicer ones, and some with initials, some without. They could have been made in 1776 and again in 1783. Overall, however, I find the Continental dollars, even the nicest ones in existence, to be extremely low quality in engraving. If these were sold as medals, the quality was extremely bad. It is also unusual to see a milled edge on something not intended as money. They certainly do not compare to the work of Gauldet. Based on his featured 1767 medal, he had actual engraving talent, none of which is seen on the Continental dollars. They could just as easily be private patterns of a coinage that went nowhere; either in 1776 or 1783; and then copycats could have made more to fill popular demand from collectors. Overall, the bulk of information presented is equality as circumstantial as the information covered by past authors. Personally, I doubt the Continental dollars were widely known or well distributed, if they were official issues, and I think it likely that they could have been either patterns or medals, and that multiple manufacturers were involved. They were a failed experiment or a crudely produced medal. Yet, they were definitely produced between 1776 and 1783, and I still find them quite fascinating; but clearly, more research needs to be done, on at least two continents.
  13. 2 points
    Here's my most recent purchase:
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Ungraded 1946 East African 1 shilling, just love the coin style with the lion and all! I Think it's a cool coin in pretty darn good shape better grade or possibly AU with nice detail and definition! How about you? Get graded, or not worth it? Any thoughts? Capone1929
  16. 2 points
    Victor, Your assessment on honor and trust here in this club is spot on!!! A week ago I sold 7 MS69 SMS 2008 state quarters for $3300. My wife was in the truck when I dropped them into the post office for delivery. She asked me if I got paid for them yet and I replied "no the check is in the mail". She then laughed at me and told me I was crazy. That afternoon the mail came and I waved the check at her. No --- I'm not crazy --- It is a build of trust over the years that you won't find anywhere else. Thanks for this post!! Rick
  17. 1 point
    JIM F.

    An offer made

    I'd take it quick, before the buyer sobered up.
  18. 1 point
    coinman1794

    The Honor of US Coin Collectors

    I don't know how I missed this post. Thank you, Vic! Does this mean your coming back to collecting too
  19. 1 point
    Thank you for your post. NGC authenticates and grades the quality of coins but we need them in hand to make a proper assessment. Some of our seasoned members may be able to provide you with advice or insight.
  20. 1 point
    CAG preserves the provenance of collectibles tied to prominent people, such as the first person to walk on the moon. Click Here to Read More
  21. 1 point
    I decided to get a couple. Order completed at 11:00 AM Pacific Time, after wasting time and finally discovering that using Mozilla browser will not allow checkout to continue (just stops with no path forward). Chat button is dead in both Mozilla and IE browser. Well, what can one expect, but at least I was able to accomplish the task. So if anyone wants any, they are available as of this posting.
  22. 1 point
    To my knowledge, the 2R is quite rare or very rare in any grade and the 1R also rare for the later dates. The 1824 I have seen in high quality quite a few times and isn't really that hard to buy. The half real, even more though I recall some dates as being much scarcer than others. Most of the 8R seem to be available often enough in MS though not to the quality standards of US collectors for comparable contemporary coinage. The 1/2E and 1E are also relatively available at least as type coins. The 2E, 4E and 8E are scarce to very rare. The Mexico Hand on Book 4E is quite scarce and many date/MM combinations are certainly rare by US standards. The now defunct website Mexican Coin Magic included a series of articles on most or all of the Mexican Republic denominations. The article for the 4E claimed it was the scarcest denomination. It probably is absolutely but in reviewing the NGC data recently, it listed 51 MS-60 or better for the entire series (less than or equal to six for any one coin). This versus 33 for the 4R. Both series are essentially impossible to complete whether by date, date/MM or date/MM/assayer but much easier to buy as type coins in better grades recently versus when I first became aware of these coins. I don't look often for the 4E but it wasn't until 2011 that I saw more than a miniscule number for the 4R in better grades. It is now a lot easier to buy though I still see it only occasionally.
  23. 1 point
    Zebo

    NGC photo

    Here ya go
  24. 1 point
    Thanks Matt! Wow, I was able to help out the almighty NGC!
  25. 1 point
    Very nice strike and luster Bob.......